Water temp adapter install
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water temp adapter
thanks for info-first i think i will siphon water out of plastic container. Some, before they cut hose, put a small hole in bottom of hose so water will drain slow into some type of container. Dont want a mess.
called permatex and they suggested to put their high temp sealant, made for this application, around threads of sender, and that i sould still get a good ground.
One concern i have is the sender, which is screwed tight aganist body of adapter, comes out only 1/25" in the inside of adapter. Hope this is enough to give proper reading.
thanks for info-first i think i will siphon water out of plastic container. Some, before they cut hose, put a small hole in bottom of hose so water will drain slow into some type of container. Dont want a mess.
called permatex and they suggested to put their high temp sealant, made for this application, around threads of sender, and that i sould still get a good ground.
One concern i have is the sender, which is screwed tight aganist body of adapter, comes out only 1/25" in the inside of adapter. Hope this is enough to give proper reading.
beiieve it will be ok-but if water leaks out dont know what i will do because the sender is tight aganist adapter-but i think this is where the special sealant will help.
dont know how this works but the permatex is a soft sealant, and still will take 400 f temp, and is also a thread locker. Ill find out soon.
one good thing about these nb's-you learn how to do a little(or is it a lot) mwchanic work-you better learn if you go performance.
dont know how this works but the permatex is a soft sealant, and still will take 400 f temp, and is also a thread locker. Ill find out soon.
one good thing about these nb's-you learn how to do a little(or is it a lot) mwchanic work-you better learn if you go performance.
As The Cheat said, keep cranking the sender down onto the adapter until it leaks no more. After every drive, I had to keep cranking and I have been good for 10 months now. Trust me, when the metal gets warm, you can turn it. By the way, I used high temp teflon tape and had no problems with grounding, bad readings, or leaks. Definitely place something under your car to catch the coolant...you may want to wear rubber gloves also because the coolant really dries the skin. I used the larger adapter and it was a bi*^& to put on, but it is very effective.
Just got my 42 designs vdo water temp installed. I have boost-water temp and oil temp gauges in a bernt pod.
The water temp was easy-i had the 1" adapter - the adapter went into hose very easy. I did cut a small slice in the the hose and bent hose with my hands to aim the stream better to container underneath nb.
After my hose, well ill put it this way- took its leak ,I sliced it in half and took about a inch off of one end. On the coolant- you will drain a little bit more than what is in your plastic container. Have a little coolant ready you may loose a very small amount.
Tighten clamps and installed wires and I was ready to go. Drove nb a while and no leaks what so ever. I believe the permatex high temp sealer that i put on sender threads really helped. Permatex told me it was made for this kind of application and would with stand 400 f temp, and after so many hours would create a good bond. My ohm meter told me i also had a good ground.
My temp gauge started reading at 100 f then moved slowly to 190range, and at a somewhat long idle reached 212 f. Makes a good drop in temp , especially in idle, with ac on. That fan does help.
I have two questions;
1. The vdo black face gauges are wired to dimmer, but the lights in gauge face are to low with dimmer switch turned all way on. I need more light in all three gauge faces. They are grounded to one of the bolts holding the switch box under dash-my ohm meter shows a good ground. Maybe this is normal.
2. I dont quite understand the temp gauge reading-it has 180 and has three marks between the 180 and 220. I think the first mark after 180 is 190 then 200 and then a big jump to 220. Am i correct-if this is right it was fairly close to my vag readings, especially in higher temps.
I want to thank all of you for your help-now to install my oil temp-- 42 desighs reco. installation of sender to #10 plug on top of filter. Some say no- you dont get good reading-go to oil pan. So i need some advice here. Getting to top of oil filter will not be a picnic.
Also I plan not to run seperate plus wire to switch #75 in box. Seems to me i could splice into plus wire coming out of water temp gauge.
The water temp was easy-i had the 1" adapter - the adapter went into hose very easy. I did cut a small slice in the the hose and bent hose with my hands to aim the stream better to container underneath nb.
After my hose, well ill put it this way- took its leak ,I sliced it in half and took about a inch off of one end. On the coolant- you will drain a little bit more than what is in your plastic container. Have a little coolant ready you may loose a very small amount.
Tighten clamps and installed wires and I was ready to go. Drove nb a while and no leaks what so ever. I believe the permatex high temp sealer that i put on sender threads really helped. Permatex told me it was made for this kind of application and would with stand 400 f temp, and after so many hours would create a good bond. My ohm meter told me i also had a good ground.
My temp gauge started reading at 100 f then moved slowly to 190range, and at a somewhat long idle reached 212 f. Makes a good drop in temp , especially in idle, with ac on. That fan does help.
I have two questions;
1. The vdo black face gauges are wired to dimmer, but the lights in gauge face are to low with dimmer switch turned all way on. I need more light in all three gauge faces. They are grounded to one of the bolts holding the switch box under dash-my ohm meter shows a good ground. Maybe this is normal.
2. I dont quite understand the temp gauge reading-it has 180 and has three marks between the 180 and 220. I think the first mark after 180 is 190 then 200 and then a big jump to 220. Am i correct-if this is right it was fairly close to my vag readings, especially in higher temps.
I want to thank all of you for your help-now to install my oil temp-- 42 desighs reco. installation of sender to #10 plug on top of filter. Some say no- you dont get good reading-go to oil pan. So i need some advice here. Getting to top of oil filter will not be a picnic.
Also I plan not to run seperate plus wire to switch #75 in box. Seems to me i could splice into plus wire coming out of water temp gauge.
Glad to hear I made your install easier. 
As for oil temp, what thread is your sender for the oil temp? 1/8-27 or M10x1. If it's 1/8-27, by all means go to your local Autozone and pick up the Sunpro adapter pack for $5. You'll need the M14x1.5 for the drain plug hole. The pan is a better idea, because the oil in the pan is constantly circulating and the sender is always touching oil. If your sender is M10x1, I think 42 has the adapter for that, but be careful! It's brass, and doesn't like torque at all. You might find an M10x1-M14x1.5 adapter at a speed shop, but 42 for sure has it. Installing it is as easy as draining your oil. No grounds to worry about, just thread the sender in the adaptor, and replace your drain plug with it. Take it for a spin, and then tighten it up some more, being super-careful. No threadlock or teflon however on the adapter-pan threads. You need that good ground for an excellent temp reading.
As for oil temp, what thread is your sender for the oil temp? 1/8-27 or M10x1. If it's 1/8-27, by all means go to your local Autozone and pick up the Sunpro adapter pack for $5. You'll need the M14x1.5 for the drain plug hole. The pan is a better idea, because the oil in the pan is constantly circulating and the sender is always touching oil. If your sender is M10x1, I think 42 has the adapter for that, but be careful! It's brass, and doesn't like torque at all. You might find an M10x1-M14x1.5 adapter at a speed shop, but 42 for sure has it. Installing it is as easy as draining your oil.
No grounds to worry about, just thread the sender in the adaptor, and replace your drain plug with it. Take it for a spin, and then tighten it up some more, being super-careful. No threadlock or teflon however on the adapter-pan threads. You need that good ground for an excellent temp reading. thanks for info-my sender is M10X1(probably 42 is reco sender on oil filter body)-so what do i need to do-get adapter from 42or does autozone have the adapter and sender.
Doing this, if you have your oil changed, you would make them aware of sender.
I am wondering about the routing of wire to sender on oil pan.
Doing this, if you have your oil changed, you would make them aware of sender.
I am wondering about the routing of wire to sender on oil pan.
I do my own oil changes, so it's not a big deal to me at all. You might however wish to make them aware of such adapter being brass (you'll need the 42 adapter as it's M10x1...it's $8). As for the wiring, all you'll have to do is drop a wire straight down from the fire wall. I'll put my car on ramps and show you. Give me till Tuesday and I'll have a pic or two of my wire setup. I need to check my sender...it's been 4800 miles since I tightened. You'll go a lot less on your oil than I do on mine (10k intervals for me), so you can check the sender every time. I think I dropped the wire down, ziptied it to my sway bar, to my dogbone mount, and then to the frame right beofre the pan. Nice and out of the way. If I was in KY, I'd gladly do your oil changes for you.
If I was in KY, I'd gladly do your oil changes for you. I need to get me a set of ramps anyway-a oil change would be easy with ramps.
By the way went down to auto zone and looked at the sun pro kit-it is what they call metric adapter kit, it includes 5 brass bushings adapting electrical and mechanical gauges/senders to metric thread engines.
it includes
m10x1 to 1/8" npt
m14x1.5 to " "
The sender is stainless but does screw into 2 of bushings. If the m14 will thread into my oil pan it should work-i think nb has a gasket around present oil pan plug. Since nb is still under warranty(7500 miles) i haven't checked plug. But i will. Just had a oil change with syn. but i could drain and install sender and put oil back in.
Its a shame but 4 yrs ago i had two heavy duty metal ramps and i gave them away wish i had them now.
Pics would really be good-you have been a great help-because of you and others i am learning a lot about nb's.
By the way went down to auto zone and looked at the sun pro kit-it is what they call metric adapter kit, it includes 5 brass bushings adapting electrical and mechanical gauges/senders to metric thread engines.
it includes
m10x1 to 1/8" npt
m14x1.5 to " "
The sender is stainless but does screw into 2 of bushings. If the m14 will thread into my oil pan it should work-i think nb has a gasket around present oil pan plug. Since nb is still under warranty(7500 miles) i haven't checked plug. But i will. Just had a oil change with syn. but i could drain and install sender and put oil back in.
Its a shame but 4 yrs ago i had two heavy duty metal ramps and i gave them away wish i had them now.
Pics would really be good-you have been a great help-because of you and others i am learning a lot about nb's.
Question 1. Yep the gauges are a littler dimmer than the speedo gauge. You need to get the perfect match LEDs for brighter lights.Red Rider said:
Question 2. Correct. When you are driving on highway, gauge should read about 190, then about 200-205 when stop-and-go and idling. The gauge does get a little weird after 180, but they are qaulity gauges and worth it.
Glad you got it all installed with no hitches.
The sunpro kit allows installation of a NPT thread sender into a metric opening. If your sender was 1/8-27, they would work great. However, you have an M10x1 sender, so you need to get with 42 and get the drain plug adapter. I remember having an extra one around (M14x1.5-M10x1), but I dunno where it is. I'll look around for ya. It's yours if I have it...my sender was NPT.
I'm glad that you're learning about your car...it always feels good to DIY something, and I'm happy to be a part of it.
It's yours if I have it...my sender was NPT.I'm glad that you're learning about your car...it always feels good to DIY something, and I'm happy to be a part of it.
Cheat and others -thanks very much-you have been very helpful.
Talked to 42 they are sending me the adapter for oil pan that has sender in adapter-all one piece. This would be better-it will solve any oil leak or ground problem.
I ordered perfect match led's that will give me a much brighter display on gauges. This system only comes in blue lighting-but this would match nb instrument cluster color. Each bulb has 9 led's. You cant daisy rig this set up - lot more wires -each gauge sending two wires to a small power regulator then from regulator -two wires one to dimmer and one to ground. Sounds fun
Talked to 42 they are sending me the adapter for oil pan that has sender in adapter-all one piece. This would be better-it will solve any oil leak or ground problem.
I ordered perfect match led's that will give me a much brighter display on gauges. This system only comes in blue lighting-but this would match nb instrument cluster color. Each bulb has 9 led's. You cant daisy rig this set up - lot more wires -each gauge sending two wires to a small power regulator then from regulator -two wires one to dimmer and one to ground. Sounds fun
Got my oil temp adapter installed-the 42 designs adapter for oil pan has a built in sender-all one piece. It is a neat product. I highly reco. this adapter and also the 1" water temp adapter. Both were easy installs-not one leak.
My oil temp runs 180-200. Water temp runs 190 - 210f. The water temp runs 12f lower with ac on when ideling, at fast or normal driving not much difference. Wish i could run fan without ac on. Any suggestions -with how to.
I am a little disappointed with lighting in gauges-the perfect match led's|(9 led's)are brighter than stock but still not enough lighting at night ,especially in water and oil temp gauges. Sometimes i wish for a full face gauge for water and oil temp. My gauges are the vdo black face.
Got a pair of ramps so i could work underneath-but if i get my nb lowered it wont go up the ramps. Oh man
My oil temp runs 180-200. Water temp runs 190 - 210f. The water temp runs 12f lower with ac on when ideling, at fast or normal driving not much difference. Wish i could run fan without ac on. Any suggestions -with how to.
I am a little disappointed with lighting in gauges-the perfect match led's|(9 led's)are brighter than stock but still not enough lighting at night ,especially in water and oil temp gauges. Sometimes i wish for a full face gauge for water and oil temp. My gauges are the vdo black face.
Got a pair of ramps so i could work underneath-but if i get my nb lowered it wont go up the ramps. Oh man
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