[Durvelle27]

No, worries, we are here to help; when, you pick up where you left off and move forwards working through the last remaining issues. Thanks.

One thing i do know my wife states it has been driving fine with no issues

 

[billymade]

2001 Beetle 1.8T "APH' Slew of OBD Codes

Fixing the boost lag issues; makes a big difference. The 1.8T has good power; when the boost is right, all the small issues are resolved and the engine, is tuned up right.

 

[Durvelle27]

Hey guys i know it be some time but work been beating me. Made a little progress with the beetle after i couldn't get the OBD to read via VCDS. Found out it was the aftermarket radio i installed that killed communications. But it seems the Timing Belt is fine with no issues but the chain main be a little stretched so i'm going to get that replaced since i'm not comfortable doing timing jobs. Also since this is now my wife's car and she has been mainly driving it she stated it only seemed to shutoff when the gas got low even when the light wasn't on. So after trails, keeping the tank above a quarter it no longer shuts off.

But now today i've been hit with this slew of codes followed by a Brake light and beeping noise



9 Faults Found:
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation
P1340 - 35-00 - -
17536 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean
P1128 - 35-00 - -
17545 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Rich
P1137 - 35-10 - -
17832 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 1: Leak Detected
P1424 - 35-00 - -
17977 - Cruise Control Switch (E45): Implausible Signal
P1569 - 35-00 - -e
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller P1649 - 35-00 - -
16891 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.
P0507 - 35-00 - -
18081 - (Some Reason this code isn't found)
P1673 - 35-00 - -
16955 - Brake Light Switch (F): Implausible Signal
P0571 - 35-10 - -
01683 - Wheel Speed Signals / Vehicle Speed
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Readiness: 0010 1001

 

[billymade]

Jeez, more codes!!!

17748/P1340/004928 - Ross-Tech Wiki

17536/P1128/004392 - Ross-Tech Wiki

17545/P1137/004407 - Ross-Tech Wiki

17832/P1424/005156 - Ross-Tech Wiki

17977/P1569/005481 - Ross-Tech Wiki

18057/P1649/005705 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16891/P0507/001287 - Ross-Tech Wiki

18081 - Speed Signal: Malfunction Message from ABS Controller (no definition info)

16955/P0571/001393 - Ross-Tech Wiki

01683 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Ok, you have quite a few codes; go over and read the above definitions. We can discuss, testing; individual codes and issues, you would need to start working down the list.

Just a couple of comments, on some codes that I am seeing:

17977 - Cruise Control Switch (E45): Implausible Signal

The cruise control switch, is known; for over time, having dirty connections and grounding out. I had the same issue and sprayed some CRC electronic cleaner, into the switch itself and worked the cleaner, into it, by rocking/pushing the rocker switch and it fixed it for me (worth a shot and a inexpensive attempt to fix it; compared to replacing the whole lever/assembly). I haven't anymore issues, since I sprayed the cleaner into it and its still working fine (17 year old original part).

QD® Electronic Cleaner, 11 Wt Oz - 05103
(I buy the cleaner, in the automotive section @ Walmart; it is under $6 for a can).

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=QD®+Electronic+Cleaner,+11+Wt+Oz+-+05103&atb=v140-1&ia=products

16955 - Brake Light Switch (F): Implausible Signal

The brake switches, were/are notorius for failing; there was a number of revisions of the original part and in the past a actually vw recall on the part. I think, this is out of the vw recall time frame but you could call your local vw dealer service dept. and ask, for the heck of it. Otherwise, it is a easy replacement procedure and the it is under the dash; remove the kick panel and it is right next to the brake pedal.

01683 - Wheel Speed Signals / Vehicle Speed

This code, doesn't seem to indicate; which wheel speed sensor is faulty or not having a signal. Reading live data, while spinning a wheel; would be a quick way, to narrow down, which wheel sensor data stream, is not working.

Lean and Rich codes; you would need to go to the basics and start testing things, (fuel pressure, check fuel trim or maf sensor live data, vacuum leaks, etc).

So, this should get you started; let us know, what testing to you want to start with and we can discuss things further.

 

[Durvelle27]

Jeez, more codes!!!

17748/P1340/004928 - Ross-Tech Wiki

17536/P1128/004392 - Ross-Tech Wiki

17545/P1137/004407 - Ross-Tech Wiki

17832/P1424/005156 - Ross-Tech Wiki

17977/P1569/005481 - Ross-Tech Wiki

18057/P1649/005705 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16891/P0507/001287 - Ross-Tech Wiki

18081 - Speed Signal: Malfunction Message from ABS Controller (no definition info)

16955/P0571/001393 - Ross-Tech Wiki

01683 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Ok, you have quite a few codes; go over and read the above definitions. We can discuss, testing; individual codes and issues, you would need to start working down the list.

Just a couple of comments, on some codes that I am seeing:

17977 - Cruise Control Switch (E45): Implausible Signal

The cruise control switch, is known; for over time, having dirty connections and grounding out. I had the same issue and sprayed some CRC electronic cleaner, into the switch itself and worked the cleaner, into it, by rocking/pushing the rocker switch and it fixed it for me (worth a shot and a inexpensive attempt to fix it; compared to replacing the whole lever/assembly). I haven't anymore issues, since I sprayed the cleaner into it and its still working fine (17 year old original part).

QD® Electronic Cleaner, 11 Wt Oz - 05103
(I buy the cleaner, in the automotive section @ Walmart; it is under $6 for a can).

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=QD®+Electronic+Cleaner,+11+Wt+Oz+-+05103&atb=v140-1&ia=products

16955 - Brake Light Switch (F): Implausible Signal

The brake switches, were/are notorius for failing; there was a number of revisions of the original part and in the past a actually vw recall on the part. I think, this is out of the vw recall time frame but you could call your local vw dealer service dept. and ask, for the heck of it. Otherwise, it is a easy replacement procedure and the it is under the dash; remove the kick panel and it is right next to the brake pedal.

01683 - Wheel Speed Signals / Vehicle Speed

This code, doesn't seem to indicate; which wheel speed sensor is faulty or not having a signal. Reading live data, while spinning a wheel; would be a quick way, to narrow down, which wheel sensor data stream, is not working.

Lean and Rich codes; you would need to go to the basics and start testing things, (fuel pressure, check fuel trim or maf sensor live data, vacuum leaks, etc).

So, this should get you started; let us know, what testing to you want to start with and we can discuss things further.

P1340 is still the same so it's not new


P1128 points to MAF or 02 Sensor upstream

P1137 also points to MAF or 02 Sensor which i believe both are faulty

P1424 as i replaced both Air injections hoses with actaul OEM hoses

P1569 this dumb code is fine as long as i keep cruise control turned off

P1649 this one was found to be the ABS fuse being blown which also triggered the brake light and beeping

P0507 i'll have to scratch my head alittle longer on this one

P0571 was a blown fuse



Based from previous data i know indeed that the MAF is faulty and not properly reading

I'm also leaning into the O2 sensor being faulty as well

 

[billymade]

Well, I guess, you need to start making some changes; like a new genuine oem Bosch maf and do more testing, to confirm, that fixes the under reporting maf numbers and see if it fixes the rich/lean mixture condition. Doing, each test and parts replacement; noting the before/after testing results, would be a good procedure, to confirm if the issues are be solved. This thread has gone so long; I don't remember but I would also, test the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump. I found my original fuel pump to be weak and I went ahead, replaced the fuel pressure regulator, a little while, after the fuel pump replacement. The new fuel pressure regulator; helped with acceleration, idle was smoother and overall, the engine ran better. So, basically, in retrospect: after 15+ years; you should expect, the original fuel delivery parts, will be tired and weak, needing replacement, to get the best performance.

The other issues, just need to be worked on; tested and confirm, the cause of the problems, working down your list of issues and replacing defective parts, confirming the results of the new part with testing again, before/after. Let us know, how things go; the results of repair/replacement, moving forward and we can go from there.

 

[airmobile101]

Your two codes for the bank 1 fuel trim suggest the Bank 1 wideband 02 is possibly bad. But.... that secondary air injection leak will cause those codes also. The secondary leak can be a slew of things that I found out. Have you replaced or cleaned the Combi(EGR) valve? As for the MAF, Its best to get a Bosch. Our 2001 had a aftermarket MAF when we got it. It was part of the issues we were having.

 

[y2kreflexbeetle]

I'd recommend a pressure test of the vacuum system. I had the abs and cruise control codes and resolved them after doing a pressure test and replacing a badly cracked pcv stem.

 

[Durvelle27]

Lots of problems being slowly fixed

 

[billymade]

Any changes, progress or updates?

 

[Durvelle27]

Any changes, progress or updates?

MAF replaced fixed some issues
EGR Valve replaced for the secondary leak

timing getting done soon as the cheapest quote was $600 to do it

Car still been having issues with dieing out though

 

[billymade]

Can you describe specifically; what problems were resolved with the changes you made and what the current stalling issue comes up (conditions, hot/cold, coming ti a stop, accelerating, etc)? Have you done a fresh scan; for any current trouble codes and have any gone away, come back or have new ones appeared? Thanks.

 

[Durvelle27]

Can you describe specifically; what problems were resolved with the changes you made and what the current stalling issue comes up (conditions, hot/cold, coming ti a stop, accelerating, etc)? Have you done a fresh scan; for any current trouble codes and have any gone away, come back or have new ones appeared? Thanks.

Only the MAF low readings seem to be the only thing resolved

It cuts off when coming to a stop

 

[billymade]

You might recheck your fuel trims; see if the readings have improved and if they are in + or - 10%, double check if the maf is able to read min @idle and max @ wot, to finally definitely rule the maf out a oroblem. Idle issues, dying problems; can be related to vacuum leaks or a dirty throttle body. Cleaning the throttle body and doing the throttle body alignment procedure in vcds; has improved many poor idling, as a dirty valve increases airflow, to a point the ecu cannot compensate enough. Check out this video for more info:

https://youtu.be/YiOtKbj75Hk

After that checking fuel pressure; would be another step to rule out fuel delivery problems as a contributing factor, to poor running and dying issues. I have seen a failing fuel pump; cause all kinds of problems (lean codes, hesitation, misfires, hard/no starts, dying when the pump gets hot, etc). Note: aside from lean codes and a bad fuel pump relay: failing fuel pumps tend to not throw trouble codes and thus traditional fuel pressure testing is needed. .

Keep you eyes on any current trouble codes. pending codes or try clearing them and aee if any come back.

 

[Durvelle27]

You might recheck your fuel trims; see if the readings have improved and if they are in + or - 10%, double check if the maf is able to read min @idle and max @ wot, to finally definitely rule the maf out a oroblem. Idle issues, dying problems; can be related to vacuum leaks or a dirty throttle body. Cleaning the throttle body and doing the throttle body alignment procedure in vcds; has improved many poor idling, as a dirty valve increases airflow, to a point the ecu cannot compensate enough. Check out this video for more info:

https://youtu.be/YiOtKbj75Hk

After that checking fuel pressure; would be another step to rule out fuel delivery problems as a contributing factor, to poor running and dying issues. I have seen a failing fuel pump; cause all kinds of problems (lean codes, hesitation, misfires, hard/no starts, dying when the pump gets hot, etc). Note: aside from lean codes and a bad fuel pump relay: failing fuel pumps tend to not throw trouble codes and thus traditional fuel pressure testing is needed. .

Keep you eyes on any current trouble codes. pending codes or try clearing them and aee if any come back.

Alright i'll check that

 

[Durvelle27]

I know it's been awhile since i posted but i've been super busy and ended up moving.

But an update on the beetle

It use to shutoff every single time we came to a stop or braked but when actually drive it was fine. Now the beetle shuts off even when driving. There's no hesitation or jerking, the car just shuts off and all the lights come on the dash. But cars starts right backup. I also notice sometimes recently the car takes longer to start. It will continue to crank than eventually starts.

Aside from what has been done in this thread

I've also replaced the MAF sensor and Fuel Filter

 

[billymade]

2001 Beetle 1.8T "APH' Slew of OBD Codes

As always, start with a fresh scan for trouble codes; the engine dying as you describe, typically comes down to fuel delievery or ignition problems.

We have seen dying fuel pumps and engine speed/crank sensors; cause dying/sralling problems. A bad fuel pump will not throw a code but a lean fuel trim code, typically is.

A bad crank sensor will and should be thrown.

Post up any codes you find and we can go from there. Thanks.

 

[Durvelle27]

As always, start with a fresh scan for trouble codes; the engine dying as you describe, typically comes down to fuel delievery or ignition problems.

We have seen dying fuel pumps and engine speed/crank sensors; cause dying/sralling problems.

Post up any codes you find and we can go from there. Thanks.

Alright it might take a while though as Vag was on my last laptop and i have a new one now so i have to reget it.

Would a AutoZone OBD work

 

[billymade]

Yeah, these are basic issues, generic obd ii codes will be thrown and not vw specific, like the transmission or abs system. If you have live data capability; you can look at fuel trims and lean, could indicate a fuel delievery issue, like a weak or failing fuel pump.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info