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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone! My hubby is going to try to replace the timing belt on my APH 1.8t. While he's at it what else should he do:dunno: For about 3 weeks b4 this it would lose power at 3000 rpm.I hope this is why:grovel: Are there any tricks to doing this or little secrets he should know? I want this to go as smooth as possible for him.Thanks Ellen
 

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2008 "Fowvay" yellow NB
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574 Posts
The water pump and timing belt are a do at the same time kinda thing, but I'm betting you knew that already. ECS tuning has an ultimate timing belt kit that includes the belt and water pump and a tensioner and tensioner pulley and a serpentine belt and a thermostat. You'll also need a couple stretch bolts for the motor mount and Pentosin coolant. When we did my car we used that kit and changed all of that stuff except we didn't change the thermostat. It's a tough all day job for amatuers. Good luck.
 

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I'll assure you the timing belt is not why you would lose power at 3K.

No real tips that I can think of that'd make it any easier. Read up on people's stories of their changes, there's some good info sprinkled everywhere. And knowing what your walking into first is worth every penny.
 

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180 Degrees out of faze
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841 Posts
First thing is to get a copy of the Bentley service book. Follow the steps exactly, and you should survive.
The loss of power might be due to a bad/dirty MAF. There is a recall on that. Might save domestic relations by trying that first.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the help. I forgot to tell you that the reason we are changing the belt is because it won't start:( The hubby looked under the hood while I cranked it and said it might be the belt.The day b4 i was driving it with the maf undone to see if it ran better.It didn't.Then she wouldn't start .Man...things go from bad to worse.:crying:Well thanks for helping.I hope we do this soon I really miss driving her.

Ellen
 

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ummm, there wasn't any clanking, banging, knocking, rattling, or other horrendous, ungodly sounds coming from the engine while trying to start it or before the last time you shut it off, were there?

The reason for timing belt replacement is because if the belt skips a tooth, or breaks, you will get collision between the pistons and valves... meaning that you either get lucy and have to replace the valves, or you aren't so lucky and the valves break off and demolish the pistons, cylinder head, and cylinder walls and then you need a whole motor.

Your problem does not sound like a timing belt issue at all. I'm not saying not to replace it, its good insurance against disaster, but its not going to fix whatever problem you're having. It seems to me that you are either having a fuel or spark related issue. Have your husband check the fuel pressure, it should be 45 psi with no vacuum on the regulator. if you don't have fuel pressure, check the fuel pump relay and fuse. If the fuse is ok, then make sure the relay clicks when you turn the ignition on (relays are under the lower dash panel under the steering column).

If the fuel system checks out, than he needs to check the spark plugs for wear/fouling (if he doesn't know what to look for a Haynes manual will have a colored guide of common spark plug conditions). Having a spark tester tool will also help as you can plug it into the coilpack, crank the engine and see if it actually produces spark.

Also be sure to check for exhaust leaks between the first O2 sensor and the exhaust manifold... if the manifold gasket, downpipe gasket, or anything else in that area is leaking, then it will cause the car to run overly rich which will result in a lack of power and if its bad enough can flood the engine so that it won't start. Mine had a pretty decent sized hole in the DP and it flooded once on me before i found it. Also check for broken/leaking vacuum lines, or any leaks between the MAF sensor and the throttle body.
 

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The Flying Englishman
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25 Posts
Scarab: FYI I had a timing belt change done by the dealer and they put the new one on 1 tooth off (at least I'm assuming it was only 1). The car ran and didn't trash the head but it was sluggish and it had lost a lot of power. It also threw a cam position sensor code and a CEL.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #8
Scarab_Beetle said:
ummm, there wasn't any clanking, banging, knocking, rattling, or other horrendous, ungodly sounds coming from the engine while trying to start it or before the last time you shut it off, were there?

The reason for timing belt replacement is because if the belt skips a tooth, or breaks, you will get collision between the pistons and valves... meaning that you either get lucy and have to replace the valves, or you aren't so lucky and the valves break off and demolish the pistons, cylinder head, and cylinder walls and then you need a whole motor.

Your problem does not sound like a timing belt issue at all. I'm not saying not to replace it, its good insurance against disaster, but its not going to fix whatever problem you're having. It seems to me that you are either having a fuel or spark related issue. Have your husband check the fuel pressure, it should be 45 psi with no vacuum on the regulator. if you don't have fuel pressure, check the fuel pump relay and fuse. If the fuse is ok, then make sure the relay clicks when you turn the ignition on (relays are under the lower dash panel under the steering column).

If the fuel system checks out, than he needs to check the spark plugs for wear/fouling (if he doesn't know what to look for a Haynes manual will have a colored guide of common spark plug conditions). Having a spark tester tool will also help as you can plug it into the coilpack, crank the engine and see if it actually produces spark.

Also be sure to check for exhaust leaks between the first O2 sensor and the exhaust manifold... if the manifold gasket, downpipe gasket, or anything else in that area is leaking, then it will cause the car to run overly rich which will result in a lack of power and if its bad enough can flood the engine so that it won't start. Mine had a pretty decent sized hole in the DP and it flooded once on me before i found it. Also check for broken/leaking vacuum lines, or any leaks between the MAF sensor and the throttle body.
The day b4 he was in front of the garage for a wash. Started him up, pulled in turned him off. Nothing out of the ordinary. Next day I went to pull him out for a wax and nothing. Sounded like a whooshing sound, tried 1 more time then left him till hubby came home.I wish someone with a vag-com lived nearby:( John (hubby)says he'll look at him again today.
 

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Old Skool .org Member
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58 Posts
Try this

Hum, "Wooshing sound"?

Cut the wheel to the right, look in the right wheel well at the intercooler hose connections. Sounds like it come off. The car will turn over, but not start if it has popped off.
 

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Premium Member
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11,013 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks I'll have him check it out ( he might have already).He thinks it has something to do with fuel pump.Looking for a fuel pressure gauge to rent or possibly buy if needed.Man, my car has been in the garage for soooo long. I miss it sooo much:(
 

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beetle dad
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first thing i would do is get it scanned to make sure no codes are present. no check eng lights on doesn't always mean no codes.my daughters turbo lost power once starting a knock a little later.no codes. pulled the oil pan and the screen in the oil pan was stopped up with carbon particles. stealership said 1000 dollars. i fixed it for $60 including new gasket syn oil and filter.
 
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