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Discussion Starter #1
My wife has a 2005 turbo convertible we bought 2 years ago -rebuilt on a salvage. BTW, I only get to drive it when there's a problem. I hope this isn't too long & I get some input.

About 9 months ago, CEL came on took it to a shop I had used for other things. Serviced, cleared codes, couple of weeks later the wp impeller blew, and replaced both of them. A month later had CEL and went into limp mode, so took it somewhere else, they found campaigns so I took it to dealership for those, but they didn't check CEL when I picked it up & wanted to charge $100 just to hook it up. Back to other garage, he checked and cleared codes. A week later CEL again. Car ran fine so we just lived with it.

Two months ago, car would spit & sputter at low speeds around town, and performed almost like it was in limp mode again.
One month ago, the car died on side of the road so towed it to my mechanic - now #4. Found the fuse box had fried so he replaced that. Checked & cleared codes. He advised that we drive it & if CEL again, he would check vacuum hoses.
Two weeks ago, we were driving it, no spitting & sputtering, but all of a sudden, loud noise like a tire blowing out & car died. Recranked, got it home. My wife wanted me to take it somewhere else - #5. He found the noise was a turbo hose had blown off. He fixed that, but also found that the fuse box was getting hot again, so I left it with him to check out the reason. A week later, he told me I should take it to the dealer for that; as for CEL, his computer wouldn't hook to a
VW. (Don't have to take it there again.)
Today, I drove it to Autozone to check CEL. The kid said it wouldn't link up, which probably meant I have a blown fuse. Car ran fine for about 15 miles, stop & go traffic & running it up to about 75, no spitting or backfiring. But when I got home, it smelled a little hot again.
I'm taking it back Monday to the guy that replaced the fuse box to check problem - don't understand why this suddenly happens twice.
Also, any ideas on the CEL?
Thanks for reading this far down!
 

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5/23/10 <3
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Do you have an aftermarket stereo in the car?

As for the fuse box melting, that's an all too common problem. I think people will often replace the alternator harness to fix the problem completely.

And we can't really help with the CEL unless we know the codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
re Aftermarket Radio

Yes it is an aftermarket. When I bought it, there was an aftermarket in it, and reception was very poor. Had a bluetooth model installed by Best Buy, and it was a little better. Somewhere in all the visits, reception improved but didn't know if reception was problem with it being a convertable or having been rebuilt.
I'm going to take it back to the shop that replaced the fuse box on Monday and see if he can check codes.
I am curious as to why the fuse box melts, then starts overheating two weeks later.
 

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Also check fuse 12 in the fuse block in the left side of the dash, this fuse provides power to the ODB port. If this fuse is blown then tester will not power up and work.

K
 

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I had the exact same VAG read problem. The following forum post made for an easy fix. If they cannot read the exact codes at the shop, how have they been diagnosing your CEL issues? I actually printed out the instructions and faxed them to the shop myself. They fixed it for no additional cost.

After Market Radio Installation
*
http://newbeetle.org/forums/attachm...rmarket-20radio-20installation-20warning-.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Checking CEL Codes

It gets confusing.
Shop One replaced burnt fuse box, cleaned MAF and cleared codes.

Shop Two didn't have adapter to check VW codes. (?)

Took it to Autozone over the weekend who said they couldn't read codes, wouldn't link and thought a fuse might have been blown.

Was going to take Tech Bulletin to Best Buy this morning - they are the ones who installed the Sony radio.

Thanks for the bulletin!
 

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Shop two is incompetent. No special adapter needed. Its an OBDII port. Same as on any car.
 

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2279 Code

I bought my 2004 NB last july and I have been plaqued with taht darn 2279 code from day one. 2 weeks ago sounded like the muffler blew, took into the garage and the flex pipe back on the manifold next to firewall had rusted through PLUS the uclamp came loose. They fixed and I HOPE that that ends code P2279. Mechanic seems to think it had a small hole, possibly, and that when the Uclamp failed it pulled on the flex, which had a bit of rust, and completely broke it. 225.00 later, runs nice. He thinks this will also help with the gas mileage as in town I was lucky to get 15mpg but on the highway, much better. I will top off and run her in town and see if it did help.

I do love my BughZ and hope that this solves the problem.

Just a gals 2cents worth

:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
CEL - Fuse Box & Harness

Shop two is incompetent. No special adapter needed. Its an OBDII port. Same as on any car.
LOL - That's the shop my wife wanted me to take the car to. I posted elsewhere about latest issue.
Short version - Engine spitting/ sputtering, said a/c goes off and on. Car died yesterday - luckily on service road. Fuse box also overheating, especially the alternator wire and the fuse controlling the coolant fan. I'm thinking that the fan going out could send shut the a/c off and possibly put it in limp mode.
When I crank it cold, it seems to be okay.
Stupid question - I see posts that say replacing the altenator "harness" fixes the fuse box issue. Is the harness simply the large black wire connecting the fuse box to the altenator?
If so, what's a good source for parts? Ebay had one harness, but it's used. No thanks!
BTW, in looking at mine, that wire still has insulation on it where crimped to the connection? Could that be a problem?
BTW, Thanks to everyone for their helpful posts!
 
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