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Instrument Cluster Weirdness (Tachometer and Fuel Gauge)

9.2K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  billymade  
#1 ·
Hello folks - new member here hoping for some instrument cluster help.

I've searched the forum and there seem to be lots of discussions about the cluster so I guess this might be a NB weak spot.

But so far I haven't come across anything that is exactly like my situation, so here goes...

I just bought my Beetle last week. The car has been off the road for a few months as it failed its MOT (UK inspection).

The Tachometer "sort of" works. With the engine off the needle points way below zero - in fact it seems to be resting on the curved base of the cluster binnacle. When I start the engine, the needle moves, but points to approx minus 300rpm at idle. I connected my OBD2 dongle (I was clearing some emissions codes at the time) and could see from the live readout that the car was idling about 700 rpm. As I increase the revs the needle also moves upwards, but continues to read about 1000rpm lower than the true engine speed from the OBD2.

The fuel gauge does not respond at all. Ignition off, the needle is parked at about the 6 o'clock position (actually more like 5:50) - again, seems to be resting on the base of the binnacle. Ignition on, the gauge does not move.

I've looked back at the pictures the seller put in his advert, and the tachometer was showing about minus 300rpm, so I assume that the tach problem has been there for a while. But the fuel gauge was pointing about 2/3rd full, and the car has not covered any distance since (other than being driven on and off a trailer) so I have no reason to believe the fuel level has gone down in reality. Also, there is no low fuel light illuminated in the cluster.

The speedometer points to zero at rest, engine on or off (I can't test its accuracy on the road until I get the car roadworthy again), and the odometer, backlights and warning lights all seem to be working.

When I got the car last week the battery didn't seem to be fully charged, but it was charged enough to start the car, if turning over a bit slow. I've since got it hooked up to a NOCO charger/conditioner which is showing a green status light and it's reading 12.6V with the engine off so I assume it's good. The battery was replaced early 2019, so it's not too old. I haven't yet figured out how to remove the battery fusebox to check the exact battery age or specification. I could imagine with the car sitting for some months the battery has been flat at some point this year, and possibly been jump started.

So - given that the OBD2 is reporting what looks like the correct RPM, I guess the rpm sensor is good. I don't have access to a more sophisticated VW scan tool, so I can't do any more diagnosis.

Could the weird tachometer/fuel gauge behaviour be related to having had a flat battery in the past (and if so is there a way to reset them), or does this look like the cluster is bad?

I've put some pictures (one engine off, on engine on from today, one from the seller when the fuel gauge was working) to illustrate the issue

Thanks in advance for any guidance!
 

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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Could be that someone pulled the pointer(s) off and didn't orient them correctly when replacing them. I saw someone in a video that had removed the pointers to put the immobilizer light out. I saw exactly what you describe in the video. You could try to carefully pull the pointer(s) off and press them at the correct mark while running.
thanks - I guess that’s a possibility for the tacho - but the fuel gauge was working until recently and I don’t think anyone has been into the cluster since then.

A VW scan tool; like VCDS by Ross Tech, would be helpful to diagnose the mechanical aspect of the gauge stepper motors.

With VCDS, as show here; you can do a gauge "sweep" which would confirm; the functional aspect of the motors and then, with the car running, you could view live data and see, if the various aspects of the car, are being shown correctly, then, being shown, the same data, on the gauges themselves.


If the data is correct or incorrect; then, that would help direct you, to the cluster or the related sensor or in the case of the fuel gauge, the gas level sending unit/float.

The ideas, of the pointer being off; it a interesting idea. If the live data is good but the gauges are dead, replacements could be installed or the cluster circuit board, could be bad and that could be shipped out for repair or another good used cluster, sourced to replace your bad one (the immobilizer and odometer readings; would be need to be programmed or hex data, transferred over to the "new/used" cluster).

VW New Beetle stepper motors:


Let us know, what direction; you want to go with and if you want to get a vw scanner, to diagnose things more intelligently, we can discuss getting one, that fits your budget, go from there. Thanks.
thanks - I know from my basic OBD2 connector that the rpm indicated by the ECU is in the correct range, so this would suggest the rpm sensor is good, and the problem is either in the cluster circuit or in the stepper motor. But I can’t be certain.
I have no idea about the fuel level as I can’t read anything about that. But the fact that both needles rest on the base of the cluster when not powered gives me the feeling that it is a cluster problem in both cases.

so - for VCDS - how comprehensive is the diagnostic capability? Could it identify the state of the rpm sensor, fuel sender, cluster circuits and stepper motors etc. ?

reason for asking is that VCDS is pretty expensive, and I don’t have a windows laptop. So I could be in for £400-500 before I’ve got started. Which is about a third of the value of the car.

if there are any alternatives to VCDS that are more cost effective would be great to know.

cheers
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the advice @billymade.

So I bought an OBDeleven as the iOS compatibility made it more cost effective for me than buying VCDS and a laptop. (Really pleased with it - even managed to reset my dead air recirculation button (y)).

I performed an output test on the gauges yesterday and saw the following results…

Speedometer does a full sweep and then parks pointing straight up (which corresponds to 81mph or 130km/h on my NB). So I assume all is good there.

Tachometer sweeps round (from below zero) to about 6250rpm (about 1000rpm short of the end of the gauge) then parks about 1900rpm. I’ve seen from other online videos this should park about 3000rpm. So again, about 1000rpm too low.

The fuel gauge magically came back to life for a bit. It was sweeping from below zero to less than full, then parking about 1/3 full. Again from other online posts/videos, I think it should hold at 1/2 full during the test.

sadly, when I ran the test again this morning so I could video it (I will add the video once I figure out how), the fuel gauge is once again completely dead :(

I’ve found no references to under-reading VW tachometers on this forum (or searching the web) so if anyone has any clues on that, please let me know.

for the fuel gauge - this seems to be a common Beetle theme and is often either a bad tank sender or bad cluster. Based on what I’ve posted - any ideas which? (Or are there further diagnostic tests I can do to narrow it down further)

thanks all!

Greg