i purchased a 2001 vw beetle 1.8L turbo automatic transmission with 130K miles from a family member. Since we bought the vehicle it has had some major transmission problems from which we cannot seem to fix permanently. It shifts hard from 2nd into 3rd almost to the point where it does bark the tires sometimes lol. i have taken the car to the local vw dealership 4 times. fixed all the codes that kept coming up which were. a temp sensor in the main engine compartment and 2 oxygen sensors underneath the car next to the oil pan. The hard shift tended to lighten up a little to where it was not as bad as before. now it tends to skip 2nd and 3rd and stay in a high gear until you turn the car off or manual switch to 1st gear. sometimes it evens shifts fine through 1 2 and 3rd but fails to shift into 4th at around 55 mph the rpms are at around 6k. i do not have much money and going to the dealership seems to not be helping at all. can someone please help this poor girl out! thank you so much. My Dad seems to think its a ECM problem because of being able to turn the car off and that sometimes fixes the problem till you decide to turn it off then back on. clearing codes seems to help also. very weird problem. any help at all is very appreciated. sorry for my lack of car knowledge!
tiffybby94
I've heard from people that if you change the fluid in it, there's always the chance that it may not run again. I've only had it for 2 months and I love it already. I just want some answers and I feel like the dealership just gives me the run around. Big sigh.....Assume this is a 09G 6 speed Tiptronic transmission??
Anyway, regardless of 4, 5 or 6 speed automatic the valve bodies eat themselves.
You can buy a rebuit valve body for around $500-$600 or get your reworked for around $550.
Where do you live?
You either need to do the work yourself/family member or have a LONG discussion with what ever shop you plan to use.
DO NOT GO TO AAMCO.
The problem is most trans shops pull the trans pan/valve body out then say there is metal in the pan and the entire trans needs to be rebuilt.
The issue is ALL transmission with 70-120k miles will have debris and some metal in the pan.
Look at it this way, rework the valve body, if you have to pay someone to pull and reinstall the valve body, expect between $900-$110 with fluid.
STAY away from the dealership unless they can quote you a price in the range I stated.
Pulling the valve body is rather easy, the hardest part is disconnecting all the solenoid wiring without breaking the plastic caps and marking, taking pictures of all the wiring..
I used a shop in Southern CA to rework my valve body about 7500 miles ago, very happy with their work.
Anyway, regardless of 4, 5 or 6 speed automatic the valve bodies eat themselves.
You can buy a rebuit valve body for around $500-$600 or get your reworked for around $550.
Where do you live?
You either need to do the work yourself/family member or have a LONG discussion with what ever shop you plan to use.
DO NOT GO TO AAMCO.
The problem is most trans shops pull the trans pan/valve body out then say there is metal in the pan and the entire trans needs to be rebuilt.
The issue is ALL transmission with 70-120k miles will have debris and some metal in the pan.
Look at it this way, rework the valve body, if you have to pay someone to pull and reinstall the valve body, expect between $900-$110 with fluid.
STAY away from the dealership unless they can quote you a price in the range I stated.
Pulling the valve body is rather easy, the hardest part is disconnecting all the solenoid wiring without breaking the plastic caps and marking, taking pictures of all the wiring..
I used a shop in Southern CA to rework my valve body about 7500 miles ago, very happy with their work.
They all have valve body problems, if it is a 4 speed automatic, also the wiring hardness for the valve body also should be replaced.
Anyone that has half a brain can pull the valve body, its not that hard. About 15 bolts, some wires and a mechanical linkage connection.
Filling the trans can be a bit tricky, but of you buy the right supplies, it is actually very easy.
Anyone that can do a timing belt should be able to pull the valve body and replace it as long as they just use their head.
The 6 speed is a PITA as there are about 14 wiring connectors.
Just take pictures of the wiring, wiring path and label connections.
Anyone that has half a brain can pull the valve body, its not that hard. About 15 bolts, some wires and a mechanical linkage connection.
Filling the trans can be a bit tricky, but of you buy the right supplies, it is actually very easy.
Anyone that can do a timing belt should be able to pull the valve body and replace it as long as they just use their head.
The 6 speed is a PITA as there are about 14 wiring connectors.
Just take pictures of the wiring, wiring path and label connections.
2003 VW 1.8L Turbo Beetle Transmission Issue?
I have a 2003 VW 1.8L Turbo Beetle and I have had the car for 3 years and since then I have done quite a bit of repairs on it, including new alternator, battery, timing belt, oil pan, catalytic converter and some other things.
However, lately it seems to jump when the gears shift (automatic by the way) up and down so when I'm stopping it sounds almost like it's going to stall and then it jumps and the same happens when I accelerate.
I'm just wondering what may be wrong with it and who I should go to because I don't want to pay an arm and a leg at the dealers. I love my car and only need it to last about 2-3 years more, until I'm out of school.
Any leads/suggestions would be greatly appreciate so thank you guys in advance!
Cheers!
I have a 2003 VW 1.8L Turbo Beetle and I have had the car for 3 years and since then I have done quite a bit of repairs on it, including new alternator, battery, timing belt, oil pan, catalytic converter and some other things.
However, lately it seems to jump when the gears shift (automatic by the way) up and down so when I'm stopping it sounds almost like it's going to stall and then it jumps and the same happens when I accelerate.
I'm just wondering what may be wrong with it and who I should go to because I don't want to pay an arm and a leg at the dealers. I love my car and only need it to last about 2-3 years more, until I'm out of school.
Any leads/suggestions would be greatly appreciate so thank you guys in advance!
Cheers!
Your car probably has a 6 speed Tiptronic 09G transmission with over 70k miles on it?
The valve body needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
Rebuilt valve bodies are around $550 give or take.
New VB is about $700 or slightly more.
It takes about 2-3 hours to replace the VB and refill with fluid.
Expect to pay around $900-$1100 if you can find a shop that knows what they are doing.
The valve body needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
Rebuilt valve bodies are around $550 give or take.
New VB is about $700 or slightly more.
It takes about 2-3 hours to replace the VB and refill with fluid.
Expect to pay around $900-$1100 if you can find a shop that knows what they are doing.
I have a hard time believing a rebuilt valve body for $100; would be of good quality or last. Most we see on this site, that have worked well for people; fully rebuilt, tested and with a substantial warranty seem to be in the $500-$1k range, depending on which trans you have 01M 4 speed, 09G six speed, etc.
What is wrong with your car and which tranmission do you have? What year and model is it?
What is wrong with your car and which tranmission do you have? What year and model is it?
05 turbo convertible w/ 1.8, automatic transmission, 92k miles. Not sure which transmission it is yet. Its my daughter's car, the alternator went out so I changed it and the wiring distribution box on top of the battery. It had blown/melted the 150A fuse link. Now after I took it for a drive, it was shifting hard, sometimes squeaking the tires going into 2nd gear. Then after that, it seemed to be stuck in high gear and would not shift out of it even when I came to a stop. Haven't checked the fluid yet, due to the weather and having to wrench outside, and also due to no dipstick (easier way) type of check. Just have been reading these forums and figured it is probably the valve body. Any suggestions? Also, what do I look for to figure out the type of trans? Please advise. Thank you.
You don’t provide a link to the valve body just a screenshot. There is a seller on eBay that goes by the name of prothe, who has destroyed a lot of vw’s engines and otherwise selling cheap chinese junk.
forums.tdiclub.com
I would change the fluid before swapping out the valve body.
This should be a link to a how to. However my internet is lousy and the page wasn’t loading so I may have sent only a partial or bad link to the actual page but kansascitytdi.com has a how to if you look around on their website on changing the fluid on several of these pathetic vw auto transmissions.
I
**Bad VW part vendor WARNING list**
In honor of "Prothe" also known as "Proethe" who seems to have single handedly destroyed more TDI's than anyone else - See the current threads http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=314980 http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=199567 and...
forums.tdiclub.com
I would change the fluid before swapping out the valve body.
This should be a link to a how to. However my internet is lousy and the page wasn’t loading so I may have sent only a partial or bad link to the actual page but kansascitytdi.com has a how to if you look around on their website on changing the fluid on several of these pathetic vw auto transmissions.
I
An '05 should be the 09G 6-speed auto. I would get a VW specific code reader on the car and read any transmission codes before you go buying parts. Did the issue start after you did the work on the alternator, or was it happening prior?
Got the transmission fluid changed, along with the pickup filter and gasket.... Still having the same hard shift from 1st to 2nd & it stays in higher gear after a drive and getting it up to speed. Sometimes at about 20-25 the engine would continue to rev with no pull from the transmission like it was in neutral. The check engine light came on and the gear lights on the cluster stayed surrounded by marks like it was in every gear, P,R,N,D,1.... Any advice for a repair would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Btw. Drained out about 2 quarts that was brownish, maybe a bit milky looking, like water and oil. After leveling the car and filling it up, I got about 4 quarts in it after the warming up, changing the gears, and removing the plug until it just dripped. So it probably was low on fluid. Not a lot of metal or anything in the pan or on the magnets. Anyone think the valve body replacement is the fix?
Btw. Drained out about 2 quarts that was brownish, maybe a bit milky looking, like water and oil. After leveling the car and filling it up, I got about 4 quarts in it after the warming up, changing the gears, and removing the plug until it just dripped. So it probably was low on fluid. Not a lot of metal or anything in the pan or on the magnets. Anyone think the valve body replacement is the fix?
More research, testing is in order; throwing parts at a problem without properly diagnosing the problem, can get very expensive and just end up with the same issues.
There are a number of possibilities on shifting issues; first step, would be scanning with a VW factory level scan tool and see, what trouble codes, live data reveal. Many problems can be external (wiring harness damage, failed sensors, shifter assembly broken, etc), then the typical sticking valve body solenoids or internal ribbon harness damage and worst case scenario, internal damage (hard/soft parts), problems, requiring a pull, disassembly to evaluate things, find the problem (full rebuild). Here is a video, showing the use of VCDS by Ross Tech; to read trouble codes and view live data:
VCDS® HEX-V2® Enthusiast
- USB Interface -
Once, you get the diagnostic info and narrow down the problem; you can see, if you can fix it yourself and/or decide, if it is a cost effective repair, that may need a professional to address. Correct diagnosis, can bring clarity to the problem and help guide you, on what to do next. When, you move forward; keep us in loop, tell us what you find, what is revealed and we can go from there, thanks.
There are a number of possibilities on shifting issues; first step, would be scanning with a VW factory level scan tool and see, what trouble codes, live data reveal. Many problems can be external (wiring harness damage, failed sensors, shifter assembly broken, etc), then the typical sticking valve body solenoids or internal ribbon harness damage and worst case scenario, internal damage (hard/soft parts), problems, requiring a pull, disassembly to evaluate things, find the problem (full rebuild). Here is a video, showing the use of VCDS by Ross Tech; to read trouble codes and view live data:
VCDS® HEX-V2® Enthusiast
- USB Interface -
Once, you get the diagnostic info and narrow down the problem; you can see, if you can fix it yourself and/or decide, if it is a cost effective repair, that may need a professional to address. Correct diagnosis, can bring clarity to the problem and help guide you, on what to do next. When, you move forward; keep us in loop, tell us what you find, what is revealed and we can go from there, thanks.
These two codes, relate to the transmission:
16997: TCM processor; no signal or communication.
wiki.ross-tech.com
I'm not seeing any documentation about specific testing performed and confirmation of the diagnosis stated in the repair eatimate. Electrical issues, are mentioned in the related trouble codes; testing and any actual proof of damage to the internals of the trans, would help with the overall evaluation and deciding what to do next. Unfortunately, many shops tend to err on the aide of "replacement", rather then confirm, troubleshoot and pinpoint the actual problem with the currently installed transmission. What they did to come up with this diagnosis and almost $3200 full trans replacement, is unclear.
Further testing and diagnosis; using a factory vw level scan tool like VCDS, would help intelligently, narrow down the problem.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
16997: TCM processor; no signal or communication.
17119/P0735/001845 - Ross-Tech Wiki
I'm not seeing any documentation about specific testing performed and confirmation of the diagnosis stated in the repair eatimate. Electrical issues, are mentioned in the related trouble codes; testing and any actual proof of damage to the internals of the trans, would help with the overall evaluation and deciding what to do next. Unfortunately, many shops tend to err on the aide of "replacement", rather then confirm, troubleshoot and pinpoint the actual problem with the currently installed transmission. What they did to come up with this diagnosis and almost $3200 full trans replacement, is unclear.
Further testing and diagnosis; using a factory vw level scan tool like VCDS, would help intelligently, narrow down the problem.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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