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I would definately step up to the 5w40 considering the mileage, in colder climates 0w40 is fine for winter oil. 5w40 for Diesels is a different formulation, and not the correct oil.

Castrol Edge or Mobil 1 or Royal Purple. Mobil 1 for sure, and I believe Royal Purple are true Class 4 full synthetics, Castrol is not. Call around your local corner auto parts stores. In any of these brands w30 is fine as they will be the high end of the 30 range. Wally World also carries it in some markets. Many O'Reilley's. Who has it varies widely from market to market.

I believe most, if not all of the Dealers use Castrol Edge, and the oil is available there.

MORAV
 

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5/23/10 <3
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I use Castrol Syntec 5w40 year round. I get it at Autozone, Advanced, etc. Been using it for over 5 years with no problems.
 

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Where do you live? 5w-40 is awfuly thin and these cars with mileage like to burn a bit more oil. Climate would tell me what to use. Mobil 1 is my preffered. Solid, good oil. Cheap at Walmart.

How many miles you put on it a day?

P.S. Castrol is B.P. If you like to think about where your money is actually going.
 

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Sorry! Absolutely wrong!

Where do you live? 5w-40 is awfuly thin and these cars with mileage like to burn a bit more oil. Climate would tell me what to use. Mobil 1 is my preffered. Solid, good oil. Cheap at Walmart.
Sorry, to get a "thicker" oil you would have to go to a Xw50. I think perhaps you don't understand the identifying nomenclature. In a multi-weight, i.e. XwXX, the left side is referred to as the winter weight, the right side is the weight of the oil. If you are thinking a 10w30 or 15w30 is a "thicker" oil it is not.

VW gasoline engine specification is for 5w40, with an acceptability of 5w30 if 40 is not available. It must also conform to the following specification VW502.00 or VW500.00 or VW501.01, for a Turbo, it must conform to VW 502.00. This is shown on the oil's labeling.
The "5" winter weight is required in VWs for proper "oiling" at cold start-up.
In a cold winter climate, such as yours, and the OPers, you may want to use 0w40 in the winter for better oil flow at start-up, as long as it also conforms to these specifications. And you will find that Mobil 1 does as it is a true Class 4 Synthetic.

VW specifically excludes Warranty Coverage for any oil that does not conform to these specifications.

You can Google "oil viscosity" to learn alot about oils and to confirm what I am telling you. You can also check your Owners Manual to confirm what I am telling you about VW requirements. Regardless of what others are saying, 5w40 year round in most climates, 0w40 in the cold months of extreme winter climates. There is nothing here that is debatable. These are the facts. I don't know why ppl want to go against what the R&D Engineers of these engines designed them to use.

MORAV
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well Said....

Ive been using 5w30 like the owners manual says, however with the higher mileage want to go to the 5w40 Mobil 1....

Im in Michigan...
 

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I don't know where in MI you are, but I feel certain any VW Dealer will concur with the use of 0w40, if not the preference, for it this time of year. Overnight the engine drains down, the oil cools and thickens, and needs the lower winter weight to get into the engine quickly and lubricate when started cold. And always allow the engine a few minutes to warm at idle, to get the oil flowing, before attaining any high RPMs. And never, ever, "rev" a cold engine!

Stay warm!

MORAV
 

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I perfectly understand what the 5w-40 and 10w-40 is.

If you think there is no difference in thickness ( viscosity ) between 5 and 10 weight. Then you are wrong. If he lives in Michigan where it gets really cold, then maybe 5w-40 is something he may want to use. Thats almost the same thing as saying there is no difference between a synthetic 5w-40 and a conventional 5w-40. Im sure they just create random weights of oil for no reason?:confused: Most oils wont freeze or get past their cold pour point until prolly -40 degrees celsius.

Might as well tell someone with a blown oil control ring to use 0 weight synthetic. LoL

Happy oiling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Been using the MOBIL 1 - 0w40 for winter and going to use Castrol Syn 5w40 for the rest of the year.
Mobil has a video explaining the 0w oil for cold climates

Can you use 0w all year ?
 

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What's the saying? Oh contrare, Pierre!

I perfectly understand what the 5w-40 and 10w-40 is.

If you think there is no difference in thickness ( viscosity ) between 5 and 10 weight. Then you are wrong. If he lives in Michigan where it gets really cold, then maybe 5w-40 is something he may want to use. Thats almost the same thing as saying there is no difference between a synthetic 5w-40 and a conventional 5w-40. Im sure they just create random weights of oil for no reason?:confused: Most oils wont freeze or get past their cold pour point until prolly -40 degrees celsius.

Might as well tell someone with a blown oil control ring to use 0 weight synthetic. LoL

Happy oiling.
I am not hear to antagonize, argue with, or insult other Orgers, but when responding to the Original Poster, I am going to take exception to bad or incomplete information from others when I know better, as I believe they are entitled to correct information if not stated as opinion. I might only suggest you do some research about what you write or prefice what you write with "I think" or "In my opinion". You seem a bit confused about the "winter weight" designation to the left of the "w" and the actual viscosity to the right. Perhaps if you read on, and then go to the link I have put up, for a thorough read of the subject, you will better understand the XwXX designation.

There is an absolule and significant difference between a "winter weight" of 5 and 10! But it's not the actual thickness (viscosity) of the oil. The left viscosity number simply identifies the "flow ability" of the oil at cold start-up and has nothing what so ever to do with the actual viscosity of the oil. That is stated on the right side. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F, the typical engine operating temperature.

Since VW engines are very slow to warm, it is even more important for the use of a 5w or 0w.The oldest manual I have is a '02, so I can't speak for VW requirements before '02, but an engine run with a 10w oil, would be warranty voided from '02 on. I am not even aware of any 10w oil that will meet VW 500.00, 501.01, 502.00, or more current specifications. Nor can I speak for the newer 2.5L as I have seen no oil specification requirements for these engines.

VW North American specifications call for 5w40, 5w30 only when w40 is not available, do you think there may be a reason they make no mention of a 10w. With age, you would want the "winter weight" maybe even lower due to an aged, weakened oil pump and possible sludge build up. Regardless, a lower "winter weight", like 0w can do no harm, only good.

For those of you who have mis-conceptions about oil or want a real good, mostly understandable, in mostly layperson terms, factual education, here is the best read I have ever found about oil viscosity, synthetics, and their applications.

Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms

daughtersbeetle made the right choice, based on good information, but this read will only reinforce that choice, but also help others to make the right one.

MORAV
 

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I use Castrol Syntec 5w40 I changed it from regular oil 2 years ago, and it has done beautifully. I have put 18,000 miles on Ernie since I changed.
 

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Should have noticed a slight increase in your gas mileage also. An unsung benefit to synthetic.
 

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I use Castrol Syntec 5w40 I changed it from regular oil 2 years ago, and it has done beautifully. I have put 18,000 miles on Ernie since I changed.
I'm glad to read this, I have been using 5W-30 Castrol GTX dino oil in ours for years. The manual said you could use 5W-30 and since the 2.0 isn't a turbo I figured it would be fine. When I had the pan off not too long ago everything looked great. No sludge at all and the pick up was spotless. I'm now considering using Syntec 5W-40 because that's all I use in my wifes 1.8T Passat. Many years ago (like the mid eighties) there were stories that if you switched from dino to synthetic, oil would leak from every seal in the engine and swithing back didn't fix it either. All seals had to be replaced. Maybe it was urban legend, but switching to full synthetic and having leaks has crossed my mind. The Beetle does use about a quart every 1k miles too and I wonder if a 5W-40 would help this at all.
 

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Mobile 1 Extended/High Mileage 0w-30 in fall, winter and spring and 0w-40 in summer.

I also use a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil every 3rd oil change.
 

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I'm glad to read this, I have been using 5W-30 Castrol GTX dino oil in ours for years. The manual said you could use 5W-30 and since the 2.0 isn't a turbo I figured it would be fine. When I had the pan off not too long ago everything looked great. No sludge at all and the pick up was spotless. I'm now considering using Syntec 5W-40 because that's all I use in my wifes 1.8T Passat. Many years ago (like the mid eighties) there were stories that if you switched from dino to synthetic, oil would leak from every seal in the engine and swithing back didn't fix it either. All seals had to be replaced. Maybe it was urban legend, but switching to full synthetic and having leaks has crossed my mind. The Beetle does use about a quart every 1k miles too and I wonder if a 5W-40 would help this at all.
I had always believed the leaking seal thing also, and I believe at one time that was true. Urban Legend or not, I have had several ppl tell me that is no longer the case. Make the change and follow-up by letting us know if your oil consumption decreases, I'm sure many would like to know. And yes, at least up through '05, only the T required synthetic, so changing to syn is simply an upgrade, but by no means a requirement.

Btw, Castrol was a great choice. In my vehicles that I don't run synthetic in, I haven't used anything else for over 20 years. With the introduction of Castrol High Mileage, that is now what those remaining vehicles get, and I sometimes go 20k+ miles between changes. I have one with 270k, one with 230k, and I just lost one to a roll over at 380k, two others retired at over 440k (all GM). All with original engines and never a rebuild of any kind. With these obtainable mileages on these engines I have never felt a need to change to synthetic.

Three Bugs have always gotten Castrol Syn 5w40, but I'm considering switching to Mobil 1 0w40, both for better "flow ability" at cold start temperature, and because Mobil 1 is a true, Class 4, 100% synthetic, Castrol is a Class 3, and is not 100% synthetic (regardless of the fact it is allowed to be called a "full" syn).

MORAV
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well here is an update on the MOBIL 1 - 0w40
My daughters beetle 1998 2.0 gas now has 132,000, have been using 5w30 with some oil consumption between oil changes
Just checked the oil level, since using the MOBIL 1 ow40, there has been no level change ?
so, Im going to stay with the Mobil 1 all year instead of the castrol 5w40 for summer.

What do you think about that ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Oh, I change the oil every 3000 , I know it can go longer....I dont mind spending a little xtra if it makes her car last longer.

Using Mann filters
 
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