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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everybody,

I got a 2003 turbo s beetle in September of this year, the PO thought that the timing belt had snapped, however it actually had overheated and warped the head. I got all that fixed and enjoyed driving the car. I was looking into getting a tune and I found one that had sai/evap/emissions/immo deleted so I decided to go for it. I was a little overzealous and took out the evap and emissions before the tune actually arrived as when I read up on it the only thing that would happen is a cel light for the sensors not being plugged in. After all that was said and done I go and drive the car and I am now getting 3 codes.
17553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Short to Plus
P1145 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17963 - Charge Pressure: Maximum Limit Exceeded
P1555 - 35-00 - -
01314 - Engine Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
I followed the wired from the ecu making sure nothing was touching and used a multimeter to check resistance to the surrounding wires to make sure, nothing was crossed at all. I also have tried 2 different MAFs from 2 running 1.8ts and am still getting the same codes. That led me to think that my ecu is having trouble re learning after the evap was deleted, so I went to the junkyard today and got an aww ecu which should work to control everything as the pinout is the same. Now the problem I have is I cannot drive the car because the immobilizer. I have tried vag commander which would connect to the car and give me some data but would never read the actual SKC, vag tacho wouldnt even detect my cable, and some other programs to no avail.

If anyone has any ideas please let me know, 5 psi of boost isnt as fun as 11.
 

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You have made allot of changes and have a modified software tune, it is common for things to not work. It sounds like, you are going into limp mode and thus, the reduced power, drivability issues. What brand is the tune, what stage level is installed, did they recommend any hardware upgrades to go along with it and have you contacted them for tech support?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You have made allot of changes and have a modified software tune, it is common for things to not work. It sounds like, you are going i ti limp mode and thus, the reduced power, drivability issues. Who or what brand is the tune, what stage level is installed, did they recommend any hardware upgrades to go along with it and have you contacted them for tech support?
Sorry I forgot to mention, the tune was from someone who was selling their old ecu, and it seems to have been lost in the mail. And yes the car is going into what im calling soft limp mode where its limited to about 5-6 psi of boost.
 

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So, who did the tune and do you know; if it is even compatible with the 1.8T engine code you have? Do you still have the original ecu; to it put all back in, to see if things go back to normal operating condition and make the car drivable again? Paying for a well known and quality tuner/software; gives you customer service and tech support after the sale, which is the help you need now.

I would put things back to stick; then, you can drive the car and seek out a tuner that provides tech support for it.
 

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So, who did the tune and do you know; if it is even compatible with the 1.8T engine code you have? Do you still have the original ecu; to it put all back in, to see if things go back to normal operating condition and make the car drivable again? Paying for a well known and quality tuner/software; gives you customer service and tech support after the sale, which is the help you need now.
I only mentioned the tune to explain why i deleted the evap/emissions. The original ecu is what is throwing the codes above. I am trying to rule out the ecu with the one from the aww jetta. What I am really looking for is a say to get the SKC from the cluster so I can program one of my keys to drive the car using the junkyard ecu. I would also like to note that I had taken the cover off of the original ecu and there were some light signs of water damage.
 

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So you are using the original ecu with a remap or the stock map? Your stock ecu maybe damaged? Is the jetta ecu the same part # and compatible with your engine code? (My 2002 turbo s has the awp engine code).

To get the skc, i used Vag Tacho; many Chinese knockoff ebay sourced cables, hacked/pirated software are flakey and hard to get to work with the various versions of Windows on a PC.

Sourcing a good/compatible ecu or having your original ecu repaired, maybe a interim repair solution, while you come up with a solutions/supported based performance upgrade plan/path in the future.

I would work through a process of elimination and work backwards, through each change you made to the car, until things start working correctly again. At that point you would have narrowed things down and what is probably causing the problem; based upon what you are describing the ecu is highly suspect. I am not clear if your used ecu is compatible with your car and then the immo is a issue.

The strategy of having a good stock ecu and then having another one, to experiment, work with to try modified tunes out with is a solid strategy.
 

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So you are using the original ecu with a remap or the stock map? Your stock ecu maybe damaged? Is the jetta ecu the same part # and compatible with your engine code? (My 2002 turbo s has the awp engine code).

To get the skc, i used Vag Tacho; many Chinese knockoff ebay sourced cables, hacked/pirated software are flakey and hard to get to work with the various versions of Windows on a PC.

Sourcing a good/compatible ecu or having your original ecu repaired, maybe a interim repair solution, while you come up with a solutions/supported based performance upgrade plan/path in the future.

I would work through a process of elimination and work backwards, through each change you made to the car, until things start working correctly again. At that point you would have narrowed things down and what is probably causing the problem; based upon what you are describing the ecu is highly suspect. I am not clear if your used ecu is compatible with your car and then the immo is a issue.

The strategy of having a good stock ecu and then having another one, to experiment, work with to try modified tunes out with is a solid strategy.
Could you send me the version of vag tacho you used if you still have it?
 

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I bought the cable off of amazon; sent them back, afterwards. It took me days and many hours over a week; to troubleshoot getting the cable oi be recognized by a windows based pc, then the hacked software to work. I used different laptops with older and newer versions of the windows os; windows 7 in software compatibility mode, virus software turned off, downloaded different versions of.Vagtacho etc. I eventually, came up with a combination of a laptop, windows version and vagtacho version that finally worked. Its been years since i did it but i think it was windows 7 in software compatibility mode;hat finally worked but i don't remember the specific details to help you with or vagtach version to share with you.

Other options might be a handheld vag Chinese scan tool like the VAG 401 or the SuperVag types, that have the ability to read the secret key code or have a local auto mobile locksmith pull it for you with their automotive immo scan tools they use everyday.

Fixmyeuro, offers a genuine vagtacho kit; for rental.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I bought the cable off of amazon; sent them back, afterwards. It took me days and many hours over a week; to troubleshoot getting the cable oi be recognized by a windows based pc, then the hacked software to work. I used different laptops with older and newer versions of the windows os; windows 7 in software compatibility mode, virus software turned off, downloaded different versions of.Vagtacho etc. I eventually, came up with a combination of a laptop, windows version and vagtacho version that finally worked. Its been years since i did it but i think it was windows 7 in software compatibility mode;hat finally worked but i don't remember the specific details to help you with or vagtach version to share with you.

Other options might be a handheld vag Chinese scan tool like the VAG 401 or the SuperVag types, that have the ability to read the secret key code or have a local auto mobile locksmith pull it for you with their automotive immo scan tools they use everyday.

Fixmyeuro, offers a genuine vagtacho kit; for rental.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was not aware of the vag 401. I just ordered one. That's pretty cool.
 
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