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2000 overheating

6.6K views 26 replies 15 participants last post by  Smileybug  
#1 ·
when driving the red temp light will blink and the water will be boiling in the coolant reservoir.... heres the deal. the top radiator hose will be extremely hot while the bottom hose is stone cold. when i drained the radiator the water was cold at first then got boiling hot.


so this is where im stumped. is the radiator plugged or is the water pump broken... im thinking its the radiator. but im not 100% sure
 
#2 ·
Quit driving the car before you crack or warp the head.

Take the thermostat out and test it, and also reach your fingers into the thermostat housing and feel for the water pump impeller. Try turning it, if it turns by hand the water pump is shot and will need to be replaced.
 
#5 ·
I had the exact same thing happen to my bug and it was the famously crappy plastic impellered water pump. Top hose hot, bottom cold because the waters not being circulated. Don't do like I did though...change the timing belt and tentioner pulley at the same time the water pump is changed.
 
#7 ·
I noticed a temperature related problem with my NewBeetle. The fan seems to be running every time I shut down. It seems like it wouldn't always happen. Does everyone's always run at shut down?
Please don't confuse the thread. This is someone else's problem in here, please start your own thread. It's easy and it'll get you more of and the right kind of attention.

"New Thread" button from the forum listings.



.............

OP's PROBABLY got a busted waterpump. Dzl gave you good advice on how to diagnose it. You left out mileage information so it's kinda loose guess, but yeah.

Check via thermostat; and start thinking of a potential waterpump/timing belt job.
 
#11 ·
lol my friend used to work at vw called him up to see what he thinks.... when i told him the symptoms hes all YEP! I know what it is! be over at ur house in a min. he did some test to make sure what it was and sure enough it was the water pump. oh boy just what we need.
 
#12 ·
How many miles on the car? Have you had the timing belt replaced? If you are getting the water pump done, do the timing belt and tensioner as well.
 
#13 ·
if it is the waterpump, i highly suggest getting it done at a vw dealer, i just got mine replaced for teh 3rd time this year . the first 2 times where waterpumps from an auto parts store, today i had it done at my vw dealer with a 12 month/12,000 mile warrenty :). my guess is that your thermostate is shot which in turn recked the water pump by not telling the cooling fans when to turn on to help cool the water, making the coolant boil which will totally destroy the impeller blades (it's like putting a non-microwavable dish in a microwave). this is what happened to my the first time, exept my hose head cylinder flange also broke, blew a hole right in the side of it. also shot coolant in my face when i opened the hood :( good luck
 
#14 · (Edited)
the first 2 times where waterpumps from an auto parts store, today i had it done at my vw dealer with a 12 month/12,000 mile warrenty :). my guess is that your thermostate is shot which in turn recked the water pump by not telling the cooling fans when to turn on to help cool the water, making the coolant boil which will totally destroy the impeller blades
I would never put a water pump from an "auto parts store" on any modern VW. Use Graf/Hepu with metal impeller or OEM (plastic) if you have to. No wonder you had problems.

As to the other statement you made regarding the thermostat...that is completely incorrect. A failed thermostat won't have any effect on the water pump or the radiator fans. A thermostat is strictly a mechanical device which is actuated when the coolant reaches its calibrated temperature. It either opens and closes normally or it (usually) fails in the open position. Once in awhile they will fail in the the closed position. The cooling fans are actuated by a switch in the radiator itself, however if the thermostat is holding coolant in the block and heater core circuit (you will have GREAT heat btw) it will just bring that to a boil and no coolant will be circulating through the radiator.

If the water pump impeller breaks or spins off the shaft, the coolant will not circulate even if the thermostat is open. You won't have much heat at all in this case, and the coolant will boil in the engine.
 
#16 ·
Plastic impellers crack and/or spin off the shaft causing the engine to overheat. Metal impellers do not.

The only reason they use plastic is because it is cheaper.
 
#19 ·
I have seen the case made that it is plastic to reduce cavitation and drag due to the smoother surface vs a cast metal impeller. Seeing as how these are non-sleeved bores, I do not see cavitation as a valid reason for going with a plastic impeller. The metal impeller pumps work great and there is no evidence they are causing any harm.

For the sticklers out there, Laso makes a water pump with a solid brass impeller which is much smoother (and probably stronger) than the cast metal ones. As far as strength goes however, any metal impeller will do.

The important thing to remember here is that ANY water pump can fail at any time, and it is important to regularly give them a visual inspection. Any water pump that weeps coolant needs to be replaced. There have been cases of Graf, Hepu and Laso pumps having failures...however as a general rule they are very good units. Anything with a Meyle brand name should be avoided. They are fine for bushings, tie rods, ball joints etc...but anything they make with a sealed bearing should be avoided.
 
#20 ·
A plastic impeller becomes brittle with time and if it fails it will usually come apart. When that happens the little plastic pieces can migrate throughout the block and create stoppages in the coolant passages. Metal impeller pumps don't have that problem when they fail.
 
#21 ·
I'm leaning toward water pump as well. Had this happen to me and the plastic impeller was just little nubs. Who knows where the actual pieces ended up. Stupid design - too much plastic on these (and many other makes) newer cars. The heart valve is the same - mine was leaking and I replaced it.

As someone mentioned, if you're doing the water pump you might as well do the timing belt, and since the coolant is out anyway, you might as well do the thermostat at the same time.

Definitely get a water pump with a metal impeller.
 
#22 ·
Agree 100% with the Metal Water Pump.
I don't understand how VW installs those, my guess is to A: Save money, and B: Have the costumer return to the dealer.
I have personally experience the plastic water pump disintegrated into little pieces. Never would i install a plastic one, i cant understand why would VW recommend the plastic one :confused: maybe because it's the only one they have in stock in their Parts Supply Dep.:rolleyes:
 
#23 · (Edited)
I just got a 2000 1.8 turbo NB that is doing the same thing! My husband got it in Florida for me, drove it to Indiana (it's about 1000 miles) took to a shop there (in Florida) and they changed the timing belt but did not change the water pump. The first time the temperature light started to blink, it started after about I drove it for 10 miles. Stopped, let the car cool off, added some coolant and took it back home. At home, my husband left the car on for 40 minutes and NO LIGHT blinkng. he took it for a ride (enough to significantly warm the engine), NO LIGHT AGAIN. I turn the car on 2 days later and no light. Friday we took it to a mechanic specialized in german cars here in Indianapolis and he says if it is the water pump, he is going to have to do the service of a timing belt, which at his shop costs around US$1200. Do you guys think the price is fair? Please stook36, post any updates on your problem...I'm really upset about this (I love this car)
 
#24 ·
$1200 is steep even for a TDI belt change which has more parts and requires special tools and procedures.
 
#25 ·
#26 ·
Definitely will put a metal impeller...I'm thinking about checking Volkswagen to see how much they charge for a service like that, but I don't want them to put the original water pump since it's just a cheap plastic junk that's going to break easily.
 
#27 ·
VW is going to:
A) charge you far more than necessary to change it
and
B) put in a pump with a plastic impeller

Find yourself a good local shop that won't charge you $1200. Its true, to get to the water pump, you need to take off the timing belt, which is why both of them are usually done at the same time. Just makes sense. $1200 is way too much for that. I paid $450 for mine on my 2.0. You should pay no more than $600 really. VW will probably want $700-800 for the service.