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Window Regulator and Door Lock DIY
This DIY is for Removing and Replacing the Drivers Side Window Regulator, and the Door Latch Lock Control Module Assembly (aka: DLCM). This DIY can be used for Passenger Side Widow Regulator; just remember your left/right orientations.
If you are asking yourself any of the questions below, then your problem might be the WINDOW REGULATOR.
1) Does your window go up half way, stop and then goes back down?
2) Does your window go up very slowly, like it is straining to work?
3) Do you have help push your window up with your hand(s)?
4) While your window was going up, did you hear a snap and then the window dropped with a thunk?
Does any of this sound like your NB? If you answered yes to any two questions it is likely that your problem is/was the WINDOW REGULATOR ...
hnoes: Don’t be scared!!! :scared: For those of average skill, you can do this in a weekend if you try.
TECHNICAL NOTES: This DIY Covers Model Years 1998 thru 2005 and does NOT Cover the Manual Window Regulator. Also it is possible to buy the Window Regulator and Door Sub-Frame as an assembly; doing it this way might save you some time, albeit a bit pricey.
TECHNICAL REQUIREMENT: I have been asked if there is/are alternative steps to this DIY; there are always alternatives; there are a number of Window Regulator DIY's out there, but according to Bentley, this is the better way to do it.
DISCLAIMER: The author(s) assume that you (the reader) are reasonably capable with the automotive tools necessary to get the job accomplished, which means that you won’t glue your fingers together, then break something and then are smart enough to know not to try to blame or post ranting about anyone else if something goes horribly wrong because of it. AGREED?
These instructions were developed using the following NB's...
1) 1998 2.0 liter, 5 speed
2) 2000 1.8T liter 5 speed (Interior Door Panel)
According to eBahn-Bentley the interior layout changed in 1999, so if your NB has a manufacture date in and after 1999, then some or all of the Door Panel removal pics may be incorrect for you; especially the wiring harness.
As always, just remember to offer a simple thank you and credit to the original author if you pass on this information to friends and/or family!!
TIME NEEDED: 4 to 6 Hours; some window regulators have rivets and some have bolts; so be prepared to drill out some rivets.
ITEMS NEEDED: A VW New Beetle Bentley Repair Manual or the Bentley DVD or a Haynes manual.
The black sticky stuff on the backside of the Door Panel Sub-Frame Plate is called Butyl [bew-tull] Tape, aka: "dum-dum",
and no, I have no idea how it got that name; this for the vapor barrier. I am sure many of you have seen it; typically behind the interior door panel there is a sheet of plastic that is attached to the metal frame of the door with this black sticky stuff. I did call the dealer to see what this sealant would cost and it turns out that VW discontinued using it. I ended up getting mine at O'Reilly's autoparts; you can also get it from any body shop. There is still a current debate on whether or not the vapor sealant is needed; I leave that decision to you.
The New Door Lock Control Module will need one 4mm x 10mm screw/bolt, with a Nylon Lock Nut to replace the rivet that connects the plastic mount bracket to the DLCM and two 5/16"-18 x 1/2" screws/bolts with Nylon Lock Nuts to re-mount the DLCM to the Sub-Frame Plate.
PROJECT COST: Drivers Side Window Regulator without Sub-Frame Plate $75.20, and with sub-frame $185.25; plus shipping and taxes. I purchased both Left and Right Window Regulators and the Drivers Side DLCM; my total was $411.36, includes shipping and taxes. The Butyl Tape was $15.35 for the box; taxes included.
Optional: Door Latch and Lock Control Module Assembly (aka: DLCM), varies by model year and hard top or convertible ...
1) ... '98 Drivers Side Only, $276.64
2) ... '99 thru 08, Drivers Side $189.05 and Passenger Side $161.20
3) ... '03 thru '08 Convertible, Drivers Side $140.63 and Passenger Side $120.00.
I inadvertently tossed the receipt for the 4mm Screw/Bolt with nut and the two Screws/Bolts with nuts; I do remember that it was less than a dollar for all of it.
SPECIAL TOOLS: Screw Driver Tool T10011; if you have 4mm 12 Point Star, you really do not need this tool.
WARNINGS: If you do not secure the window properly it may drop suddenly, crack and/or shatter; ensure that you use some type of 3 to 4 wide Inch Duct Tape.
CAUTIONS: For those NB's that have the Immobilizer, I am not certain if a new DLCM has to be programmed to it or not.
RE-INSTALLATION NOTES: Yes; read the last post.
Be careful with all plastic, it will be brittle. If something does not move, look for the screw(s) that you missed? There will be several screws/bolts so do not loose any; I put mine in Ziploc bag(s) and label them. Be sure to mark all wiring connectors in some manner, so you will know which ones connect to which switches and which frame access holes they run through.
So let’s begin...
This DIY is for Removing and Replacing the Drivers Side Window Regulator, and the Door Latch Lock Control Module Assembly (aka: DLCM). This DIY can be used for Passenger Side Widow Regulator; just remember your left/right orientations.
If you are asking yourself any of the questions below, then your problem might be the WINDOW REGULATOR.
1) Does your window go up half way, stop and then goes back down?
2) Does your window go up very slowly, like it is straining to work?
3) Do you have help push your window up with your hand(s)?
4) While your window was going up, did you hear a snap and then the window dropped with a thunk?
Does any of this sound like your NB? If you answered yes to any two questions it is likely that your problem is/was the WINDOW REGULATOR ...
TECHNICAL NOTES: This DIY Covers Model Years 1998 thru 2005 and does NOT Cover the Manual Window Regulator. Also it is possible to buy the Window Regulator and Door Sub-Frame as an assembly; doing it this way might save you some time, albeit a bit pricey.
TECHNICAL REQUIREMENT: I have been asked if there is/are alternative steps to this DIY; there are always alternatives; there are a number of Window Regulator DIY's out there, but according to Bentley, this is the better way to do it.
DISCLAIMER: The author(s) assume that you (the reader) are reasonably capable with the automotive tools necessary to get the job accomplished, which means that you won’t glue your fingers together, then break something and then are smart enough to know not to try to blame or post ranting about anyone else if something goes horribly wrong because of it. AGREED?
These instructions were developed using the following NB's...
1) 1998 2.0 liter, 5 speed
2) 2000 1.8T liter 5 speed (Interior Door Panel)
According to eBahn-Bentley the interior layout changed in 1999, so if your NB has a manufacture date in and after 1999, then some or all of the Door Panel removal pics may be incorrect for you; especially the wiring harness.
As always, just remember to offer a simple thank you and credit to the original author if you pass on this information to friends and/or family!!
TIME NEEDED: 4 to 6 Hours; some window regulators have rivets and some have bolts; so be prepared to drill out some rivets.
ITEMS NEEDED: A VW New Beetle Bentley Repair Manual or the Bentley DVD or a Haynes manual.
The black sticky stuff on the backside of the Door Panel Sub-Frame Plate is called Butyl [bew-tull] Tape, aka: "dum-dum",
The New Door Lock Control Module will need one 4mm x 10mm screw/bolt, with a Nylon Lock Nut to replace the rivet that connects the plastic mount bracket to the DLCM and two 5/16"-18 x 1/2" screws/bolts with Nylon Lock Nuts to re-mount the DLCM to the Sub-Frame Plate.
PROJECT COST: Drivers Side Window Regulator without Sub-Frame Plate $75.20, and with sub-frame $185.25; plus shipping and taxes. I purchased both Left and Right Window Regulators and the Drivers Side DLCM; my total was $411.36, includes shipping and taxes. The Butyl Tape was $15.35 for the box; taxes included.
Optional: Door Latch and Lock Control Module Assembly (aka: DLCM), varies by model year and hard top or convertible ...
1) ... '98 Drivers Side Only, $276.64
2) ... '99 thru 08, Drivers Side $189.05 and Passenger Side $161.20
3) ... '03 thru '08 Convertible, Drivers Side $140.63 and Passenger Side $120.00.
I inadvertently tossed the receipt for the 4mm Screw/Bolt with nut and the two Screws/Bolts with nuts; I do remember that it was less than a dollar for all of it.
SPECIAL TOOLS: Screw Driver Tool T10011; if you have 4mm 12 Point Star, you really do not need this tool.
WARNINGS: If you do not secure the window properly it may drop suddenly, crack and/or shatter; ensure that you use some type of 3 to 4 wide Inch Duct Tape.
CAUTIONS: For those NB's that have the Immobilizer, I am not certain if a new DLCM has to be programmed to it or not.
RE-INSTALLATION NOTES: Yes; read the last post.
Be careful with all plastic, it will be brittle. If something does not move, look for the screw(s) that you missed? There will be several screws/bolts so do not loose any; I put mine in Ziploc bag(s) and label them. Be sure to mark all wiring connectors in some manner, so you will know which ones connect to which switches and which frame access holes they run through.
So let’s begin...
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