What is this Hose part #

Billymade

Thanks for the reply. the 034 Motorsports one looks about right and is a good price. I will call them and make sure it will fit. I am hoping this will solve the low air flow/faulty secondary air injection pump code that has persisted in this car for several years.

Thanks

nope

clumsypooch said:

Billymade

Thanks for the reply. the 034 Motorsports one looks about right and is a good price. I will call them and make sure it will fit. I am hoping this will solve the low air flow/faulty secondary air injection pump code that has persisted in this car for several years.

Thanks

Click to expand...

that hose in the picture comes from the PCV valve below and the valve cover and go's to the hocky puk valve, it feeds back into
the intake.

Nope, the low flow secondary air pump is another problem. Check the pumps hoses for leaks since those are hard plastic they get brittle with the heat, inspect very closely. I found hairline cracks in two places in mine.

Thanks esse10.

Seems pretty absurd to pay $50 bucks apiece for those cheap pump hoses. Is there another option to replacing them if they have a few hairline cracks. Can they be wrapped with high temp tape, or something.

Hey, my hoses kept disintegrating; since I live in the New Mexico desert! I got tired; of spending $50 to $75 per hose from Volkswagen. I went to my local hardware store and found some sump discharge hose, that is the same diameter! It almost looks identical; I removed the connector ends; put the hose in the middle, wrapped the ends with some tape, all done! It has been holding up well so far! The plastic; isn't as hard as the stock hose and I hope will be more durable, my hoses would become VERY brittle and just crack like crazy!


It was available in bulk; at my local ACE hardware store; it was along the lines of this stuff: (take your old hose with you; remove the ends and match up the correct hose to fit)

Black Sump Pump Discharge Hose:

https://www.google.com/webhp?source...charge+hose&tbm=shop&spd=17768053785051343018

jb weld

clumsypooch said:

Thanks esse10.

Seems pretty absurd to pay $50 bucks apiece for those cheap pump hoses. Is there another option to replacing them if they have a few hairline cracks. Can they be wrapped with high temp tape, or something.

Click to expand...

Why sure, I just bought a $4 JB weld at walmart and patch those cracks up, it's been 1-2 years ago and still good. Remember they are hard to see so You need to twist/bend the old hose a little.

Thanks for the suggestions. Both are good ideas. I am hoping I can get that code to disappear.

Billymade - did you just use duct tapr or electrical tape. Also, any special fitting between the old ends and the new hose, or just smoosh them together and tape them up.

If I can find a few cracks/holes that look suspect I might just try the JB weld. If the hoses look beyone bad, I will go with the sump hose route.

Thanks

Hey, I just took the old connectors off the old hose; put them on the hardware store sump hose and used electrical tape to seal the ends. There is a smooth section and I put the smooth section, right where the old one was, so it would fit the hose holder/plastic retainer.
I was going to glue or put sealer on the ends but just did the electrical tape, to do a quick seal job and seal it later. Well, its been in the car for months and its fine; a more permanent solution, maybe sealing it with epoxy or something like that. The hose wasn't expensive; looked almost identical to the stock hose and worked perfect! I couldn't believe; how the ends went right on and fit so well! Its cheap and works great; probably, the best functional and visually stock solution, out there!

code

Another thing you need to check to see if the code clears is make sure the cambi valve is opening up when the pump is running. It could just be dirty and sticking shut or staying open. If you have never cleaned that valve it's time to do so.
Fallow the output hose from the air pump it connects directly to the cambi valve.

Hey, when it comes to OEM parts; the vin # is the best way to get the correct parts. When it comes to AFTERMARKET rebuilt parts; they seem to go by engine code, over the vin #. I try to buy all oem parts; to be sure, I am getting high quality and long lasting parts.

When it comes to your alternator; there were a number of oems: Hitachi, Valeo, Bosch etc.; since you are replacing your alternator anyway, you could pull it and read the part # off of the part itself. They typically are 90 or 120 amp; depending on the car. If you are buying it at a local auto parts store; just take it down there with you and they will match it up, if you are worried about getting the wrong one.

When it comes to finding the right part #; I use VW National E Store and then use the part # to find the best prices online.

Volkswagen National eStore

For example: your car with the APH code: comes up with 70, 90, or 120 Amp variations for the alternator.

http://parts.vw.com/parts/2001/Volkswagen/Beetle/GL/?siteid=9&vehicleid=206923&section=ALTERNATOR

Bosch makes many of the typical electrical pars on our cars; so, I use their auto parts finder online:

https://www.boschautoparts.com/

cheaper route maybe

There could be a cheaper route if you know 100% sure the alternator is bad. Take your alternator to an auto electric shop and they can replace the voltage regulator that's mounted inside it, $20-25 part and maybe another $25 labor. 90% of the time that's all that go's bad in those things.