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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is the story. 2005 beetle conv. 2.0 gas, 46k. All original except for tires. The bug sat for a few months. The wife started it and headed for fuel on a rainy day and car ran fine. After fueling the car ran poorly backfiring and misfiring as she returned home. I originally thought that she must of drove through standing water and that it would dry out. I told her to park the car due to a flashing CEL. I added dry gas and plugged in the Ross-tech VCDS getting following codes(17769, 17978, 16497, 16684, 16687, 16688, 16685). After visual check I cleared codes and restarted the vehicle and the 46684 16687 16688 and 16685 codes reappeared. Like I said 46,000 miles so original plugs, wires, coil etc. So where should I start? Could poor fuel or dirty filter throw all of those codes? could a faulty Coil cause both sides of the coil (1 ,3, 4 cylinders) all misfire? I would appreciate any help before throwing $ away. Thanks for any direction.
 

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ignition coil

The ignition coil pack is usually the culprit on the multi misfires. I have heard of folks getting hairline cracks on those not visual to the naked EYE. Or since it set for a few months the battery could be bad and the alternator could not keep up with the load and so not provide the proper voltage at the fuel injectors causing misfire on all.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. I think I will try the coil replacement first. I'm seeing a ton of brands available and priced all over the board. Any thought on what brands to avoid?
 

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Instead of throwing parts at the problem; you might get a spray bottle and spray water, around the coil pack and plug wires.... see if it affects, how the car runs. If that doesn't affect anything; I would also, try testing the fuel pressure. We seem; to be having a rash of bad fuel pumps, around here lately (the summer heat; seems to kill these). Get a fuel pressure tester; loan from a local auto parts store or buy one there, or at other places like harbor freight.

vw service manual; fuel pressure testing procedures:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...l_pressure/system_information/specifications/

When it comes to buying the plug wires and/or a coil pack; get oem high quality parts and not cheap poor quality parts from your average auto parts store.

Bosch is a oem for Volkswagen and you should be fine, getting parts from them. Lesser and cheaper brands online; seem to be Bremi and STI; I cannot vouch for their quality but they are cheaper.

You can look up the correct parts; through the Bosch Parts Finder website here:

https://www.boschautoparts.com/

Here are the results; I found:

[Volkswagen Part Number: 06A905409N

Spark Plug Wire Sets Bosch provides premium quality, pre-assembled spark plug wire sets for virtually all American, Asian, and European cars, vans, and light truck applications.
Engine Designation: BGD,BEV

Bosch Part Number:
09839

https://www.boschautoparts.com/auto/...s?partId=09839

amazon; seems to have the best price with free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EQVA4K/...l_4egew4vp33_b


The oem for the Volkswagen 2.0L coil packs; seems to be Beru or Eldor/ERA brands; marked on the genuine vw parts. The aftermarket Huco brand; seems to be failure prone, according to reviews.

- Ignition coil 2.0 liter

Volkswagen part #: 06A905097A

Cheaper brands; have been known to fail, so this maybe a good part to buy direct from your Volkswagen dealer for a genuine VW part or look online for better prices. It will be more; than a cheaper aftermarket part but last longer, in the end... save you money. A coil pack; is not a part, to try to save money on and buy cheap versions/brands.

https://www.google.com/search?q=06A9...ack+06A905097A#q=06A905097A

NOTE: all the above info; I found, online but when getting your parts, be sure to use your VIN #, to guarentee the correct parts for your car.
__________________
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, I hate the idea of growing money until the problem is found. I will be with the vehicle this weekend and if I can keep it idling long enough I will attempt the spray bottle idea and look closer for cracks and corrosion. I've read over the Ross tech code descriptions but the possible causes are many. I keep going back to the first day of the problem with very heavy rain/standing water and running the vehicle on low fuel prior to a fill up. I guess if I can't see arcing on the plugs, wires, or coil I will look closer at the fuel system (pressure or filter). Thanks again and I'll keep you updated.
 

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How low was it run on fuel the first day the problem showed up? If it was very low (much lower than usual), it's possible that debris in the tank was sucked into the pump, possibly clogging the fuel filter. Electric fuel pumps are also cooled by the fuel in the tank, so it if it run very low, the pump is not cooled properly, which can lead to pump failure. This is why pressure testing the fuel system was suggested.

But, I'd check the "simple" things first. Go at it with the spray bottle first. I typically do this in the dark, because you can then see any arcing which occurs. Even before using the spray bottle I've identified arcing on some of my other cars. If you don't see any arcing, then use the spray bottle. Since you're getting misfires on more than one cylinder at a time, my guess is the coil might be the cause (if it's a problem with spark).

Besides fuel and spark, the other thing an engine needs to run is air. But in this case, I'm guessing lack of air isn't the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I put the battery on the charger overnight so it would be ready for the morning. With full charged it would crank strongly but not make an attempt to start. I quite sure it was getting fuel by the noticeable fuel smell near the throttle body. Guessing no spark I removed the secondary air pump for a better visible inspection and noticed moisture on the coil and wires to the point of rust forming on the lower of the three coil bolts. I removed the coil and noticed cracks in the plastic case and melted plastic deposit between 2 & 3 plugs. I will be replacing the coil as soon as I find a decent quality replacement for a fair price. The original was a Temic and Billymade posted some alternative genuine vw replacements. I will attempt to post photos of what I have found. Thanks again for the help.
 

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Bingo! Good job! That is one of the most common 2.0L problems; we see around here! The coils; seem to crack, like that allot! :mad: It can be tough; to find a good coil, at a affordable price; definitely, stay away from cheap brands like: URO, etc.

The latest version from Volkswagen; seems to be marked with the OEM ELDOR.

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2780772/

http://www.eldor.it/content/en/company
 

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2003

Exactly
I bought USA wires / NGK plugs and sadly a Rock Auto Chinese Coil pack. with 110,000 miles on my 2.0 2003 VW beetle conv.
When it was misfiring or basically running on 3 cylinders.
My bug ran great for almost 6 months.
Back to square one same misfiring error code.
This time I went with a Autozone Coil pack from India $175.00 !
The bug fired right up and ran on all 4 cylinders for 2 weeks !?!
Now it runs on 3 cylinders again only at start up and after a minute runs fine.
The first minute the check engine light is flashing on and off
while it barely runs....

Ahhhh any idea's ?!?!
 

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Well, I would want to know the brand, part number of your plugs and wires are (confirm they are good quality and are the right plugs for your car). The coil pack IS suspect... as many here, have had problems with poor quality aftermarket coil packs. I would try; to get a refund, on the Autozone coil pack and order a genuine vw coil pack or oem Eldor/ERA branded part.

If you have any trouble codes; please post them up here, we will go from there.

Based upon the info about your car; the coil pack for your car is:

Volkswagen part # 06A905097A - IGNITION coil
Beetle; 2.0L

Volkswagen National eStore

Don't buy poor quality coil packs; get a genuine vw part or oem Eldor/ERA (the company; that makes the genuine vw part).

https://www.google.com/search?q=06A...hrome&es_sm=91&ie=UTF-8#q=06A905097A&tbm=shop

Look up your spark plugs here:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/index.asp

Look up high quality Bosch parts; like spark plug wires here:

https://www.boschautoparts.com/auto
 

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I would also check the gap on your spark plugs. If they are above .040" it will require too much voltage from the coil and can cause the misfire. When my coil pack went out recently (on a cylinder where the spark plug gap was .043") I replaced the plug with a cheap copper core one that I set at .030" until I could get a quality replacement coil. The car ran fine on the old coil that way. If your plugs are actually gaped at .040" I would try setting them at .035" and see if it that fixes the misfire.
 

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All great Advice
I am on board with an inferior coil pack not being able to
create enough voltage etc. to "Jump the gap"

My error code is the P0303 one.
(Too bad its not cylinder 4 the easiest one to reach)

I'll replace the plug with another (All NGK now)and gap it too .035

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My problem is still not solved. Since my last post I have replaced the ci
Oil pack with OEM and now have great spark but still no start. This weekend I began to investigate a fuel issue and noticed I no longer heard the pump priming when the drivers door was opened. I checked the pump fuse and found it to be good but now power at the fuse with the key on. I attempted to rule out the relay by checking for power at the pump itself but found no power. Now my question is how can I get temporary power to the pump to know for sure its the relay? I also want to look for wiring issues but have not found a problem yet. I look back at my original problem when the vehicle ran but poorly with misfire codes and wonder if it was always a fuel supply issue. Does a pump die slowly? Does a relay fail slowly? Just thinking at this point before I order a other piece of the puzzle. Thanks to all
 

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A bad fuel pump; can cause misfires and it can seem like a ignition issue, when it is in fact a fuel delivery problem. At this point with no power to the fuel pump; you definitely, have a electrical issue.

Fuel pump relays dying; are a known issue with these cars and seeing how you have no power at the plug... I would definitely check or replace the fuel pump relay.

Fuel pump relay location #4: relay marked "409"

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > New Beetle L4-2.0L (BEV) (2004) > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Alarm Horn Relay > Component Information > Locations

Once you get the fuel pump power and working; I would test the fuel pump for correct fuel pressure and volume:

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > New Beetle L4-2.0L (BEV) (2004) > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System Information > Specifications > System Pressure

From what I have seen; fuel pumps, get worse over time. I have seen these characteristics and scenarios, on two different cars lately (1.8T and 2.0L): (I tested using a fuel pressure tester; from harbor freight).

1. hard starting issues; which get worse with time. Hot summer season; seemed to have contributed to its demise.

a. tested good pressure (when running) but was not able to maintain pressure, when the engine was turned off (went to zero). The internal check valve was bad or sticking; required pump replacement. The manual states; After 10 minutes at least 2.0 bar (30 psi) positive pressure should still be present.

2. hard starting issues; when car got hot, wouldn't start. after it cooled off; for a number of hours or overnight, it would start fine.

a. tested good pressure (when running) and maintained pressure, when turned off. Car would misfire; when under load and the problem was fuel starvation (lack of volume). I did not do a volume test but would have been the right test, in retrospect. I replaced the fuel pump and it fixed the problem.

I am sure; there are other possible scenarios but those are two situations; that I ran into and they required a new fuel pump to fix the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
3 weeks later

Sorry for the delay. I only get to the location of the vehicle every few weeks. i pulled the relay (409) and will replace (29.99 ebay) since i don't believe there is any way to test without a donar car. I stopped by a local vw shop and was told to check the crankshaft senr but since i'm not recieving that fault code I can't believe thats the problem. Just checking that i'm understanding what I should be finding as far as voltage. with key in the on position power should be found at the fuse as well as the terminals at the pump itself. which I have power at neither of those. I considered checking the wiring going to the fuel pump but felt no need due to lack of power at fuse. the only reeason im mentioning wiring is that the power rear window motor was replaced on that side recently and thought wiring could be kinked. I will update after I recieve the "409". Thanks again for the assistance and patients.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
back on my own thread

Replaced the "409" relay, have no voltage when the key is in the "on" position voltage but i'm now getting voltage with engine cranking. I still have no sign of fuel and the pump does not prime when door is opened. is there a door sensor that signals the pump to prime? Now that i have voltage to the pump when cranking i feel the speed sensor is working but I noticed in another post regarding the engine speed sensor that the tach should reach 2000 - 2500 rpm when cranking the engine and mine barely gets off of zero. if the engine speed sensor was failing could that effectt the priming process? im still thinking fuel filter and pump but seriously frustrated. sorry for jumping on another thread but reaching for anything out there. it may be time to search for VW help on the Delaware coast and raise the white flag...
 
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