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2006 Voltswagen New Beetle 2.5L Help with Replacing Front Lower Control Arms?

3.8K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  Dan5160  
#1 ·
I have a 2006 Volkswagen New Beetle 2.5L/W Automatic Transmission/Convertible. While driving slow. Every time, I hit the brakes. Feels like the front wheels moves back about 2-4 inches. I found, My front lower control arm bushings are bad. Today, my goal is to attempt to replace the front lower control arms. There's so many different videos online on replacing control arms. It's difficult to determine which video is best to follow. I posted the thread in hopes someone here has replaced control arms before that can offer tips or advice to help me?
This has a (Automatic transmission) not Manual transmission. I'm told with Manual transmissions this job is much easier then with automatics. Unfortunately, I have Automatic Transmission.
First question is, Will I have issues removing the control arm bushing bolts due to the oil pan in the way? (This is a 2006 VW New Beetle 2.5L). I seen a video for a 2007 VW of having to drop the sub-frame in-order to remove the bushing bolts Due to oil pan in the way. I have no idea if a 2006 is the same as a 2007.
Seconds question is, After removing the 3 bolts on the Ball-Joint. My Fear or Concern is accidently pulling the CV axle out from the transmission. I surely don't want that to happen or tear a CV axle boot doing so. Any tips or advice please?
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I see different videos online on how to do this job.
 
#3 ·
Update: When I went to loosen the front bushing bolt on the lower control arm. I heard a snap. I thought I snapped-off the bolt. Behold, the bolt came-out intact. Nightmare, The nut inside the subframe for the bolt. The tack weld busted. That was the snap I heard. The nut is lost for ever inside the subframe with no access to get to it. What I also, learned from this nightmare is, it's not a nut. It's a shoulder-less threaded thing with no Hex-head to tighten nor get a hold of to tighten. What was VW thinking when they did this is beyond me.
My solution,
Using a air cutting wheel and air chisel. Behind the nut location. I cut a 1 inch in size access door. Just big enough to fit a socket into the access door. Peel back to open. Behold there's the nut or they say, the shoulder-less threaded thing. I then, grinded a Hex shaped head on the shoulder-less threaded thing so I'm able to get a socket on it to tighten. I added a lock-washer behind the nut. I tightened it. Bent back the metal door. Done! I feel I didn't weaken the sub-frame by cutting a 1 inch door into it. Still solid. Drives fine with no issues.
 
#2 ·
You will not accidentally remove the axle after removing the 3 ball joint bolts. Your biggest issue will be the front bushing bolt on each side. There is a capture nut tack welded on the inside of the subframe. That capture nut tends to become detached and then the bolt is more or less impossible to get out.

Here is the thread explaining the problem and how to fix it.


Some cut a door as oldpoopie did, others drill a large circular hole. I cut a door but with limited access to a welder just bent it back into place. I’ve had to do both sides on mine. My daughters beetle on the other hand has been ok so far.

I’ve never done an automatic before but if you need to lower the subframe just loosen the big 21mm bolts and let it down an inch or two. Make sure you tighten those bolts back up.