NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok,

I know that numerous people have asked about replacing the timing belt, and it always comes down to if you are brave and have the mechanical ability you should be able to tackle it and save lots of money.

Well it is time for my new timing belt at 75k, it has a nice groove worn in the center of it on the outside where the words VW/Audi are. I have no idea what that would be from but it doesn't look good. I know that I have the mechanical ability to do this, I do all of my maint. on our cars. But this time it is much more important to do it right, hence the nervousness.

My questions are:

1.) Why is it so hard to align the timing back up? I know why it is important but don't understand how it could be that hard. Can't you mark the pulleys and say the crankcase with white-out or something like that and just make sure the marks line back up when your done?

2.) How much coolant are we talking about that will spill out when I remove the water pump? And is it as simple as just topping it off with my $25.00/gallon pink coolant (I know, ECS has it cheaper) and water?

3.) Are there any special tools required to install/adjust the water pump and or the tensioner?

4.) Is this what I need?

ECS timing belt kit
Pink Coolant
Motor mount stretch bolts

I have the Bentley already.

Lastly, are there any how-to's or pics of someone doing this on the web/forum? I haven't found any yet.

thanks for all of the help!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,319 Posts
jbehm said:
1.) Why is it so hard to align the timing back up? I know why it is important but don't understand how it could be that hard. Can't you mark the pulleys and say the crankcase with white-out or something like that and just make sure the marks line back up when your done?
Yes you can just mark the pulley and the old timing belt then transfer over the marks. That is what I do. Just make sure to Put a T on top to indicate direcetion and where the top is.

2.) How much coolant are we talking about that will spill out when I remove the water pump? And is it as simple as just topping it off with my $25.00/gallon pink coolant (I know, ECS has it cheaper) and water?
We purchased two containers and a couple gallons of distilled water. So that we could flush out the system a bit.


3.) Are there any special tools required to install/adjust the water pump and or the tensioner?
Yes for the 2.0 you need the tensioner tool. ECS has one for sale at a reasonable cost.


4.) Is this what I need?

ECS timing belt kit
Pink Coolant
Motor mount stretch bolts

I have the Bentley already.
Besides the afore mentioned tool you will also need a variety of extensions.

Lastly, are there any how-to's or pics of someone doing this on the web/forum? I haven't found any yet.
I haven't found any either .. I was going to but we got so involved with doing the timing belt that I totally forgot about taking any pics. :(

Thanks for all the help!
You are very welcome :)
 

·
2008 "Fowvay" yellow NB
Joined
·
574 Posts
I think the 2.0 is easier than the 1.8t. I have no idea what the difference is but I think it's supposed to be a bit easier. Tom at ECS told me that it is well documented on the Vortex. (that "other" VW forum ;) ) I didn't have time to look before we did mine though.

Sounds like you are right on what your doing. You shouldn't have any unusual problems. It will take time I think.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the quick help guys. I guess I am still a little confused on the coolant. Fowvay, how did you flush it out? I have also read of air being trapped in the system. Is this a common problem or one that I need to be concerned about?
 

·
180 Degrees out of faze
Joined
·
841 Posts
Air can be trapped in the system. One way to "burp" the system is to remove the temperature sensor when filling the tank. It will let the air out while filling.
If you pick the lowest hose and remove one end, most of the coolant will drain out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Great, my confidence level is rising. I have emailed ECS about the tensioner tool and the camshaft moving tool since I couldn't find them on their site. Any other places to get those?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,793 Posts
1) I used the white-out method, wasn't hard at all, just a tight fit.

2) drain the coolant from the radiator and the temp sensor first. At 75K you should probably just flush your whole coolant system. Yes, 1/2 vw coolant; 1/2 distilled water, tap water will corode your block.

3) nope.

4) yep.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
noR,

You say "nope" for my question on special tools. So what did you use to adjust the tensioner and turn the engine to TDC?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well,

I am gettting close to ordering the kit, especially after the dealer quoted me $850 today for parts and labor.

Another question for you guys. Can I mix the G12 coolant ECS sells with my authentic VW/Audi G12 since I have about a full gallon already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,793 Posts
I didn't turn anything, just let it stay in place. Nothin' moved a bit on me; you milage may vary. I used whiteout (4+ dots per pulley in fact) to mark my places. Transferred the dots, counted and recounted splines, and slipped it on. (just BARELY the edge on each pulley first, then slide it on as you can moving from pulley to pulley; it's not very loose at all)

You can turn the crank w/a big socket if you want though.

And the tensioner is hydrolic; automagically adjusting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I have ordered the timing belt kit, coolant, stretch bolts, new temp sensor, plus some odds and ends. ECS emailed me back and said they do not have a tensioner tool. I am wondering if I can make one.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,255 Posts
Fowvay: I bought a bottle of VW G12 and it is purble. A tech bulletin says this is just fine and it can be mixed with the pink. Do you agree?
 

·
strange things are afoot
Joined
·
1,535 Posts
Duffy said:
Fowvay: I bought a bottle of VW G12 and it is purble. A tech bulletin says this is just fine and it can be mixed with the pink. Do you agree?
I'm Not Fowvay, but I did stay at a holiday inn express last night :lol:

to answer your question:

yes, the new formulation of G12 is Purple and does mix with the old pink stuff. Enjoy :)
 

·
a.k.a. porkchopzz4
Joined
·
890 Posts
The tensioner tool at metalnerd says it was designed for the TDI, but can be used on gas engines too. But it doesn't specify which. To be honest, this thread is the first I've seen that has mentioned a special tool being necessary. I get the impression it is a convenience to make it easier removing/installing the tensioner - not a necessity.

Can anyone who has done a 2.0L engine shed some light on this? I've got all my parts for this job sitting downstairs taunting me. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Porkchop,

I agree that it is more of a convenience tool. It is something that you spend 20 bucks on and it is very helpful but not absolutely necessary. I have found them at germanautoparts.com. They have them for $19.00 and some change. It pretty much looks like a spanner wrench and is placed into two holes in the tensioner to adjust the tension. I think you could probably make one or use a heavy pair of needle nose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
The 2.0 can use 2 types of our tensioner wrenches.
1) The basic, MN1111, also distributed through Adirondack (www.germanautoparts.com) is fine for all 2-hole tensioners, from rabbit to date, including the 2.0
The only limitation of the basic wrench may* be related to re-setting the tension when the motor mounts and such are all reinstalled and you want to tweak your belt tension at 25K miles, the basic is bulky and may not fit in the space inside the motor mount (*I am not sure of the space on a 2.0 after reassembly)
2) The deluxe compact 3-way MN3333, also stocked by Adirondack, was the one specially developed for reaching inside motor mounts, like the A4 TDI. The MN3333 provides nearly 360° access, even if the tensioner rotates downward. It costs about 2x the price of the MN1111.
Both types have textured pins to prevent slippage - unlike the bicycle wrenches some attempt to use.

To avoid bloodied up knuckles on a TB change, some real tool is suggested for the job.
Chuck
www.metalnerd.com
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top