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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

My first post and I'm posting on behalf of my good lady who is having problems with her 2008 1.6 Beetle Convertible.

It started off with the ESP/ASR light coming on solidly, followed by the CEL light whilst driving.

The EPC light has also been on and off intermittently.

The car isn't catching straight away when we try to fire it up and it seems to be in limp mode as it's definitely down on power.

I've plugged it in to my vagcom and the codes I got were;

16706 - P0322 - Engine Speed Sensor, No signal.

16719 - P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Malfunction.

and from the ABS ECU I got;

01314 - Engine Control Module - Sporadic 013-Check DTC Memory.


So lastnight I changed the crank position sensor to a brand new one, and serviced the car for her, including oil and oil filter change, fuel and air filter change, and spark plugs hoping this would sort the issue but it seems to have achieved nothing apart from smoother running, the codes came back on the way home after erasing them. Everything was reassembled and double checked after doing the work.


Can anyone advise on where I might want to investigate next?

Are the engine speed sensor and crank position sensor the same thing on the 1.6 petrol engine?

Thanks in advance.

Andrew
 

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http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16706/P0322/000802

16719 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (G28): Malfunction

P0335 - OBD-II Trouble Code

01314 - Ross-Tech Wiki

The 1.6L is not a USA spec engine; so, most of us here, have no experience with them. However, what I have noticed; is that the same motor seems to have been put in the Polo.

For the crank/speed sensor; they are referencing the (G28) sensor.

So, do you have a automatic or standard transmission? That might help us determine; which sensor it is.

For a service manual; that would help in your repairs, check out the Haynes UK specific spec version here:

VW Beetle Service and Repair Manual (Haynes Service and Repair Manuals) Paperback – 13 May 2013
by Bob Henderson (Author)

ISBN-13: 978-0857336545


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Beetle-Serv...=1-1-fkmr2&keywords=new+beetle+service+manual

One thing; you might do, is do a "hard reset"; when I replaced my 02 sensor, the trouble code was persistent (came back). I did a hard reset and it went away. So, try that: remove positive/negative battery cables; touch them together for 30 seconds and it will clear the computer's memory.

After that; I would take the car for test drive and see, if any codes come back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Hi Billy,

Thanks for the reply.

It's a manual transmission, 5 speed. From the reading I've done so far on ross-wiki and other forums it seems the codes I've got may somehow be interlinked but how exactly is a bit above my station.

I also did a readiness check on the ECU and it came up with with catalytic converter fails so I'm wondering if the o2 sensor might require changing.

Andrew
 

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Did you do a "hard reset"; after a test drive, do any codes come back?

For the testing and checking of the cat and the 02 sensors, you could do some testing with VCDS ("basic settings" and "measuring blocks"). Here is some excellent info here; it maybe slightly different for the 1.6L.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ng-the-MAF-O2-sensors-and-catalytic-converter

quoted from " VgRt6 " on VWVORTEX:

VAG-COM procedures for testing the MAF, O2 sensors and catalytic converter
02-29-2004 01:10 AM #1
In order to test your MAF, O2 sensors and catalytic converter, check out the following blocks in the "Engine" control module with your VAG-COM. Blocks 002, 030, 032 and 033 are done in "Measuring Blocks" while blocks 036, 034 and 046 are done in "Basic Settings". Let me know if you have any questions about how to run the tests. (NOTE: The following tests are MKIV VR6 specific. If you have a 1.8T or 2.0 engine, the procedure from running the automated tests is slightly different. For a 1.8T engine, see this THREAD for instructions on how to initiate the tests. I'm not positive about the initiation procedure with a 2.0 engine, but from what I've found, with an AEG engine you manually raise the engine speed to between 1800 and 2200 RPMs, and with the AVH and AZG engines, you depress the accelerator to the WOT (wide open throttle) position to raise the engine speed to ~2000 RPMs.

Block 002 - Load Registration
- Check the MAF airflow reading at idle. Make sure the car is running and warmed up and the A/C is off. Go to Block 002 and look in Field 4. The value at idle should be between 1 and 25 g/s. If it's lower than 1 g/s, then there is probably a leak in the intake tubing between the MAF and manifold.

Block 030 - Oxygen Sensor Regulation
- Go to Block 030. Field 1 is a three-digit binary code which gives the status of the pre-cat oxygen sensor. Field 2 is the same thing but for the post-cat oxygen sensor. The digits indicate whether or not the sensor heater is working and whether or not the oxygen sensor control is operational and active. The value should fluctuate between 111 (heater on) and 011 (heater off). The last two digits can also fluctuate between '1' and '0', but should be predominantly '1'.

Block 032 - Oxygen Sensor Control Learned Values
- Go to Block 032. Field 1 represents the fuel trim at idle (additive) and Field 2 represents the fuel trim at part load (multiplicative), i.e., while driving. The value should be between -10 and +10% (negative indicates the engine is running rich and positive indicates the engine is running lean). If the value is close to +25% (which is the upper limit), it usually means that the MAF is bad. If the value is somewhere between +10 and +25%, it could mean that the pre-cat oxygen sensor is bad, there is a leak in the intake or that the MAF is on it's way out. The value I found for my car (VR6), which has a new 2.0 MAF and new oxygen sensors is +1.6%.

Block 033 - Pre-Cat Oxygen Sensor Control
- Go to Block 033. The value in Field 1 represents the pre-cat oxygen sensor control. The value should fluctuate at least 2% in the -10 to +10% range.

Block 036 - Post-Cat Oxygen Sensor Control
- Go to Block 036 (this test must be done in basic settings, not measuring blocks). Depress and hold brake pedal to run the automated test. The engine RPMs should raise to around 1400. Field 1 is post-cat sensor voltage. It must fluctuate slightly between 0 and 1V. Field 4 will say either 'TEST OFF/ON' before/while the test is running and either 'B1-S2 OK' (sensor is good) or 'B1-S2 NOT OK' (sensor is bad) after the test is finished. Release the brake pedal after the test finishes.

Block 034 - Aging of Pre-Cat Oxygen Sensor
- Go to Block 034 (this test must be done in basic settings, not measuring blocks). Depress and hold brake pedal to run the automated test. The engine RPMs should raise to around 1400. Field 1 is the engine speed. Field 2 is the catalytic converter temp. Field 3 is the value which tells you how aged the sensor is (not sure what it's called). Field 4 will say either 'TEST OFF/ON' before/while the test is running and either 'B1-S1 OK' or 'B1-S1 NOT OK' after the test is finished. The aging value must be above 0.80. The value for a new sensor is 1.99. The value will decrease as the sensor ages. Release the brake pedal after the test finishes.

Block 046 - Catalytic Converter
NOTE: The test in Block 034 must be done just before this test or it will NOT initiate!
- Go to Block 046 (this test must be done in basic settings, not measuring blocks). Depress and hold brake pedal to start the automated cat. test (last approx. 100 secs - the cat needs to be warmed up above a certain threshold for an accurate reading - the threshold is usually 400°C). The engine RPMs (Field 1) should raise to around 1400. Field 2 is the cat. temp. This will also rise during the test. Field 3 is the cat. conversion efficiency. If the cat is good, the value should be below 0.50 at the end of the test. Field 4 will indicate if the cat is good (CAT B1 - OK) or bad (CAT B1 - NOT OK). Release the brake pedal after the test finishes.


Modified by VgRt6 at 12:24 AM 11-7-2004
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks again for the info. Turns out it was the crank position sensor, the one I bought was faulty, tried another and as if by magic all codes were gone, starting as it should and out of limp mode. :)
 

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Cool, glad you got it fixed! What brand of sensor did you buy? We have noticed; that non oem brands don't work well, best to go with OEM BOSCH.

Got any pics of your engine and car? It would be cool; to see what your New Beetle is like! :) We don't have the 1.6L across the pond; how do you like the engine and is it pretty good gas (petrol) milage (mpg) and how is the power, driving around? Inquiring minds want to know! :)
 
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