[IndyTom]

i re did the vacuum hose exactly how you got it it still wont boost its acting like the wastegate is stuck open or something, i also got the check eng light checked, had 3 pending codes, p1127, p0322, and p0303, could the boost issue be bnecause of the o2?

17535 P1127 Long Term Fuel Trim mult.,Bank1 System too Rich
That points to a Boost leak, faulty check valve or vacuum leak.
That check valve you have connected to the vacuum line doesn't look like a VW type check valve. Swapping it out might be a good idea. Also we probably should take another look at your vacuum line hook up just to be sure. I will take some more pics and post them.

Vacuum Check Valve, 058905291K, Audi VW Car Parts
The dealer charges about 40+ bucks for that little plastic thingy.

P0322 code points to the VSS/Vehicle Speed Sensor also called the Crankshaft positioning sensor.

Volkswagen Beetle Crank Position Sensor | Racepages.com

Volkswagen Beetle Crankshaft Position Sensor - Free Shipping - Replacement, Beck Arnley, Standard

They are about 45-85 bucks or so. Sometimes E-Bay has them for cheaper but I don't know if I would trust some of those items.

The P0303 is a misfire code cyl 3. Which could be because of the Crankshaft position sensor or it could be the coil on that plug, or the spark plug or a bad electrical connection (check the plastic connector) or a clogged fuel injector or it could still be because of an air leak somewhere because of a vacuum line or leaky check valve.

Also adjust your diverter valve to 8 clicks from fully open. (Turn counter clockwise until stop then turn clockwise 8 clicks)

I will be back with some pics.

 

[IndyTom]

Okay, I tried to squeeze my camera behind the Plastic Vacuum canister so you can see the hook ups more clearly. The two red lines go into the Diverter Valve and into the Combi Valve as pointed out by the arrows. Let me know if you need a different angle.

 

[IndyTom]

the metal vacuum hose thats on the back of the motor where is that supposed to hook up? and you got pictures of your boost pressure sensor, im really confused at this point i just want to take it to a shop have them fix it.

Not sure which metal hose you mean? By Boost Pressure sensor do you mean the N75 Valve?

 

[IndyTom]

the metal vacuum hose thats on the back of the motor where is that supposed to hook up? and you got pictures of your boost pressure sensor, im really confused at this point i just want to take it to a shop have them fix it.

Maybe I could swing by this weekend and we can take a look at it together? Or you do have a great VW/Audi Tuner shop right on your Doorstep. Grossman Tuning.
Grossman Tuning, LLC

They do great work and also do REVO tunes in case you want to get a Stage 1 Trial tune. But before you do that I would get your car running correctly first.

 

[IndyTom]

APH Turbo Charger Plumbing

Here is a scan from my Bentley Manual. It shows the location on how the plumbing runs for the APH. The center didn't scan so I will type the descriptions of what the numbers are below the scan:

1.) Connecting pipe/hose - From gravity valve connection on fuel tank

2.) Vacuum reservoir - Location: in right rear wheel well

3.) Check valve - for activated charcoal filter system. Note installation position: arrow points in direction of flow

4.) Turbocharger assembly

5.) Pressure unit (servo) for wastegate

6.) Overrun recirculation valve - Diverter Valve

7.) Wastegate bypass regulator valve N75

8.) Power brake servo

9.) Air cleaner assembly with mass air flow sensor (G70)

10.) Crankcase pressure regulating (breather) valve

11.) Vacuum booster (amplifier)

12.) Fuel pressure regulator

13.) Crankcase ventilation housing

14.) Intake manifold and throttle valve control module (J338)

15.) Check valve (arrow points in direction of flow)

16.) Overrun recirculation valve solenoid (N249)

17.) Vacuum reservoir - Location: on cylinder head (valve)
cover

18 -20) See picture above.

 

[BLU1.8T]

Well i looked at all the vacuum lines they all are hooked up correctly so is the metal vacuum line behind the motor but let me know friday or sat we can get together so u cn try and hlp me out

 

[BLU1.8T]

Tbh idk where the missfire was from because ever since i started it i didnt notice any missfires

 

[IndyTom]

I Circled the Combi Valve and the SAIP pump. Just for reference.

 

[BLU1.8T]

the hose that gose from combi valve to the pump is the thick plastic hose right?

 

[BLU1.8T]

if the car went in limp mode do you hafto clear engine codes to fix it?

 

[IndyTom]

the hose that gose from combi valve to the pump is the thick plastic hose right?

Yes it is. It is hard to miss. It is about one inch in diameter and a hard flexible plastic hose. That hose definitely should be hooked up or you could have all sorts of issues.

 

[IndyTom]

if the car went in limp mode do you hafto clear engine codes to fix it?

Most of the time Yes. But if the cause on why the engine went into Limp mode wasn't fixed then it will go right back into Limp mode after a few minutes. Do you have a Vag Com or a OBDII scanner that can clear your codes?
One kinda cool gadget that you might want to consider is an Ultragauge. Besides being a neat little trip computer that displays actual Coolant temp and Intake temp or Voltage and MAF function etc. It can also read and clear OBDII codes.
They are having a Sale on those right now and my brother got one and likes it a lot. $69.95 after Rebate.
UltraGauge Automotive Information Center and OBDII Scan Tool

 

[BLU1.8T]

im going to check other vacuume hoses to be sure theyr not screwd up or something

 

[IndyTom]

Make sure that the correct vacuum line goes into the vacuum port of the Combi Valve.

Also how old is your boost gauge? My brother had a vacuum leak and it turned out to be his Boost gauge which was bad. I replaced it with one of my older ones I had from my TT and now no more boost leak. I would check all the connections again.

Question, did you relocate the Plastic Vacuum Reservoir or was it that way on your car? Mine sits on a bracket further to the left. Not that it matters but I was just curious. I figured that all 2000 APH motors would be configured the same.

 

[BLU1.8T]

yah my whole bracket was more to the left i moved it it was same as urs

 

[BLU1.8T]

where is the crank position sencor located, i have a new one id like to replace it

 

[IndyTom]

where is the crank position sencor located, i have a new one id like to replace it

Here are some links I found regarding the crankshaft positioning sensor.

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/47080-crank-position-sensor-replacement.html

I never replaced one. I guess the electrical connector sits right by the Oil filter housing and you may need to take the oil filter off in order to reach it. Then just follow the connector to the sensor. Should be held in by one allan type bolt.

 

[IndyTom]

I found several DIY's for the 2.0 but non so far for a 1,8 engine.

VWVortex.com - VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor (Little DIY inside) - and help wanted!!!!!!

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor-in-2.0L-engine&highlight=Crankshaft+position+sensor

 

[IndyTom]

Here is a DIY on a 1.8 Audi I found which should be very similar on our Beetle's

engine speed sensor replacement - AudiWorld Forums

Here is another thread I found.

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/8167-replacing-engine-speed-sensor-g28-99-a.html

Very basic but may help you locate it.

 

[BLU1.8T]

well I called Grossman tuneing I'm going to have them look at my car and if they can fix it im going to have them put a revo tune on it for 20psi.. Is 20 pushing it or is that safe on a k04