[Brian in Tucson]

You can remove the window and the regulator as a unit.

The mentioned video above was helpful, it did leave out that the black metal panel needs to be removed. And the electrical connector on the motor is fiddly. It doesn't provide any info about installing the repair kit, tho. There are other vids that cover that.

When you're watching the video, look for the video about fixing the problems of the regulator cable. Aftermarket repair kits have cables that are too short and are stretched like a bow string so that they prematurely fail.

 

[Brian in Tucson]

I'm done doing mine. I think I could almost do it in my sleep now, lots of false starts and go backs.

Here's the videos that helped. First the boys in blue show what you need to do to get to the mechanism.

You don't need to take the seat belt buckles out, and you can do it without the special tool. And it's easier if you can get the window all the way up and leave it attached.

Next Jeff tells you how to replace the cable.

Finally Bill tells you how to solve the problem of the too short cable. I found that about 1 inch off the sleeve did the trick.

Amazon sells a replacement cable kit with everything you need, Less than $18, you WILL have to shorten the sleeve.

Hope this helps.

 

[Brian in Tucson]

Ya learn as you go. I guess. Lucky I can do it with my eyes closed, now. Just after I got it all back together, that nasty scratchy rattle noise came back and the window won't go all the way up. Suspect I cut the sleeve a bit too short. I have another kit, as soon as the rain stops, I'll have to tackle it all over again. I'll try at 3/4" on the sleeve and try again. Life with a German designed car. My old Boxster is about the same.

 

[Brian in Tucson]

The best window regulator repair results we have seen on this site; is by using the genuine vw parts and they work out of the box. I have not had to modify them, to get them to work and they seem to last the longest. I have installed the front window regulator repair kits with solid results and it is cheaper, then the whole regulator assembly.

Thanks, I already have the less expensive kit in my parts collection. If I can get by with the $18 kit instead of the $80 plus kit, I'm gonna give it one more try. Changing out the regulator is a lot easier the second time around. Maybe if I have to do it again, I'll spring for the high priced spread.

I think if I were doing the job on someone else's car I'd probably strongly suggest the OEM parts, too.

 

[Brian in Tucson]

As Brittany Spears would sing, Oops I did it again! I replace the regulator for the second time today. Much easier than the first. What I did wrong the first time was I cut too much guide sleeve off and nicked the cable which caused it to fail. This time I cut only 3/4 of an inch off the sleeve and didn't nick the cable at all. Still a fair amount of tension in the cable, but I'm hoping it will be okay.

Turns out that I tightened the guide nuts too much, too, there are springs in the assembly to keep the nut tensioned, they don't need to be tightened down til the springs are completely collapsed.

Nice day in Tucson, it was about 75 degrees. But there's rain in the forecast and I wanted to be able to close all the windows. Next on the agenda is to replace the door woofers and change out the driver's door latch so the windows will automatically lower a bit. For being in pretty nice shape, this thing is nickel and diming me. Goal is to fix all the little stuff.