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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having this issue it is a 2000 VW golf, and I have a P1128 code , rpms rise and engine jerks but only twice then normal until I come to another stop , also twice the car wouldn't turn on unless I would rev the engine at start up but there was about a 2 month gap between both of those times , and everyone says the code is saying MAF but I have changed that twice it just seems like an endless amount of possibilities any help would be very appreciated
 

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5/23/10 <3
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Did you put a new or used MAF in the car? What brand? Do you have a scanner that will read live data?

not sure on the brand but it was off amazon, was one I used previously before and my reader isn't anything special its a 20 dollar reader from walmart, reads engine codes and maybe couple trim code s
 

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The fuel trim; is definitely, something that needs to be checked: + or - 10% is considored in the normal range.


17536/P1128/004392 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean

Possible Symptoms

Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active
Possible Causes

Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor faulty
Oxygen Sensor Control faulty
Oxygen Sensor(s) faulty
Fuel Injector(s) faulty

Possible Solutions
Check Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Check Oxygen Sensor Control
Check Oxygen Sensor(s)
Check Fuel Injector(s)


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As to the maf sensor, if you have the original maf; you might check and see if this is still good and if the readings are in spec.

Let us know; what brand and part number, the new mafs are, cheap aftermarket versions, can make a engine run horribly.


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Give us some more info about your Golf and let us know, how testing and the throttle body seems to be, maf info, fuel trims, etc, we can fo from there. Thanks.


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This looks like, it is probably a Chinese knockoff part; I would consider, returning it and getting a Bosch oem sensor. You might, consider; cleaning your original Bosch maf and reinstalling it back on the car and see if that helps, how the car runs. VW's do not like cheap aftermarket parts and many times, prematurely fail or they are defective out of the box, making your car run worse then it did in the first place.

It is best, to diagnose things correctly; looking at live data, you can determine, if the maf readings are in spec.


CRC MAF cleaner:
CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner (11oz) - 05110


The more you work on these cars; the more, you realize, how crucial oem parts are, to get them to work correctly and be reliable long term! Contrary, to popular belief; you actually save money and brain damage, by using correct high quality oem parts, rather then, cheap Chinese parts, the market is flooded with these days. FCEPEURO, is a great supplier with a lifetime warranty; something, to consider, if you plan on keeping the car, long term.
 

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What sort of testing and troubleshooting have you done and what were the results?

It is best to troubleshoot things correctly and through a process of elimination, find the problem, rather than throwing expensive new parts of the issue and hoping for a positive result, new parts may or may not fix whatever issues you're dealing with.

Looking at live data can be very helpful; for example on the maf readings, observing what the readings are at idle and at wide-open throttle or "WOT". If the maf does not read to normal spec; then you are pretty much guarantee the mafis defective, requiring replacement and we always recommend a OEM Bosch part, from a reputable supplier, as there are many fake and Counterfeit bosch parents being sold these days, especially on Amazon and eBay.

Note: look at the Ross Tech link to a .pdf discussing how to test maf sensors and how to determine, if the readings are in spec @ idle and WOT.

We try to always ask about trouble codes; what trouble codes are being seen and then look them up on the Ross Tech site. Their code definitions, then can give you guidance, on what things to test, at times vw specific info, that can be really helpful, the actual meaning of the trouble code etc. By following their testing advice; you can confirm the parts are is in the normal spec and solve problems that way.

Again, this is a process of elimination, troubleshooting problems but it is the most effective, intelligent, cost effective and solid way of working, to isolate things, narrow down the issues you are experiencing and finally find the source of things, that is causing the problems you're experiencing. You can do this and your car is fixable but it just takes some testing troubleshooting on your end to finally find the problem and get back on the road! :)



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