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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
About six months ago I "repaired" my window regulator by ordering a kit off of ebay, watching a youtube video, and of course reading over these fine forums. Yesterday when driving home I heard the snap of the cable which was followed by my window slowly falling down into the door.

My question is whether there is a larger problem that could be causing my door to eat regulators? There appeared to be some damage to the rails the last time I replaced the cables, could that cause a subsequent failure?

I saw that most of the replacement regulators also come with the door panel. I am fine switching this out if it would help prevent future breaking, but I would prefer not to as I think that would require me to remove/reinstall the door speaker (why did they use rivets and not screws :( ).

Sorry if this is in the wrong forum location (I am a noob).

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated as winter is coming :)


Oh yea,
2004 2.0 with ~137,000 miles
 

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RAWRAWRAWRAWR
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9 Posts
So they say the higher quality kits with actual metal parts instead of plastic ones tend to work better. I mean, they'll still break faster than a orphan's heart but they'll last A Little Bit longer.

There is no permanent fix from what I've been reading. You may find a kit that works for you for a few years but eventually they will break again. At the most inopportune moments. Like in the dead of winter as you're trying to roll down your window to pay a toll. Or using the kiosk going into a automatic washing machine. Or trying to smoothly flip someone the bird. These are the moments in which they will break again, no doubt.


Do they make fabric and zipper door covers for beetles?
 

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'02 Snap Orange 1.8T/5spd
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152 Posts
If the rails are tweaked it'll just keep eating the guides. I'd spend money on a new assembly and see how you do. I just did the ebay plastic kit for our driver's door. It had eaten the original guides for 2 reasons: 1) the rails were angled to the panel instead of being parallel 2) the rubber window squeegee at the top inside of the door, had been installed upside down. This was causing the glass to grab and sort of roll/bind the rubber, instead of pushing the rubber out of the way. I trued my rails and flipped the rubber squeegee over, and the glass now slides smooth and fast. Will it last? Dunno.:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the replies! I just got another kit in the mail so I will throw it in when I get a chance. The rails did seem a bit off last time I changed it out so maybe there is something I can do there. If this one doesn't last more than six months I will probably ask around to see how much it would be to have a professional replace the panel/rails. Or if it makes it to the warmer weather before calling it quits perhaps I will give it a go myself. I would be fine if the window was stuck in the up position (makes tolls interesting), but constantly fighting gravity is becoming a bit tedious :p

@austinado16 I feel like I read a post somewhere about your odd window squeegee issue when I was searching the forums for guidance a while so I checked that last time, however I will check it again just to be sure.
 

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'02 Snap Orange 1.8T/5spd
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152 Posts
If you purchase a complete panel, it would be a no brainer to install, and probably faster than the time it takes to replace these clips.

The rivets at the speaker are no big deal. Simply use a new, or known sharp drill bit in a variable speed drill. Select a size of bit that's much bigger than the center "pin" that you see in the rivet head. The goal is to have the drill beat cut through the rivet head only. Then the head falls off (or climbs up the drill bit, leaving you with the original hole in the sheet metal, and just the rivet shank. If the shank doesn't fall out on it's own, give it a little tap with a drift, or a philips screw driver, etc. So just place the drill bit in the center of the rivet, and then angle the drill slightly. Blip the trigger. Change the angle of the drill to the opposite side of the rivet, and blip the trigger again. Repeat this, sort of like you want to wallow out the rivet head, and the drill bit will eat through the head without just spinning it.

Buy yourself a rivet gun and the correct size rivets, and you're back in business. Or, remount the speaker using bolts, washers, and nylocks.

The rails are easily straightened, so finesse them accordingly if you decide not to replace the panel.

Lastly, leave the glass loose in the clamps that are part of the clips you're installing. Raise the window to the point where you can still get a 10mm socket on the clamp bolts and before tightening the clamp bolts, shove the window rearward (towards the rear of the car) so that it runs squarely up the channel at the rear of the door. Having the glass running true will help keep the clips from being loaded weird, and breaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks again for all the suggestions! The weather here was super nice over the weekend so I finally got around to fixing my window and recovering my annoyingly orange door panel. This time it was actually the clips that had broken and not the wire like the first time I did the repair. So if these fail I will try and find some more "heavy duty" clips. I thought these were decent, but only half of the assembly is metal and the little part you put the frustrating wires in is actually plastic and that is what failed *sigh*. Anyway, just wanted to post that everything went successfully and thank everyone again for the tips :)
 
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