NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Trying to find a unit to do a throttle body alignment on a 1999 AEG 2.0. Any comments on either the iLink 400 Pro, or Vident VAG-II?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,913 Posts
What is your budget; how much are you will to spend? There are many scan tools out there; vcds by ross tech ($199)and obdeleven ($99 or less), seem to be the most popular and widely used.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
Ross=tech is the company that engineered the vcds programming with vw’s approval. If you need support and call them you often get the owner on the line. They are located in southern Pennsylvania and speak perfect English.

All updates are automatic and free. You can do all kinds of things to your car that those other units will be unable to or you’ll have a hard time finding how to do whatever it is that you wish to do.

Likely if you call these other companies support you’ll have to talk to someone in Calcutta or Peking (intentional) who can speak English through a thick accent.

Those companies have pirated Ross-tech’s system because their country, (China) has no intellectual piracy laws.

While I would probably try obdeleven if the opportunity arose because I have heard it works well I probably won’t just because I hate rewarding criminal behavior.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Received my VCDS today. The other units I looked at will not do TBA for a '99. Fired up VCDS atemoted TBA, discovered I needed a different procedure aor one with an actual throttle cable, went ADP RUN, ADP OK, still idles like crap, with no CEL, new battery, new coil, new plugs, new wires, cleaned MAF, replaced Vacuum lines, cleaned Throttle body all before doing the TBA. Any bright ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
No engine codes. there area couple related to the radio and door electronics, nothing related to the engine or transmission.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,913 Posts
So, can you give some more history of the car; how many miles on the engine, aside from a rough idle, how dies the car run (misfires, hesitation, etc)?

To get a sense of how the engine is running; looking at the fuel trims, can be a helpful thing to check:


After 20 years of age, we are seeing allot of fuel delievery issues and in particular, weak fuel pumps (especially an original fuel pump). If you see lean codes, this maybe indicate a bad fuel pump and a fuel pressure test is in order.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,913 Posts
A compression and fuel pressure test; would be good, basic level testing procedures. This can quickly rule out; the possibility of base level issues being a problem:



Check live data, fuel trim levels; consider going over the basics, like compression/fuel pressure tests and report back what you find,. We can go from there. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Compression and fuel pressure are up to spec, with the exception that I think an injector is stuck open, as when you shut it off, the fuel pressure drops. It doesn't hold like my manual says it should. I going to swap coils tonight and see if it makes any difference. I would look at the live data, if I could get it to run long enough to check it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,913 Posts
I had a problem, where the residual fuel pressure would drop; in my case, the check valve in my fuel pump was defective and fixing this , required fuel pump replacement.

So, technically, your fuel pressure is off/low; pulling the fuel rail and seeing if the injectors are leaking (energizer/not energized), using that technique, could rule that out. Based upon my own experience; it could be your fuel pump is bad; the fuel pressure seemed to be in spec @ idle, however it went to zero, when the engine was turned off (unable to maintain residual pressure). A specific injector; could cause a misfire; in the offending injector/cylinder; this would typically throw a code.

Another symptom i was experiencing, was a hard start issue, it was taking longer, longer; for the fuel pump to prime the fuel pressure, before starting because of the stuck open internal check valve and the fuel pump could be heard kicking on longer then normal, to try to get at the correct prime pressure. At the end, i had to cycle the key multiple times; until the pressure got high enough; to allow the engine to start normally and i believe, eventually it wouldn't have started at all. A failing fuel pump, does not typically throw a trouble code but i was getting a lean code, so that can be a clue about a weak or failing fuel pump (you could also check fuel trims with vcds).

If you end up needing a new fuel pump; stick with oem vdo or bosch, the two high quality oem brands we have found, that actually work. We have seen aftermarket fuel pumps, sold online or from most auto parts stores; cause drivability issues and cannot maintain adequate fuel volume under load (the Airtex brand; being particularly notorious for poor quality, low fuel volume under load, causing drivability issues, poor idle).

By the way, did you notice; what brand your fuel pump is and if it is original (the original pimps typically have the vdo and vw/audi logos on them)? It is easy to check: pull up the rear seat, push the carpet to the side, to expose the black fuel pump cover plate, remove the Phillips screws, remove the cover and the pump is exposed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I will have to pull the seat to see, as far as I know the fuel pump is original. When I put the old coil back in it started misfiring all over the place, so the new one went back in, and that went away... Managed to break the dipstick tube in the process of removing the secondary air pump. Replaced that, now to go back thru the fuel system tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,913 Posts
Oh wow!, yeah a 20 year old original fuel pump; along with the results of your fuel pressure testing results, is pointing to it, as a strong possibility of the problem and in need of replacement, either way (add a new fuel filter; fuel pressure regulator for good measure.
The plastic oil dip stick tubes; are notorious for getting brittle from heat and breaking when look at them or touch them! :) i think I am on my 3rd or 4th one; i replaced it so many times, i am losing track! The aftermarket, makes some really nice polished aluminum version but i haven't spent the $100 on one yet.

Good work on your diagnostics and testing; is sounds like you have narrowed things down to fuel delievery issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
The box for the new fuel pump states that a new filter screen need to be installed or the warranty is void. I do not see any place on the new pump for a filter screen, nor can I find one on-line. As the directions that came with it seem to be generic, is this a bogus comment on the box, and there isn't a filter in the tank?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,913 Posts
Disregard this included info; I was installing the same pump in a 2004 Jetta with a 2.0L engine and after reading the info, called Bosch tech support. They said to ignore the printed info and everything; was installed on the pump, as is in the box and I installed the pump, as directed without any issues. The pumps, have been redesigned and revised; so, this might have been included, for a earlier designed pump or just does not relate to the currently shipping pump. I did not have any customer come backs and the pump worked fine; until the customer traded in the car, for something else. I've contacted Bosch tech support a number of times; for their auto parts and they were always excellent, responsive, give me the info I needed, to get the job done.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top