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CEL came on for the first time since July. Scan showed
P1225
P1226
P1227
P1228
P1425
P1472
All sensor-to-ground related. What should I check first?


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CEL came on for the first time since July. Scan showed
P1225
P1226
P1227
P1228
P1425
P1472
All sensor-to-ground related. What should I check first?


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Did they all just come on "out of the blue"?

Check the power distribution box on top of the battery for corrosion. If there is corrosion, or any of the 3 fuses show "darkening" or looks like they were "singed" - replace it. Rock Auto has them for $33.

All grounds just don't suddenly go bad.
 

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Battery chasis ground cable

Check the battery negative ground cable that go's from the battery to the chasis ground under the battery tray, it's really corrosive spot and a bad place to put the chassis ground connection. I posted a few pictures of what I found a few days ago in mine. Good luck man :) Look at the thread I titled CAUTION in the 1.8 section to see the pictures.
 

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This ever get resolved? I have the exact same codes and it died while driving but no CEL.

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I've replaced the fuel pump relay, fuse 43,and MAF and it's connector(some one had previously broke it and it was plugged in upside-down). All started when the coolant temperature sensor went out. I replaced it and discovered the issue with the MAF connector. Corrected it's orientation and it ran fine for about a week. It died while my wife was driving it home. Towed it back with my Turbo S (funny sight to see). Intake air sensor was bad and had short to ground codes. Replaced MAF and fuel pump relay and fuse 43 was blown as well. Checked timing belt as well and it appears good and to have been replaced by PO. Now still won't start and these are all pending codes. Coil is good. Crank position sensor is good as well.

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I would start by checking the ground connection for the engine sensors using the breather heat element connection as shown in the previous link.

How do you know the crank position sensor is good? Do you still have the original one? From what I have seen, non-OEM replacement ones can measure good (with ohmmeter) and not work properly.
 

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I checked it with a meter as well as it still sends a rpm reading while cranking. Car won't start so that method won't work.

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You could measure the resistance between pin 2 of the connector and the battery negative terminal with the ignition off. It should be indistinguishable from 0 ohms.

Have you checked fuse 43 again to see if that is the reason it won't start?
 

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Pin #2 on the breather heater connector? And yes i have continually checked every fuse( #32, #34, #43)related to the ECM. Also the crank position sensor wasn't replaced so it is still OEM. And before it gets asked i also used the known good OEM relay out of my Turbo S to make sure I hadn't got a bad relay.
 

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Yes, that is correct. Pin 2 on the heater connector.

Try unplugging the MAF and see if it will start. It should run that way. It could be an issue with the wiring there.
 
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