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Thanks for the reply Roccaas, didn't know I could buy spare cables, that is good news! The husband created a new cable out of wire covered in duct tape but it doesn't look good or neat.

Also, he managed to get to the boot & opened it, he checked the cables behind the boot panel and found no loose or corroded wires, he just fiddled with them & made sure they were tight.
He turned on the lights in the car as it was getting dark and when he tried the boot button in the remote it worked again! The same with the boot button in the cabin, it also worked! But they didn't when we switched off the lights. I just tried again this morning with the lights off & both the remote & the button in the cabin are now opening up the boot! :confused:

He thinks it's an electrical issue with the circuit feeding the solenoid because the boot got opened when the lights were on.

In any case it seems to be working now even though nothing was fixed, just some messing with the cables & turning the lights on made a difference! We'll see how long it lasts!

Angeles
 

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ouch!!
My trunk won't open either..then a few days later, suddenly my windows and top also don't work, nor does the power locks.
Although when I was hitting the trunk release switch in the door, I could hear a relay clicking above the foot well. So I'm about to go out now and start checking relays..lol
I have a 2002 NB and it happened same thing to mine, initially my drive side window didn't work properly and now my truck is not work as well.
 

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Hey Indy Tom, this seems to be a very common problem for all years of used NB's from what I've read so far. I fixed the same problem on my daughters 99 NB by following the suggestion an older post that I came across.

Here's what would occur on my daughters NB:
The hatch would not open all the way when using the door button or the keyless remote. It would make a releasing popping sound and within a second a whirring sound would occur. When we would try to lift open after the whirring sound the hatch would not open. It was like it would re-latch a bit after 2 seconds.

If one person would stand at the hatch ready to lift it immediately after the door switch or keyless remote button was pressed, they could open it.

If they waited a second until after the whirring sound happened, it would not open. When turning the VW emblem open in the hatch and use the key, no problem, it would lift open if you immediately pulled the handle.

Turns out, the problem was resolved from a post I read that showed that the hatch hinges each have an 8mm bolt that can be adjusted (backed-out) to set some tension on the hatch hinges when they are folded closed. The bolt is backed out about 1/4 of an inch in the photo attached. The bolts in my hinges were flush - not backed out at all.

After gradually backing the two 8mm bolts evenly a quarter of a turn at a time and testing the remote and door switch opening each time, It eventually reached a point where the bolts were putting some tension on the gate hinges and cause the hatch to rise a bit more than before when unlatched.

Once adjusted correctly, if I released the hatch by the keyless remote button, or the door switch, it caused the hatch to rise about half an inch more than it did before the adjustments. That’s where I stopped adjusting and this stopped the hatch from re-latching and I could lift the hatch open every time after that.

It's been a month now since the adjustment and no more problems…it opens every time now.

Caution! If you try this procedure, be sure to only back the bolts out a little bit at a time just until it reaches enough tension to cause the hatch to raise a bit more than it used to...too much tension and I would imagine some steel hinge bending will start to occur.

My theory is that when the NB was brand new, the gas filled hatch struts had stronger lift pressure and would raise the hatch upon release just enough to prevent a re-latch, and over the years the gas struts weakened a bit.

I don’t want to spend the big bucks to buy a pair of new hatch struts from the VW stealership just to test my theory out.
I hope this helps someone.
This worked perfectly on my wife's 2003.
It would re-lock before you could get to it.
I carefully backed the screws off evenly until it just barely worked.
I went ahead and lubed all of the hinge points to give it the best chance of staying working.
I think it is weak struts, at least at full compression.
If I replace the struts I will re-adjust, as I think too much tension will wear out the hinges quickly.

Thanks for putting this out there.
 
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