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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's causing this to not work and how hard is it to replace? also if the speedo isn't working can vag pull up mileage? another words does it keep record with ecu even though speedo is not working

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Have you scanned the car with a VW compatible scan tool? The Turbo S has the 02M; is a six speed standard and has a sensor, that is used for the speedo. I would think; either that sensor is bad/wiring is compromised or the speedo cluster has a problem. Typically, a hardware/wiring failures; would come up as VW specific trouble codes, which can be helpful to narrow down the problem. Again, testing the speedo, getting these types of codes; would require a VW scan tool and advanced troubleshooting, coding would require advanced VW scan tools like VCDS by Ross Tech. Anything related to the speedo cluster would definitely require a VW scan tool but if the speed sensor was bad, those codes might be picked by a generic obd II code reader.

The speedo itself; keeps track of the milage in a eeprom chip, on the board inside the speedo. If the speedo is bad; you can have it repaired or get another speedo, transferring the milage to the new/used cluster. For example; if you got a used cluster, it would have retained (in memory); the milage from the donor car, which would need to be changed to retain your car's mileage reading.

Replacement speedo options:

Used Speedo: (mileage present from donor car):

1. This would require "zeroing out" by a tuning company like Reflect Tuning (change the milage to "0"; so it could be programmed); if the speedo had milage already on it.

a. would require secret key code; pulled by VagTacho and programming/key matching completed using VCDS.

b. or have a tuning company do it for you; no need to rent or buy VCDS/Vag Tacho; plug/play, repair complete. This would require; you sending the original and "new" cluster to the tuner.

New Speedo: (zero miles):

2. If the speedo was new with zero miles; you can use VCDS to do the soft coding and transfer the mileage to the new cluster.

a. would require secret key code; pulled by VagTacho and programming/key matching completed using VCDS.

b. or have a tuning company do it for you; no need to rent or buy VCDS/VagTacho

Use your original cluster:

3. bypass all the programming issues, fix your original cluster. No programming needed; plug/play, repair complete. Probably, the most cost effective and least hassle solution.

a. Ship it out to someone; like BBA REMAN for a complete rebuild with upgraded components and a lifetime warranty. Everything is retained (e.g. milage; key coding, etc.) and you install it, play/play and the repair is complete.

As for the speed sensor; here is some info:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/transmission-talk/50942-turbo-s-just-lost-1st-2nd-my-02m-6-speed-5.html

location: #17

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ent_information/service_and_repair/page_3762/

NOW, before we get ahead of ourselves; scan the car with a VW compatible scan tool and let us know, what the trouble codes are, we will go from there. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you scanned the car with a VW compatible scan tool? The Turbo S has the 02M; is a six speed standard and has a sensor, that is used for the speedo. I would think; either that sensor is bad/wiring is compromised or the speedo cluster has a problem. Typically, a hardware/wiring failures; would come up as VW specific trouble codes, which can be helpful to narrow down the problem. Again, testing the speedo, getting these types of codes; would require a VW scan tool and advanced troubleshooting, coding would require advanced VW scan tools like VCDS by Ross Tech. Anything related to the speedo cluster would definitely require a VW scan tool but if the speed sensor was bad, those codes might be picked by a generic obd II code reader.

The speedo itself; keeps track of the milage in a eeprom chip, on the board inside the speedo. If the speedo is bad; you can have it repaired or get another speedo, transferring the milage to the new/used cluster. For example; if you got a used cluster, it would have retained (in memory); the milage from the donor car, which would need to be changed to retain your car's mileage reading.

Replacement speedo options:

Used Speedo: (mileage present from donor car):

1. This would require "zeroing out" by a tuning company like Reflect Tuning (change the milage to "0"; so it could be programmed); if the speedo had milage already on it.

a. would require secret key code; pulled by VagTacho and programming/key matching completed using VCDS.

b. or have a tuning company do it for you; no need to rent or buy VCDS/Vag Tacho; plug/play, repair complete. This would require; you sending the original and "new" cluster to the tuner.

New Speedo: (zero miles):

2. If the speedo was new with zero miles; you can use VCDS to do the soft coding and transfer the mileage to the new cluster.

a. would require secret key code; pulled by VagTacho and programming/key matching completed using VCDS.

b. or have a tuning company do it for you; no need to rent or buy VCDS/VagTacho

Use your original cluster:

3. bypass all the programming issues, fix your original cluster. No programming needed; plug/play, repair complete. Probably, the most cost effective and least hassle solution.

a. Ship it out to someone; like BBA REMAN for a complete rebuild with upgraded components and a lifetime warranty. Everything is retained (e.g. milage; key coding, etc.) and you install it, play/play and the repair is complete.

As for the speed sensor; here is some info:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/transmission-talk/50942-turbo-s-just-lost-1st-2nd-my-02m-6-speed-5.html

location: #17

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ent_information/service_and_repair/page_3762/

NOW, before we get ahead of ourselves; scan the car with a VW compatible scan tool and let us know, what the trouble codes are, we will go from there. :)
ok thanks for the info. I do have ross tech vcds code reader. I'll scan again but I don't remember getting any codes related to the speedo. I'll scan and post codes up here . thank you.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
VCDS readout sorry for delay due to holidays

15 Faults Found:
16885 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
P0501 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal
16705 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0321 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17559 - Long Term Fuel Trim Additive Air; Bank 1; Range 1
P1151 - 35-10 - System too Lean - Intermittent
17950 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187)
P1542 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17972 - Throttle Actuator (J338)
P1564 - 35-10 - Under-Voltage during Basic Setting - Intermittent
17579 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Implausible Signal
P1171 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
19667 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P3211 - 35-00 - Heater Return Coupling
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 35-00 -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 -
16685 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 35-00 - Misfire Detected
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 35-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 35-00 - Misfire Detected
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System
P0411 - 35-00 - Incorrect Flow Detected
17772 - Cylinder 4 Ignition Circuit
P1364 - 35-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
16688 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0100

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ESP-F.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 G
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0102
Coding: 0019970
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 2E53538CBAF50D4EC9-5140

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 1C0 909 605 A
Component: 25 AIRBAG VW51 0E 0004
Coding: 12853
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 224BB7BCAE2DB92E5D-4B00

3 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
01299 - Diagnostic Interface for Data Bus (J533)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
00-00 - -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1C0-920-x4x.lbl
Part No: 1C0 920 921 J
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 V09
Coding: 07232
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 2541ACA0BF034E1638-4B00
3VWFE21C52M441569 VWZ5Z0B0247398

3 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01316 - ABS Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
00771 - Fuel Level Sensor (G)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN V092
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 70EF8DF430415BBE9B-4B1A

3 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01316 - ABS Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 799 G
Component: 2K Komfortgerát HLO 0004
Coding: 00064
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3B756AD82987E8E67E-4AE8

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C2959802A
Component: 2K Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0004

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C2959801A
Component: 2K Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0004

2 Faults Found:
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
35-00 - -
00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 54: Rear Spoiler Labels: 1C0-959-733.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 733 C
Component: Heckspoiler 0002
VCID: 2B555A98D9E77866EE-5198

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 1J0-035-18x-56.lbl
Part No: 1C0 035 157 G
Component: Radio DE2 0006
Coding: 06033
Shop #: WSC 05089
VCID: 204FBDB4A021AB3E4B-51D4

No fault code found.
 

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That is a TON of codes; depending on how long it has been since the codes were cleared. It maybe, a long term history build up of problems from the past and not necessarily, what is going on now. How, is the car running; at this time? Many times; a low battery and charging issue, will cause many computers to throw a code list similar to this.

You might clear the codes and see; if any come back. If you want to check out the definitions; of the codes in the list, look at the ross tech wiki.

Ross-Tech Wiki
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That is a TON of codes; depending on how long it has been since the codes were cleared. It maybe, a long term history build up of problems from the past and not necessarily, what is going on now. How, is the car running; at this time? Many times; a low battery and charging issue, will cause many computers to throw a code list similar to this.

You might clear the codes and see; if any come back. If you want to check out the definitions; of the codes in the list, look at the ross tech wiki.

Ross-Tech Wiki
I agree ! lol well that's a start for sure. I'll let you know

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Do the rest of the speedo functions work and does the mileage show on the screen if not check fuses . Then if you trans has a g22 sensor remove it and check if gear on end of sensor is good . If gear is good hook up a drill to the sensor and spin it with the car turned on to see if the speedo is working . if its not working get a digital volt meter and check the out put on the sensor , if no voltage is present sensor is bad , if voltage is present speedo is bad . if all that works the gear in the trans is gone . I have a 1.8t 4 speed automatic I'm sure yours is similar . My gear was bad and it was ugly. Unfortunately . I came up with this after fooling around with this and wasting money having someone else miss diagnose the problem because I didn't have the time to do it my self.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok everything works but the speedo . so after clearing the codes everything went away and I drove around the block and the only code I got back was vehicle speed sensor so I'm guessing that's why I don't see my speedo working.
I got 00778 steering angle sensor g85 . Some airbag lights which I'll research later. the speedo code was 16885 implausible signal. Also still getting oil pressure light and beep when I get up to 1500 rpms I'm thinking drop the oil pan and check screen and pick up tube?

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16885/P0501/001281 - Ross-Tech Wiki

00778 - Ross-Tech Wiki

As for the oil pressure issue; you need to figure out what the "real world" oil pressure is. The best way to do this; is isolate the pressure gauge/electrical portion of the system by testing it with a oil pressure gauge test kit. These can be rented or purchased at most auto parts stores or online; Harbor Freight has a kit for about $20 with a 20% off online coupon.

Engine Oil Pressure Test Kit

Pittsburgh Automotive - Item#98949

http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html

You need to see if it is in factory spec and then, go from there to diagnose the problem.

Specs and oil pressure testing procedure:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ressure/component_information/specifications/

You will need to remove the oil pressure sending unit and get a thread adapter to connect to the oil pressure tester to the engine block. Some testers; have many adapters but many do not have the one we need, for our cars. I ended up buying a adapter set from Autozone: SunPro metric adapter kit part #: cp7573 (it comes with a number of adapters; the one for the 1.8T is: M10 X 1.0 to 1/8" NPT).

This oil pressure light coming on; is a common issue. Here is a thread; where we worked through the problem with a member here:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/60604-intermittent-oil-pressure-light.html

Typical problems; center on "actual" low pressure in the engine or electrical problems, that make the oil pressure gauge go off in the speedo but the real world, oil pressure is actually fine. The electrical problems; center on the linkage between the electrical circuits of the coolant temp/oil pressure. If there is a fault in the cooling system sensors or wiring; it can cause the oil pressure light to come on. Typically, a bad sensor or cts plug/wiring being compromised/damaged; will also, cause the same issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
16885/P0501/001281 - Ross-Tech Wiki

00778 - Ross-Tech Wiki

As for the oil pressure issue; you need to figure out what the "real world" oil pressure is. The best way to do this; is isolate the pressure gauge/electrical portion of the system by testing it with a oil pressure gauge test kit. These can be rented or purchased anywhere; Harbor Freight has a kit for about $20 with a 20% off online coupon.

Engine Oil Pressure Test Kit

Pittsburgh Automotive - Item#98949

http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html

You need to see if it is in factory spec and then, go from there to diagnose the problem.

Specs and oil pressure testing procedure:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ressure/component_information/specifications/

You will need to remove the oil pressure sending unit and get a thread adapter to connect to the oil pressure tester to the engine block. Some testers; have many adapter but many do not have the one we need, for our cars. I ended up buying a adapter set from Autozone: SunPro metric adapter kit part #: cp7573 (it comes with a number of adapters; the one for the 1.8T is: M10 X 1.0 to 1/8" NPT).

This oil pressure issue; is a common issue. Here is a thread; where we worked through the problem with a member here:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/60604-intermittent-oil-pressure-light.html

Typical problems; center on "actual" low pressure in the engine or electrical problems, that make the oil pressure gauge go off in the speedo but the oil pressure is actually fine.
Thanks for all the help Billymade and others greatly appreciated ! I'll try focusing on what you said to do billymade. I'll attempt that this weekend if time permits and I'll let you all know the outcome. I did Google that and see the results from vcds on the vehicle speed sensor. so I'll replace that. I just bought the car so forgive me If I'm clueless on other issues. I plan on buying the manual on it. Need all the torque specs and what not.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok update so I dropped the pan because I bought this car and wasn't sure if this was done yet . Both pan and pick up very clean looking. Orange oil dip stick was in tact none in pick up or pan. CTS was replaced. BTW all my codes have been rectified but the oil pressure code and a blue coolant symbol on dash. Coolant bottle looks old so I'll replace. Water pump I'll do next along with oil pressure test. Besides a schematic can someone show me a picture of location of oil pressure sender spot to connect into to test pressure?

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The oil pressure sending unit; is on the drivers side, near the oil cooler/oil filter adapter bracket.

This video shows location and oil pressure testing; orientation is slightly different but location is the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvFVQn9xb0c

Engine Oil Pressure:

Specifications Check oil pressure at different RPMs: Idle: at least 1.2 - 1.6 bar
2000 RPM: 2.7 - 4.5 bar
Above 2000 RPM: maximum 7.0 bar

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > New Beetle Turbo S L4-1.8L Turbo (AWP) (2002) > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Sender > Component Information > Testing and Inspection

Here are the coolant temp modes:

Blue coolant light = engine cold
Flashing blue coolant light = fault in the coolant monitoring system
Flashing red coolant light = low on coolant
Steady red coolant light = engine overheating, pull over and stop engine IMMEDIATELY and do not run until the problem has been identified.

The blue coolant light; should go out, after it warms up, if it doesn't and stays on, you probably have a bad coolant temp sensor or a wiring/plug problem.

For a timing belt kit; check out these guys: Audi Parts - Vw Parts - Audi Parts Vw Parts Kit Company - Blauparts®

Please post the trouble codes; that you are getting, thanks! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The oil pressure sending unit; is on the drivers side, near the oil cooler/oil filter bracket.

This video shows location and oil pressure testing; orientation is slightly different but location is the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvFVQn9xb0c

Engine Oil Pressure:

Specifications Check oil pressure at different RPMs: Idle: at least 1.2 - 1.6 bar
2000 RPM: 2.7 - 4.5 bar
Above 2000 RPM: maximum 7.0 bar

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > New Beetle Turbo S L4-1.8L Turbo (AWP) (2002) > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Sender > Component Information > Testing and Inspection

Here are the coolant temp modes:

Blue coolant light = engine cold
Flashing blue coolant light = fault in the coolant monitoring system
Flashing red coolant light = low on coolant
Steady red coolant light = engine overheating, pull over and stop engine IMMEDIATELY and do not run until the problem has been identified.

The blue coolant light; should go out, after it warms up, if it doesn't and stays on, you probably have a bad coolant temp sensor or a wiring/plug problem.

For a timing belt kit; check out these guys: Audi Parts - Vw Parts - Audi Parts Vw Parts Kit Company - Blauparts®

Please post the trouble codes; that you are getting, thanks! :)
Thanks a lot Billy I was googling that and couldn't find it. I appreciate btw I did read over that link you provided on last post. Very insightful thanks appreciate it a lot. I'll look and see what code is populating right after I put the pan back on and all. I'll update you. Big thanks again can't wait till I have it up to my standard.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks a lot Billy I was googling that and couldn't find it. I appreciate btw I did read over that link you provided on last post. Very insightful thanks appreciate it a lot. I'll look and see what code is populating right after I put the pan back on and all. I'll update you. Big thanks again can't wait till I have it up to my standard.

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Couldn't I run the vcds and get real time data on oil pressure without even hooking up the oil pressure Guage? I saw this video it was the only one I had to go off of and the motor being transverse made me not a 100% on sensor I was pulling. Mine has three wires coming off of it . Idk questionable . I'm in same location but motor turned obviously.

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The issue; has been related to electrical problems or oil pressure sending units, in the past and that was the actual reason, the light was turning on in the speedo cluster and causing a false positive. We are trying to go "old school", bypass the car's computer/electrical system/ecu; all together and see what the actual "real world" oil pressure is with a oil pressure tester gauge. The data, VCDS would be getting; is the actual sending unit/electrical circuitry we are removing and the port, that the traditional oil pressure test gauge will be connected to. Once you confirm; the oil pressure is within factory specs; then, you can move on to troubleshooting the electrical system, sending unit and possibly the coolant temp sensor, wiring harness (these are linked).

This exploded view; should make it clear, where the sending unit and port are on the oil cooler bracket:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/47980-location-pics-oil-pressure-switch-sensor.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The issue; has been related to electrical problems or oil pressure sending units, in the past and that was the actual reason, the light was turning on in the speedo cluster and causing a false positive. We are trying to go "old school", bypass the car's computer/electrical system/ecu; all together and see what the actual "real world" oil pressure is with a oil pressure tester gauge. The data, VCDS would be getting; is the actual sending unit/electrical circuitry we are removing and the port, that the traditional oil pressure test gauge will be connected to. Once you confirm; the oil pressure is within factory specs; then, you can move on to troubleshooting the electrical system, sending unit and possibly the coolant temp sensor, wiring harness (these are linked).

This exploded view; should make it clear, where the sending unit and port are on the oil cooler bracket:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/47980-location-pics-oil-pressure-switch-sensor.html
Ah ok that makes sense. Yeah once I test it and I still have issue after my pressure is in right range I'm betting it's the wiring since I replaced cts already but could be sending unit. Thanks a ton. I'll think I'll make a video or some pictures for someone who is visual like me ha. Thanks I'll update later once I've put everything back in.

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
The issue; has been related to electrical problems or oil pressure sending units, in the past and that was the actual reason, the light was turning on in the speedo cluster and causing a false positive. We are trying to go "old school", bypass the car's computer/electrical system/ecu; all together and see what the actual "real world" oil pressure is with a oil pressure tester gauge. The data, VCDS would be getting; is the actual sending unit/electrical circuitry we are removing and the port, that the traditional oil pressure test gauge will be connected to. Once you confirm; the oil pressure is within factory specs; then, you can move on to troubleshooting the electrical system, sending unit and possibly the coolant temp sensor, wiring harness (these are linked).

This exploded view; should make it clear, where the sending unit and port are on the oil cooler bracket:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/47980-location-pics-oil-pressure-switch-sensor.html
How long does the oil cooler last for typically? Also that oil sender was a royal pain to get to. I believe the harness was rewired. Since I'm in there I'm replacing all hoses that look remotely bad. I had to cut the two oil lines with little sleeve that was on just to see or to get better access. Used a 23mm extended socket. I'll just replace that hose since it's like 4$ with the little sleeve. Anything in particular known to fail while I'm in there? Btw exploded view helped a lot.

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