i doubt there is anything that could neatly replace it. i expect most users will tell you to peel all of it off as underneath it looks more or less the same but hard plastic.
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The rubberized material was peeling off by the driver door handle I hated the way it looked so I just scraped it all off. The little residue left I cleaned off with goo gone, then rubbing alcohol. It left just a smooth black plastic. Looks better than the rubbery goop with scratches on it. By the way, has VW changed this alwful design on later NB's? I would hope they have changed some of the horrible interior design flaws in later models. I'd love to upgrade from my '99 eventually and would love it if they have made some interior improvements. 
Get some fabric and trim it. Leather always looks good.
Thank you!
x2! to doing this out of the car with a solvent, but the alcohol should be fine, if it cuts this rubbery $hit. Alcohol is not going to hurt plastic, or paints. It's actually a good cleaning agent and drying agent for many things. I use it "denatured" alcohol on vinyl all the time to remove a lot of different kinds of stains.
When in doubt, get a a few more opinions...
x2! to doing this out of the car with a solvent, but the alcohol should be fine, if it cuts this rubbery $hit. Alcohol is not going to hurt plastic, or paints. It's actually a good cleaning agent and drying agent for many things. I use it "denatured" alcohol on vinyl all the time to remove a lot of different kinds of stains.
When in doubt, get a a few more opinions...
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Spraypaint is very hard to get looking decent. The conditions have to be perfect and when you finally pull it off it never lasts. They have climate control systems in paint booths for a reason. The stock dash would be easy to wrap.
Here's a dash piece from another car wrapped in black carbon fibre vinyl, and that stuff has a reputation for being hard to apply:
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Here's a dash piece from another car wrapped in black carbon fibre vinyl, and that stuff has a reputation for being hard to apply:
I'm curtainly not advocating rattle cans, in lieu of properly painting many items that involve primers, sanding, and paint with catalytic hardners which give it durability. I haven't used Fusion but suspect that as it is designed for plastic it has an agent which actually impregnates the plastic causing the bond. That's why I suggested a bonding agent primer for any other type of paint. The durability is all in the preparation and quality of products used. I can state from experience though, that with fan spray nozzles, I can get paint application results that rival a gun. It also takes a week or better for paints to cure, not just the dry to touch that is indicated on the label. It is this curing that creates the ultimate bond and durability. Everyone gets in a rush and wants it "right now". The are also paints that are cured with ultraviolet light. It's like when you have paint work done to the body, no wax for thirty days! Why do you suppose that is! And there are dryers and hardners added to that paint and clearcoat.Spraypaint is very hard to get looking decent. The conditions have to be perfect and when you finally pull it off it never lasts. They have climate control systems in paint booths for a reason. The stock dash would be easy to wrap.
Here's a dash piece from another car wrapped in black carbon fibre vinyl, and that stuff has a reputation for being hard to apply:
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What I see you proposing (I thought you were talking about real vinyl, not vinyl surfaced contact paper) presents it's own challenges. Thermo-formed, adhesive backed, vinyl aftermarket appliqués are one thing, but while it looks great, vinyl faced contact paper is thin, nicks easily, telegraphs dirt and/or imperfections underneath, and always has edges, which from handling, such as on the door of the bezel you've shown, will easily become frayed and loose. They won't stand up long to direct heat from the sun either.
MORAV
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