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59 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, I got the engine back into the beetle. This is what all I did while it was out.
Front trans seal (01m auto)
was leaking profusly
Rear main seal engine (2.0 AEG)
All new studs in the exhaust flange.
New timing belt H2O pump and tensioner.
Went to a couple local wrecking yards and scavanged a few odds and end bolts and other little parts that the previous owner or mechanic deemed unecessary.
New engine mount bolts.
New plugs-wires-coil.
Fixed a bunch of other little things I can't remember right now.
Got it all back togehter filled the fluids and it ran great for about a week.
As I have stated before in other posts the car had trans issues among other things whan I bought.
After a couple fluid fitler changes the trans works acceptable for now. The only issue it has is sometimes when I slow in traffic or when coming to a yield sign it acts like it is not all the way into 2nd gear. When I try to accerate the car will shudder violently. This only happens on a rare occasion.
Well yesterday I was coming to a yield sign and slowed to about 5 mphs. Stepped on the gas and it shook pretty hard.
From that point on the car misses and pops and loses power and stalls. I almost did not make it home.
Put in the shop today and started looking around.
Pulled the fuel sender/pump unit. Screen was clean and the pumps fills a litre in about 20secs.
I used a little switch I had made up and ran the pump via the #28 fuse.
Checked for vacuum leaks and found a couple small ones. fixed those.
Car just acts like it is running out of fuel, however I don't believe this to be the case.
I have no fuel pressure tester.
I have no scan tool either, so I don't know what codes there might be. I really need to get one.
You think that hard shake broke the crank position sensor?
Any ideas?
What would be a good scan tool to buy?

59 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to mention that the car will sometimes free rev like it should with no issues and other times it pops and backfires and just carrys on like it out of fuel or almost like it is out of time.
Also I looked at the fuel pump relay and it does not have the number "409" on it. It had the number "167" on it. I think it is the original as the yellow paint from the factory is exact on the fuse and the block.
I jumped the coil on the relay and I could read through the N-O side with the ohm meter.
Did not change the fuel filter yet. But from the flow I got out the feed line at the regulator I don't think it is plugged up.

59 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I did some sensor testing today in my shop on some different sensors and here are the results.
Tests are performed according to Bentley manual.

Engine speed sensor:
Check resistance between pins 2-3
Bentley says there should be between 480 - 1000 ohms.
my results are: OL (0 ohms) / .909 K-ohms ( K-ohms is the only setting I could get a reading on the multimeter. Bentley only states to test for Ohms.)
Tested the sensor
According to Bentley this sensor is no good.

IAT sensor (intake air temp.):
Check resistance between pins 1-3
Bentley graph says for the temp of 13deg.C/56deg.F intake air temp. resistance should read between 3.0 - 3.8 K-ohms
my results are: 3.09 k-ohms.
Tested the sensor.
Accordingly to Bentley this sensor is working within specs.
Sensor was off car at time of testing. Temp reference was ambient air in shop. I think they wanted it on the car running but it states to unplug the connector and perform the test. I don't see what the difference would be doing it on the bench.
Anyway I cleaned it and put it back.

Camshaft position sensor:
Check for voltage between pins 1-3
Bentley says there should be a min. of 4.5 volts
my results are 4.9 volts
Tested the plug that connects to the sensor from the harness with the key in the on position.
According to Bentley I have the correct voltage.

I could find no resistance tests to make on the sensor itself to see if the sensor was bad.
Any one know if there is a test.
I did make resistance tests on between the pins.
results were:
pins 1-3 OL
pins 1-2 OL
pins 2-3 0 ohms / 4.64 M-ohms / OL K-ohms
I think I am going to buy the Maxscan VAG405
Where is the best place to buy the Engine speed sensor?
Any thing else I shoild check?

59 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I think I read somewhere that the Engine speed sensor gives the tach it's signal. My tach still works. If the engine speed sensor is bad should the tach not work either?
Is it necessary to remove cam sprocket to replace the cam sensor. I don't suppose you can ge to it by removing the upper intake and the plastic backside of the upper timing cover?

59 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Ok, upon further reasearch I found that you can test the cam pos. sensor by checking the voltage on pin no. 2 while rotating the engine slowly by hand.
I made 3 small jumper wires about 3 in. long Stripped them about 1/4" on each end and shoved them into the plug on the wiring harness. Then I use three small alligator clip jumpers from the pins in the sensor plug to the short wires on the plug. Hooked my volt meter to the center wire and unplugged the power to the coil pack. rotated the engine slowly and watched the meter. went from .61 M-volts to 10.98 volts. So I guess my Cam pos. sensor checks out ok.
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