I am having this issue it is a 2000 VW golf, and I have a P1128 code , rpms rise and engine jerks but only twice then normal until I come to another stop , also twice the car wouldn't turn on unless I would rev the engine at start up but there was about a 2 month gap between both of those times , and everyone says the code is saying MAF but I have changed that twice it just seems like an endless amount of possibilities any help would be very appreciated
MarcoAFrutos
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26,380 Posts
The fuel trim; is definitely, something that needs to be checked: + or - 10% is considored in the normal range.
wiki.ross-tech.com
17536/P1128/004392 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active
Possible Causes
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor faulty
Oxygen Sensor Control faulty
Oxygen Sensor(s) faulty
Fuel Injector(s) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Check Oxygen Sensor Control
Check Oxygen Sensor(s)
Check Fuel Injector(s)
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Fuel Trim Info - Ross-Tech Wiki
17536/P1128/004392 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active
Possible Causes
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor faulty
Oxygen Sensor Control faulty
Oxygen Sensor(s) faulty
Fuel Injector(s) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Check Oxygen Sensor Control
Check Oxygen Sensor(s)
Check Fuel Injector(s)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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26,380 Posts
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26,380 Posts
This looks like, it is probably a Chinese knockoff part; I would consider, returning it and getting a Bosch oem sensor. You might, consider; cleaning your original Bosch maf and reinstalling it back on the car and see if that helps, how the car runs. VW's do not like cheap aftermarket parts and many times, prematurely fail or they are defective out of the box, making your car run worse then it did in the first place.
It is best, to diagnose things correctly; looking at live data, you can determine, if the maf readings are in spec.
CRC MAF cleaner:
CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner (11oz) - 05110
duckduckgo.com
The more you work on these cars; the more, you realize, how crucial oem parts are, to get them to work correctly and be reliable long term! Contrary, to popular belief; you actually save money and brain damage, by using correct high quality oem parts, rather then, cheap Chinese parts, the market is flooded with these days. FCEPEURO, is a great supplier with a lifetime warranty; something, to consider, if you plan on keeping the car, long term.
It is best, to diagnose things correctly; looking at live data, you can determine, if the maf readings are in spec.
CRC MAF cleaner:
CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner (11oz) - 05110
CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner (11oz) - 05110 at DuckDuckGo
DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.
The more you work on these cars; the more, you realize, how crucial oem parts are, to get them to work correctly and be reliable long term! Contrary, to popular belief; you actually save money and brain damage, by using correct high quality oem parts, rather then, cheap Chinese parts, the market is flooded with these days. FCEPEURO, is a great supplier with a lifetime warranty; something, to consider, if you plan on keeping the car, long term.
Joined
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26,380 Posts
What sort of testing and troubleshooting have you done and what were the results?
It is best to troubleshoot things correctly and through a process of elimination, find the problem, rather than throwing expensive new parts of the issue and hoping for a positive result, new parts may or may not fix whatever issues you're dealing with.
Looking at live data can be very helpful; for example on the maf readings, observing what the readings are at idle and at wide-open throttle or "WOT". If the maf does not read to normal spec; then you are pretty much guarantee the mafis defective, requiring replacement and we always recommend a OEM Bosch part, from a reputable supplier, as there are many fake and Counterfeit bosch parents being sold these days, especially on Amazon and eBay.
Note: look at the Ross Tech link to a .pdf discussing how to test maf sensors and how to determine, if the readings are in spec @ idle and WOT.
We try to always ask about trouble codes; what trouble codes are being seen and then look them up on the Ross Tech site. Their code definitions, then can give you guidance, on what things to test, at times vw specific info, that can be really helpful, the actual meaning of the trouble code etc. By following their testing advice; you can confirm the parts are is in the normal spec and solve problems that way.
Again, this is a process of elimination, troubleshooting problems but it is the most effective, intelligent, cost effective and solid way of working, to isolate things, narrow down the issues you are experiencing and finally find the source of things, that is causing the problems you're experiencing. You can do this and your car is fixable but it just takes some testing troubleshooting on your end to finally find the problem and get back on the road!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It is best to troubleshoot things correctly and through a process of elimination, find the problem, rather than throwing expensive new parts of the issue and hoping for a positive result, new parts may or may not fix whatever issues you're dealing with.
Looking at live data can be very helpful; for example on the maf readings, observing what the readings are at idle and at wide-open throttle or "WOT". If the maf does not read to normal spec; then you are pretty much guarantee the mafis defective, requiring replacement and we always recommend a OEM Bosch part, from a reputable supplier, as there are many fake and Counterfeit bosch parents being sold these days, especially on Amazon and eBay.
Note: look at the Ross Tech link to a .pdf discussing how to test maf sensors and how to determine, if the readings are in spec @ idle and WOT.
We try to always ask about trouble codes; what trouble codes are being seen and then look them up on the Ross Tech site. Their code definitions, then can give you guidance, on what things to test, at times vw specific info, that can be really helpful, the actual meaning of the trouble code etc. By following their testing advice; you can confirm the parts are is in the normal spec and solve problems that way.
Again, this is a process of elimination, troubleshooting problems but it is the most effective, intelligent, cost effective and solid way of working, to isolate things, narrow down the issues you are experiencing and finally find the source of things, that is causing the problems you're experiencing. You can do this and your car is fixable but it just takes some testing troubleshooting on your end to finally find the problem and get back on the road!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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26,380 Posts
17536/P1128/004392 - Ross-Tech Wiki
Have you done any testing and troubleshooting; what were the results? What about the maf; did you check live data and/or replace it?
Your transmission issues; could benefit, from the use of a vw specific scan tool; then, see if there are any trouble codes, related to that. If there is a bad trans, motor or dog bone mount; that could contribute to vibrating or slop in the engine, tranmission, shifting movement, etc.
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26,380 Posts
I've worked on some Mark IV VWs; that had their dogbone mount, basically have the rubber mount disintegrated or was essentially missing. It caused substantial movement and did not feel "right" at all. Substantial movement; could cause a clunking noise and then, it will stress the exhaust system, destroying the flex pipe, center exhaust mount, hangers, break off the mountings and eventually, destroy the other left/right mounts in the engine compartment as well (it has a domino effect). Everything, should be checked; no guarantees but nothing should be overlooked. Have a "helper"; moving things in/out of forward, reverse, etc. and it the mounts are bad, it should be obvious, from abnormal amount of movement.
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