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Replace the alternator?

22K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  sambailey6  
#1 ·
My dear hubby was driving my 2002 2.0 beetle when the instrument panel "lit up" (battery, brake, and several other indicators simultaneously).

Car never lost power while he drove - taking it to the AutoZone to get the codes shortly. If it's the alternator, as some of my research has suggested, how hard a swap is this?

If someone could point me in a direction for tips and tricks, it would be very much appreciated.

Thanks!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Hmm, never heard of an Alternator overcharging the battery.
What was the codes that came up?

Tried to find you a DIY on the 2.0 but couldn't find one. There are several for the 1.8.
The trick with the 1.8 is to pull the alternator out through the Passenger side Headlight opening.
Meaning you need to remove the headlight in order to easily slide out the alternator. Might
also work on the 2.0's.
 
#4 ·
I believe that would be a failure of the voltage regulator, but I'm not certain. I've definitely heard of it before.
 
#5 · (Edited)
New guy here, but some experience.

Did the thermostat on my 2.0l last week, was made easier by removing the alternator, took 20 minutes to do the t-stat, alternator removal and reinstallation included.

Remove the engine cover and its right there. I think there is a video for a 2.0L thermostat replacement on Youtube that will step you thru most of the alternator job as well. Toughest part was probably installing the belt.

And the regulator is part of the alternator, most likely would be as a "package".

Edit; > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmIbeUvoNu8 or http://youtu.be/kmIbeUvoNu8

Obviously, no need to drain or address anything coolant reelated, but does a decent job of showing the main questions on the alternator.
 
#6 ·
Are we talking about 16 Amps or 16 Volts?

Overcharging will not be in Amps, but Volts. Anything much over 16 Volts actually will cause many ECM/ECU to shut down oil the engine to save the vehicle electronics. Typical charging Voltage is between 13.5-14.5 at the battery. Some exceptions are cars that actually shut the alternator down for fuel economy reasons, you have to be careful not to condemn one of these alternators as you can easily be fooled .

Yes, shorted regulator will cause over charging, some alternators will actually loaded with leaking engine from a valve cover or some other leak and cause havoc. Also if the lower engine cover is missing, sometimes water intrusion can also be a problem.
 
#7 ·
Hello all. Thanks for the video, it was a huge help.

It was 16 volts and overcharging the battery. Concern was warping a battery cell with the over charge.

New alternator is 3 days in, charging properly, and no new warning lights being thrown.

New question now, though.. Ever since the install there is a distinct "whirling" noise that wasn't present before. Doing some research now, but suggestions are definitely welcome.

Thanks all!
 
#8 ·
Since the "Whirling" noise didn't start until you installed the new alternator it stands to reason that it may be the New Alternator? Check the alignment with the accessory belt and make sure it's straight. Is the accessory belt tensioner doing it's job? How tight is the accessory belt? Worse case scenario it's a shaft or bearing within the alternator making the noise.
Also check that the belt is on properly and isn't dragging on anything.

Glad that the new alternator did the trick. I just checked mine and it is charging between 13.9 and 14.5 depending on engine speed.
 
#9 ·
I have the same problem with 2.0L. 16V showing. Battery was smoking. I will ask the same question...looks pretty simple but is there a step by step or walk through for alternator replacement? Also would you recommend replacing the thermostat while the alternator is out just because it is easy to get to? I don't know the age of the thermostat.
 
#10 ·
There are plenty of DIY's for the 1.8 alternator swap but I haven't found one yet for the 2.0. Apparently it is a lot easier on the 2.0 so they figure you don't need a DIY.
Sure while you have the alternator out why not swap the Thermostat. But don't get a cheap aftermarket piece of crap Thermostat. They are more trouble then they are worth. In this case I would most definitely get the VW Part from the Dealer or ECS tuning.
Volkswagen New Beetle 2.0 > Search > Thermostat > ES#261231 87C Thermostat - 050121113C

I would also get a new Thermostat housing and O-Ring while you are at it. It's just cheap insurance.

Now since you don't know the age of your Thermostat. Do you know the age of your waterpump? Since the Thermostat should be changed with the very much needed and often procrastinated until something happens timing belt service I figure you haven't had the timing belt/water pump service performed on your car?? Something you really should think about along with the Alternator and the Thermostat. If you have the timing belt service/water pump and tensioner replaced recently then I appoligize and you should be okay. But a lot of people don't think about the timing belt service until it breaks and then the expense goes into the thousands to rebuild or replace the head plus all the things needed for the timing belt service that should have been performed in the first place.

Good Luck!
 
#13 ·
Good for you! I was just going to suggest that maybe your "new" alternator was "bad". I have had that happen to me more than once.