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I had an oil leak and that is all that I thought that it was. The Oil sensor was leaking and I thought it was the oil pan gasket leaking. Once I changed the sensor no more leak. It ran fine while idle; then the next morning. When giving it gas it would cut off. I thought it was the fuel pump. So I brought a new one changed the fuel pump and thought that was the end of my problem. No, it still would cut off when givning it gas. So I found out that one of the fuel lines going to th engine; was leaking and replaced they yesturday with my dad. Still when pressing the gas cut off. Found out that the ignition coil needed to be change one of the corners was broke off. My dad said that is why it could have been slo, to excelerate cause it was running on 3 cylinders instead of four. Yet we were not able to figure out why it would run in idle but when you give it gas it would cut off.
The service engine light is on yet we don't know what it could be.
HELP PLEASE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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5/23/10 <3
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Have you scanned the car for codes?
 

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Not yet I was hoping that someone may have had the same problem that I have had. With possible suggestions to check. I have to remember that the car has been sitting for over a year and the previous owners didn't care to fix any of the issues. Now that is a great car and I would like to get it up and running in good condition. Once I have done a code check I will post the results. Thanks.
 

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GIve us more info; have you tested the fuel pressure, what brand pump did you install (cheap aftermarket versions; can cause problems, stick with oem vdo or bosch), how are the fuel trims, have you cleaned/aligned the throttle body and have you checked for any vacuum leaks? Lots of possibilities: you need to check over things, like live data and pending codes, to give you, some ideas, as to what is possibly going on and find the problem. Give us the history of the problem, any repairs done, any info that your testing, troubleshooting, looking at live data, pending codes, reveal and we can go from there, thanks.
 

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OkI did a diagnostic test today and here are the codes that came up.
p1425 Manufacture Specific Code
p1472 MSC
p1544 MSC
p1451 MSC
p 1421 MSC

Then there was other codes that came up:
PO341 Camshaft position sensor circuit A range/performance bank 1 or single sensor
PO102 Mass or volume air flow circuit low input
PO113 intake air temp sensor/circuit high input
PO121 throttle/pedal position sensor switch A circuit range/perform

Also I found out that the distributor cap is broken and it was running on 3 cylinders instead of for which I will buy a new one for that. Now the other issues I don't now if it will be a sensor that has to change or something else. Any input would be helpful.

history is that it had a timing chain problem that the previous owner couldn't figure out. Once it changed hands my boyfriend fixed that and it was fine. Sat for at least a year or more in the yard and was not driven till now. The fuel lines to the engine had to be replaced me and my father did that cause the clips on them were broken and we had to remove the old ones and put on new clamps and hoses.
Billmade that is all of the information that I have on the car at the moment I hope that I can find solutions.
 

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That is a TON of codes; the odds of all those related parts, failing at once, is very remote. We have seen, allot of these; where there is a electrical problem, that kills the power to all these related parts. Many times, it can be a relay; the fuel pump relay #409, is a common failure and this will kill power, to many things and cause a hard or no start issue.

#409 location position #4: (this location; is under the dash, where your knees typically are sitting in the drivers seat; unscrew some torx screws and you can remove the black plastic cover, to expose the relays)


If you decide, to replace it; stick with oem brand Stribel or genuine vw (Stribel, makes them for VW; the circuit board has their name imprinted on it). I had a no start problem; I took my relay apart; cleaned the dirty electrical contacts, spray off with electrical cleaner or rubbing alcohol and it then, it started immediately, relay worked fine, I ordered a new one and replaced it later, when it came in. This way, I was able to drive the car; until my parts showed up. Do NOT buy cheap aftermarket fuel pump relays; from your local auto parts stores, they do not work correctly and cause odd issues (like the car can die; when you open the door, go figure).

One thing, to keep in mind, is that trouble codes; remain in memory, until they are cleared. So, you might start with clearing the codes and see, what comes back.

Also, if it sat for a whole year; it maybe the gasoline is bad, has lost its combustion ability and this will cause, a hard or no start issue. In that case, remove the fuel pump; from under the back seat and siphon out the bad gas and fill with fresh.

A bad or failing fuel pump; is another possibility, you might do a fuel pressure test and see, if it is in spec.

Fuel pressure spec and testing procedures: (click next; to advance to the rest of the pages):

 
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