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top fixed, window fixed, turn stalk fixed, cabin air filter replaced, window fixed..

5K views 4 replies 5 participants last post by  scootergal 
#1 ·
I have had my beetle for just about 2 months. 06 New Beetle Convertible. Well first I wanted to change the inside air cabin filter...kinda smelled funny, just not clean! A piece of cake, took me about 15 minutes. Started here then watched a youtube video. OMG was it ever dirty! Mold, Leaves, looked like a rats nest, couldn't see light thru it. Car smells great now! Next the window on passenger side rattled like crazy and was making me even crazier...Took off the inside panel, use a plastic tool to pry, don't worry, it wont break, just sounds like it. Removed the plugs and rolled the window down far enough to see adjustment screws for window, well the one on the right was so loose, I'm surprised my window didn't just fall off. Tightened screws, and yahoo, my sanity is back! Next and most annoying...The convertible roof. I would try to open, and like many others who have this problem, it would freeze about 80% done. Waited 5 or so minutes and it would finish the cycle. The lock on right arm would not lock shut. So after reading many hours of post I ordered the micro switch that fits under the hydraulic arm on right hand side. I took the seats out, and removed the inside panel, you have to adjust the roof up and down to get a good hold on the old part to remove. Well I had to give up on that and get my husband to do it, I just couldn't get it removed, He came to my rescue and did it in about 30 minutes. Yay, now the top goes thru the complete cycle, only one problem, the right latch still wouldn't lock down. I was so p'd off that I ordered a boot hoping it would keep it in place while driving (luckily no alarms were going off) I was getting ready to button everything back up and just live with it, then my husband volunteered to look at it one more time for me. He is my HERO! It was a loose spring on the emergency handle of the locking arm. It wouldn't lock in place to Lock the arm down. Next project is the driver door latch actuator, door doesn't drop that extra inch to clear top and it is has frayed the top material. I glued the top today in that spot with Alleens fabric glue from Walmart, so far so good. I've ordered a turn signal stalk because of the annoying ticking even after the blinkers are turned off. I'm leaving that one to a mechanic since the air bag is involved. There is a youtube video on how to, but I'm not comfortable trying that one, well plus my husband said NO! I'm a 50 year old Grandma, very stubborn and determined to do things myself, and have been able to do most of this by myself with the help of this forum. No scan tool involved...Some may say I'm crazy for that, but all the advice I received here worked. THANK YOU!

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#2 ·
Go for it granny!!!

Glad you are making progress.

The door lock actuators are not too bad, since you make it into the passenger door, you can do the door lock actuator.

You will need at least one pop rivet and a pop rivet tool as I recall.

There are some tricks for the door handle and the plastic rivets that hold the door lock actuator to the inner door panel.

Search my user name here, I have posted some PDF's of the door lock/handle preload spring set up.

Suggest you invest in at least an OBDII smart phone App.

et an OBDII smart phone/tablet App and interface, typically $30 or less. These Apps are usually best for drivability issues and they support Emission Readiness Monitor Status, Freeze Frame and Live/Realtime data. They are also great for Logging data for review after the car has been driven and can really help find usual problems.

Android - Touch Scan for $3.95 and ELM327 OBDII to Bluetooth interface.

iProduct - OBD Fusion for $9.95 and ELM327 OBDII to Wifi interface.
 
#4 ·
Convertible top-down problem - F171 Switch

DDIBugs,thank you for posting your experiences, and congratulations on your repair successes! Very helpful info! We’ve been going through a similar problem with our ’06 NB convertible top not going down all the way and latching, and believe we’ve narrowed it down (thanks in large part to posters on this forum, to whom we are very grateful!) to a faulty F171 switch (VW Part No. 1Y0959985A as attached and shown here:Micro switch hydraulic cylinder made by Volkswagen VW. #1Y0959985A ).

Is this the switch your husband helped you remove? We can’t get the existing F171 out, and are hoping your husband might have some words of wisdom. There’s one point where we’re hung up – where there’s a little stainless steel clip on top of the micro switch housing, where the hydraulic fluid line goes into the cylinder. How did he get past this? We don’t want to break anything.

Thanks for any light you or your husband can shed!

Liz (not a Grandma, but old enough to be a great-one, ha ha!)
 

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