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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2000 beetle. About a year ago my center knob to control the speed of the blower felt stiff then upon turning it again it got stuck at speed 1, but would still turn to the other settings. Measing with it got the knob stuck at 4 and blowing 1. It was okay because at least I could defrost my windows. It did eventually stop blowing all together. Winter was about over so I let it go. Now it's cold so I decided to try and fix it. I found this thread: http://newbeetle.org/forums/technical-how/12537-how-fix-c-fan-switch.html

This was my problem!BUT!! I was not as lucky to just be able to reassemble it. My metal piece had made the black wheel MELT! I didn't get to take pics before we put it back together. I may take it apart just to post them. We glued the metal back into its place. The melted part wasn't bad enough to destroy everything. It just made the wheel not turn all the way now. I have settings 2-4. No 1 or off. Heat and lights behind the three knobs are not working now. I'm going back in anyway to try and see what happened. I'll keep you bugs posted!! 1/03/2015
 

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The knob/shaft with the metallic contact is the same in all the MkIV cars I've looked at. I've gathered four replacements for my 2000.
When my blower quit, I snagged the entire knob/shaft/contact from a Jetta in a local parts yard. It was a breeze to replace the entire assembly, rather than fool with the flimsy contact and broken plastic of the original.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update

Still no heat:confused: I was told it could be the blower motor or resister are bad that made it get hot. Any suggestions? !:confused::confused:
 

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Still no heat:confused: I was told it could be the blower motor or resister are bad that made it get hot. Any suggestions? !:confused::confused:
No heat can be caused by several different circumstances. Sorry for the ambiguity. Sometimes it could be your thermostat is stuck open, or other times you may have a blend door issue.
 

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Imbugd - 99 1.8t
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To be fair, its more that you are operating it unsafely then it is inherently unsafe. Once you know its broken and continue to run it anyway it changes from bad design to operator error.

Its a 20 amp motor your running, which is 240 watts of power flowing through there. Go find a 200 watt halogen and see how much heat that puts off. The difference you were seeing between your setting and its speed seems to have been absorbed by your dash plastic.

Its a little surprising you didn't blow a fuse with the melting like that, but it was apparently creating its own. This is why you don't continue to operate something, especially a relatively high power electric thing, when you know its faulty. There have been many a car fire from things like this.

The design is a bit archaic. They run the juice through a bank of resistors to lower the speed of the blower motor. Difference betwwen low power and high power? You burning off x watts of heat with a bunch of resistors. Theres a PWM mod for this that brings it up to date.

Get that thing replaced instead of messing with your damaged one.
 
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