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I am taking on the feat of installing a new H.U. and sub to my Monsoon equipped Beetle. I am looking for tricks to ease the install especially where it comes to putting the H.U. and all the wiring back in the tiny space. I have pulled my original deck and see that it is real tight. Are there certain panels the aid if removed? Any tips or insight or pictures would be helpful. Thanks
 

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I am taking on the feat of installing a new H.U. and sub to my Monsoon equipped Beetle. I am looking for tricks to ease the install especially where it comes to putting the H.U. and all the wiring back in the tiny space. I have pulled my original deck and see that it is real tight. Are there certain panels the aid if removed? Any tips or insight or pictures would be helpful. Thanks
I had to laugh pretty hard when I read your post!!!!

I do not know the "official" answer, but in my 2003 with the Monsoon I added a late model head unit with my $8 Aux input and once the weather breaks it will get OEM Sirius.

Anyway, I was a bit perplexed on how to get the wiring sucked back into the dashboard as well. I ended up using about 6 feet of twine and a coat hanger. Used the coat hanger to snake through that dash with the driver side hush panel removed.

Endend up tying the twine around the harness just beyond the head unit, then I since I did not have any help, I looped the twine around the bottom of my foot, took out the slack by using my left and, then pushed my foot down while I fed the head unit back in the dash with my right hand!!!

Stupidest thing I have ever had to do, BUT it worked, multiple times. I have left the twine in there and just tied it up under the dash for future re-installs!

I have a thread here with my $8 Aux cable, using it everyday with my poor mans Bluetooth. Just ordered dinner over it a while ago!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ha

And you didn't get pictures of the string to the foot? Gosh I hope nobody walked in and saw you that way.
 

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I don't have any pictures handy, but, what I did is removed the panel that holds the hazard and defroster switches, ran my hand behind the heater controls to help pull the wiring back.
 

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What I did, and will definitely do again if I get another bug,is take a t20 driver and completely remove the center section, install the radio in the dash piece and then you have a giant gaping hole to stuff all your wires into.

It takes some steady pressure when tightening the panel back in to have the heater knobs flush, but it saves so much aggrievation that its worth it if you have to take it out again to change something.
 

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Last week I installed a Jvc head unit, sirius adapter, and a sub in the trunk. I would recommend removing the center dash piece as you really need to position alot of wiring there's little space to work. I placed the sirius adapters under the drivers side upper dash, ran the amp power through a grommet by the brake pedal and tucked under the carpet to the trunk. Ran the Bluetooth mic up the a pillar. And ran the new amp speaker wire on the passenger side behind the glove box.
Tools needed-
Good torx set
Coat hanger
Tape
 

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Remove the centre dash. You don't have to take it out fully but if you at least pull it forward it makes life a whole lot easier.

Also I removed one of the support bars that was behind there, that gave the wires a lot more freedom.
 

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Everett Street in May
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Last week I installed a Jvc head unit, sirius adapter, and a sub in the trunk. I would recommend removing the center dash piece as you really need to position alot of wiring there's little space to work. I placed the sirius adapters under the drivers side upper dash, ran the amp power through a grommet by the brake pedal and tucked under the carpet to the trunk. Ran the Bluetooth mic up the a pillar. And ran the new amp speaker wire on the passenger side behind the glove box.
Tools needed-
Good torx set
Coat hanger
Tape
Did you start a how-to thread by any chance? Or can you post any pics of your install work?

What you did sounds exactly what I want to do with Pepe to update his stereo and "technology" options.

The bluetooth piece would be fantastic to have.

Thanks,

TechnoTrix'd..:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Finished install

I installed my Pioneer Bluetooth H.U. and a Sound Ordinance 8-BPT Powered sub in the rear. The car already had 4 aftermarket Infinity speakers in the doors and back side panels. I spent less than $300 on the upgrade and could not be more pleased. The sound is 1,000 times better in every way. I left the Monsoon in and used the S.O. amp in the trunk. I am impressed with that amp, especially for $150 bucks. It takes up no space. I removed all side speakers and door trims and placed window flashing tape under speakers and throughout the panels. Best thing I ever did. Yes the H.U. install took time and lots of wire adjusting but I got it in and am so happy.
 

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Remove the centre dash. You don't have to take it out fully but if you at least pull it forward it makes life a whole lot easier.

Also I removed one of the support bars that was behind there, that gave the wires a lot more freedom.
That's what I was about to suggest... It's so much easier to fit all those wires once you cut the support bar in the back. I took a dremel to that sucker and now have no fits removing and replacing the H/U :cool:
 

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Everett Street in May
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I installed my Pioneer Bluetooth H.U. and a Sound Ordinance 8-BPT Powered sub in the rear. The car already had 4 aftermarket Infinity speakers in the doors and back side panels. I spent less than $300 on the upgrade and could not be more pleased. The sound is 1,000 times better in every way. I left the Monsoon in and used the S.O. amp in the trunk. I am impressed with that amp, especially for $150 bucks. It takes up no space. I removed all side speakers and door trims and placed window flashing tape under speakers and throughout the panels. Best thing I ever did. Yes the H.U. install took time and lots of wire adjusting but I got it in and am so happy.
Thanks for the info. You mention window flashing tape, so you mean the black sticky tape for house windows? Where else did you put the tape and why? Sorry if that is a noob question just curious what the tape does or helps improve.

Thanks again.


Sent from my Autoguide iPad app
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Window flashing tape

The flashing tape is a rubber tape with foil back and is about 1/8" thick. Use it for sound deadening of the door panels to reduce road noise and vibration. Car sound so much more solid and quiet than previous. It is similar to Dynamat but a fraction of the cost.
 

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Everett Street in May
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Gotcha, very cool then. Where do you pick it up, Home Depot or from an auto-parts store?

Thanks again...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Window tape

Yes, either Lowes or Home depot. I paid $14 for a 25' roll that was 6" wide. I wished I would have bought more but will eventually do the trunk as well
 

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Yes, either Lowes or Home depot. I paid $14 for a 25' roll that was 6" wide. I wished I would have bought more but will eventually do the trunk as well
Excellent. I didn't know such a thing existed, frankly I'm too cheap to shell out money for dynamat. Maybe this will be a future project. :)
 

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Definitely keep this in mind then when I do my speakers. Thanks again for sharing the info on the flashing tape. :bigthumb:
 
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