[Audiomechanic]

Ppl, read!

I was thinking the same thing.

To answer the OP's question, 70% or higher isopropyl alchohol rubbed on with a soft cloth (like an old sock) will remove the outer layers of the "soft touch" paint, effectively polishing out the scratches. The alcohol is not strong enough to actually remove all of the paint, but will help in scratch removal.

For removing the paint, try DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid. It's plastic safe but will strip paint like a mofrapie. Be sure to remove the plastic pieces you want to strip from the vehicle. DO NOT USE CHEMICALS THAT REMOVE/THIN PAINT INSIDE THE CAR OR ANYWHERE NEAR THE CAR FOR THAT MATTER. Also, experiment on a piece of plastic that is inconspicuous and easily removable and cheap to replace if you mess it up. A piece such as the flower vase trim piece would be good.

 

[Audiomechanic]

Thank you!

x2! to doing this out of the car with a solvent, but the alcohol should be fine, if it cuts this rubbery $hit. Alcohol is not going to hurt plastic, or paints. It's actually a good cleaning agent and drying agent for many things. I use it "denatured" alcohol on vinyl all the time to remove a lot of different kinds of stains.

When in doubt, get a a few more opinions...

Alcohol seems to "thin" the "soft touch" (read: rubbery $hit) paint, but I didn't have much luck stripping it all off even with denatured (99.9%) alcohol. It seemed to "smear" the paint around and turned the cloth black, which effectively removed the scratches but not all the paint.

 

[Audiomechanic]

I wouldn't use brake fluid on anything you want to paint.

Why not?

Not being "smart" with you, I genuinly don't know. So I'm askin.

I didn't have much luck with alcohol in actually pealing or stripping the paint off. Even 99% wouldn't take it all off.

 

[Audiomechanic]

How about Krylon "Fusion"? Lots of colors and finishes. Or a good quality bonding agent for plastic before the paint, lot of paint options once you solve the bonding issue; moddled, hammered, etc.

Going to be tough to wrap into voids and the like with vinyl!

You know, I was talking with my wife the other night (since the bug technically is "her" car) and brought up the "hammered finish" paints. I personally think it'd look cool as heck to paint all the black "rubbery $hit" coated pieces in the black hammered paint and then go over that with a matte clear coat to reduce glare.

 

[Audiomechanic]

There actually are specialty primers made specifically for the purpose of priming plastic (not just any old primer like for metal), and clearcoats with catalyst (2 part) that you actuate in inside the rattlecans, also for the purpose of not having to have professional gunning equipment, for the purpose of painting small parts. I can give you a link if you need or would like it. Dashes are mat finish, and dark, for the purposes of anti-glare, but I have seen the center section in a NB done in gloss and it was sharp! I'm not sure just the center section would be a highly objectionable glare issue.

I know I have to do something with my "sides", everytime I have the top down, if is a major effort cleaning them, the rubbery $hit seems to attract everything, and it "sticks". Just bought a mini California Duster for dashes to try and see how that works.

People who can't get quality results with today's rattle cans, are either buying inferior products, the wrong product for the application, not painting in the right conditions, don't know how to apply spray paint (it is an art), or a combination of all.

PS - I think hammered would be killer! Done sparingly.

That's some good info rat thur.

A link would be sweet! I am by no means an expert (or even novice) painter.

 

[Audiomechanic]

Here's the link, you're looking for the SEM Primer and the Catalyzed Clearcoat Products. They have VW body paint colors here in rattle cans also, but for touch up you'll never marry it into you're existing paint. I'm not sure what you would ever use it for, except I found this looking for the ability to match my real NBC color on a toy car I'm doing to match. Another thread.
https://www.paintscratch.com/cgi-bin/place_order2.cgi

There is also a non-automotive primer "XM Primer" (this is the name and the Google) which will probably work well on plastic, I have used it on glass which is a very difficult surface to bond to without using heat cured paints. You won't find it at HD or Lowe's! lmao

The biggest trick to spray painting (always use a paint with a fan spray nozzel), is even, overlapping strokes, and many very thin, light coats, allowing drying time in between. Helps with the bond and the elimination of runs and orange peel. Painting a 6" x 6" piece might take 45 min to an hour just to paint, as opposed to the typical DIYer who in 15 minutes has something painted and reinstalled. Another tip, very, very few ppl know, between each coat and after use, turn the can upside down and spray until the paint stops spraying. The nozzel won't clog this way and start "spurting" paint globs.

If you wan't a good job, paint a few samples first and don't be in a hurry. If it requires two cans to gain some experience, it will be worth the cost of the second can. Lacquers, which result in the best finish, are also the hardest to spray.

Thanks, Roger! That is some VERY helpful info which I will definitely employ.