Hey all,

I just picked up a '00 New Beetle, 2.0L with 102.5K miles. Its been sitting in a driveway for the last 8 months, and this was making me sad. The first on a laundry list of issues I'm having with it (expect to be hearing a lot from me), is the A/C compressor will not kick on. Following along with the advice posted by huntr7 from this thread... http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-0-liter-gas/43167-how-check-c-compressor.html



The two fans behind the radiator are engaging when the AC and ignition switchs are on, whether the engine is on or off. Checked for voltage to the compressor, at the connector it reads 9.5V. Checked the green fuses for continuity, they all checked out. I didn't pull the battery to look at the fan control module, but instead placed 12V inline to the +V side of the connector and verified the ground on the other end. The clutch failed to engage when I put 12V to it.

The part that is perplexing is the voltage to the connector. 9.5V is at the connector *all of the time*. Engine on/off, key in/out. I'm guessing this shouldn't be and my fan control module is to blame, but I'm a new new-beetle owner so I thought I should ask.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I'm sure you'll hear from me again soon!

Other upcoming tasks for you to look forward to
CEL codes: P1565, P0141, P0139, P1255, P0140 (Pending)
Intake (waiting on my new VAG-COM cable to arrive)
Shocks
Brakes
Tune Up
Exhaust

How is the freon? If there isn't any freon, the compressor won't come on.

 

I have an a/c manifold. Without the a/c compressor engaging, what pressures should I be looking for to see if there is R-134a in the system?

 

Here is an incomplete list of maintenance you will need to address with those miles.

Timing Belt/Water pump and Tensioner. The timing belt is very robust but has a limited life of about 100,000 miles. The oem water pump however is extremely fragile and has been known to fail as early as 20,000 miles. You can order a complete kit from OEM / Performance Parts for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Mini, Porsche & Volkswagen - ECS Tuning Audi Parts - Vw Parts - Audi Parts Vw Parts Specialist Blauparts or www.germanautoparts.com for a very reasonable fee and they include either the updated plastic impeller (much stronger than original) or the metal pump. These are critical to insure a long life.

3.5mm silicone vacuum lines. German vehicles in general love running natural rubber and cloth vacuum lines. While they appear to be very high quality the cotton wicks moisture out of the rubber and causes them to dry out especially fast. They also do a spectacular job of hiding vacuum leaks which will set of almost any kind of CEL you can imagine. This should be on you "must do" list. I do this every 40,000 miles and use only top shelf silicone tubing and purchase new T fittings at the same time. It will cost you an hour of your time and a crisp $20. No excuse to not do this.

Brake fluid/ clutch fluid. The clutch shares the brake fluid so if you are noticing any sort of rough shifting it's most likely the fluid getting water laden. You will need to bleed it from both the master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder to insure all the air is removed. Another hour of your time and another crisp $20.

If you have an automatic get the fluid changed every 20,000 to 40,000 miles regardless of what any shop or VW tells you. The 01m is a robust transmission with too little fluid and not enough cooling. Allowing the fluid to stay in there for too long WILL ruin the $5000 transmission in a hurry.

These are the imparitives... the rest is optional or as it breaks. Oh and have fun. These little cars are a real blast when cared for properly and can go many hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

Timing Belt/Water pump and Tensioner. The timing belt is very robust but has a limited life of about 100,000 miles.

Timing belt was replaced 8K miles/18 months ago, so hopefully I will be good there!

The oem water pump however is extremely fragile and has been known to fail as early as 20,000 miles.

I'm not sure what they replaced the water pump with, this was a german mechanic who used a Conti timing belt, so he may have went aftermarket on the water pump. I know that it was replaced.

3.5mm silicone vacuum lines. German vehicles in general love running natural rubber and cloth vacuum lines. While they appear to be very high quality the cotton wicks moisture out of the rubber and causes them to dry out especially fast. They also do a spectacular job of hiding vacuum leaks which will set of almost any kind of CEL you can imagine. This should be on you "must do" list. I do this every 40,000 miles and use only top shelf silicone tubing and purchase new T fittings at the same time. It will cost you an hour of your time and a crisp $20. No excuse to not do this.

Will add this to the list, is there a writeup on this? A quick search turned up... http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-0-liter-gas/19640-vacuum-lines.html

Brake fluid/ clutch fluid. The clutch shares the brake fluid so if you are noticing any sort of rough shifting it's most likely the fluid getting water laden. You will need to bleed it from both the master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder to insure all the air is removed. Another hour of your time and another crisp $20.

The method I've used for my Saturn is remove old fluid with a bulb syringe from the brake fluid reservoir, replace with new fluid. Repeat every 12K miles, the fluid circulates fairly well in my Saturn. Will this work with a Beetle?

If you have an automatic get the fluid changed every 20,000 to 40,000 miles regardless of what any shop or VW tells you. The 01m is a robust transmission with too little fluid and not enough cooling. Allowing the fluid to stay in there for too long WILL ruin the $5000 transmission in a hurry.

Does this need to be done at a shop with a specialized machine or can I do this on my own? Is the ATF filter replacement interval the same?

These are the imparitives... the rest is optional or as it breaks. Oh and have fun. These little cars are a real blast when cared for properly and can go many hundreds of thousands of miles.

Thanks much for the advice, I will certainly do these things! I was a little afraid of driving this car, but it made it from Buffalo to Raleigh without a hiccup. I felt like a proud new father!

My current project has been sitting 2 years and I am looking forward to getting it on the road.

Remember good things come to those who wait.

If you really want to be a DIY'er I recommend that you the New Beetle DVD Manual. You will then have all the repair resources that you need.

I will look into picking up this manual, thanks for the link!

 

Hey all,

I just picked up a '00 New Beetle, 2.0L with 102.5K miles. Its been sitting in a driveway for the last 8 months, and this was making me sad...

My current project has been sitting 2 years and I am looking forward to getting it on the road.

Remember good things come to those who wait.

If you really want to be a DIY'er I recommend that you the New Beetle DVD Manual. You will then have all the repair resources that you need.

 

Awesome! I'm in North Raleigh off of Glenwood. Finishing up my Masters at NCSU this semester

If you need a good local shop, let me know and I can tell you who to call.

 

VAG-COM cable came yesterday, I've been playing with it today. Here's the diagnostics it ran. Any help would be appreciated!

-Joe



VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S


Chassis Type: 9C - VW Beetle
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,19,26,35,46,54,56

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 06A 906 018 JN
Component: 2.0l R4/2V MOTR AT V01
Coding: 00033
Shop #: WSC 08152
8 Faults Found:
16525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2: Heating Circuit Malfunction
P0141 - 35-00 - -
16522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2: Signal too High
P0138 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0303 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16523 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2: Response too Slow
P0139 - 35-00 - -
17977 - Cruise Control Switch (E45): Implausible Signal
P1569 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17987 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Adaptation Not Started
P1579 - 35-00 - -
17973 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Lower Stop not Reached
P1565 - 35-00 - -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans
Controller: 01M 927 733 HM
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4604
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes
Controller: 1J0 907 379 P
Component: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001
Coding: 03504
Shop #: WSC 00066
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Skipping Address 15-Airbags

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments
Controller: 1C0 920 901
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 V07
Coding: 03202
Shop #: WSC 00000
Ident.-Nr. Wegfahrs.:VWZ5Z0Y2022350
3 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01315 - Transmission Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01316 - ABS Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway
Controller: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN V072
Coding: 00007
Shop #: WSC 00066
3 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01315 - Transmission Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01316 - ABS Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.
Controller: 1J0 959 799 AJ
Component: 5X Zentral-SG Komf. 0001
Coding: 00256
Shop #: WSC 00066
5 Faults Found:
00849 - S-contact at Ignition/Starter Switch (D)
25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror: Driver Side (Z4)
35-00 - -
01358 - Internal Central Locking Switch: Driver Side (E150)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module: Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00944 - Heated Exterior Mirror: Passenger Side (Z5)
35-00 - -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio
Controller: 1C0 035 180 E
Component: RADIO 3CP 0001
Coding: 00401
Shop #: WSC 00066
No fault code found.

End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Tried to do an alignment following these instructions...
Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Throttle Body Alignment

The following 4 screengrabs are the only data I get during the process...

Does this mean I need a TB cleaning or a new TB? Thanks!

-Joe

 

Update!

Well, its been a busy month...

Replaced throttle body with one I got from a junkyard. See http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-0-lit.../2-0-liter-gas/50254-throttle-body-high-pitched-squeal-misfires.html#post735745

The throttle body I replaced it with was making a very high pitched squeal at almost all RPM. I also got some troubling codes about misfires on cylinders 1 and 3. I replaced the gasket and still had no luck. I then replaced the throttle body with one I purchased from eBay, the TB was able to calibrate with VAG-COM. The code cleared.

The remaining code thrown for the check engine light was low voltage on the B1S2 oxygen sensor. Since the car has 103K, I decided to just replace both. My lawwwd, those sensors put up a fight. 2 impact wrenches, a 18" breaker bar... no love, despite having the proper O2 sensor removal tool. Before giving in to using some heat/PB blaster, I used a small cheater bar with the breaker bar - probably around 250-300ft-lbs of torque. That finally got them loose. Replaced sensors for new ones with a liberal amount of anti-seize on the threads.

Cleared the codes, 150 miles later, no check engine light!

The last issue, the topic of this thread, I had admittedly been putting off. After getting my freon properly disposed of, then refilling with fresh freon, then getting *that* disposed of, I gave up and bought a new compressor on eBay. Again, the fans kick on, there 9V on the lead to the compressor, there's freon in the system, but the clutch won't engage. Tonight I started replacing the compressor. Removed the belt, tensioner, alternator (generator), and then the old compressor. Those allen bolts on the suction/pressure lines put up quite a fight.

Replaced the compressor and drier, connected all the lines, put vacuum on, couldn't hold. Traced the problem to a wrong sized o-ring right on the low-pressure line (luckily within easy access). Replaced that with the right sized one. Pulled a vacuum for 45 minutes, it stuck. Refilled the system with freon, the compressor clutch kicked on... it was beautiful. Drove home with the a/c on max (never mind that it was 75F out )

So, to summarize, in a month...
1) Joined the forum (exceptionally useful) $0
2) Purchased the Bentley manual (fairly useful) $90
3) Replaced air filter $15
4) Replaced vacuum lines (and later one that I broke under the intake manifold, the hard plastic one) $13
5) Replaced throttle body (twice) $30, $130
6) Changed oil, used Mobil-1 0W-40 $30
7) Replaced oxygen sensors (PITA) $77, $60
8) Fixed a/c just in time for summer (quite proud of that one) $200
9) Put gas in it a few times >$100,000 at this rate...

Still to be done...
1) Figure out the springing sound in the pass-side front suspension. Thinking of replacing the front sway bar links, fixed that problem on my Saturn.
2) Replace front wheel bearings
3) Brake/Rotor job
4) Replace Pass-side foglight
5) Fix rear taillight (saving the best for last)
6) Pass inspection
7) Cosmetic fixes as I go: some rust along the side, fractures in plastic fascia pieces.

Thanks to all the members who provided feedback, it was *greatly* appreciated. I love this car, and the journey we've been on in the last month!

If anyone in Raleigh, NC and points local needs my VAG-COM, my rate is 4 beers an hour... although, the quality of work diminishes rapidly. :-D

 

Still to be done...
1) Figure out the springing sound in the pass-side front suspension. Thinking of replacing the front sway bar links, fixed that problem on my Saturn.
2) Replace front wheel bearings
3) Brake/Rotor job
4) Replace Pass-side foglight
5) Fix rear taillight (saving the best for last)
6) Pass inspection
7) Cosmetic fixes as I go: some rust along the side, fractures in plastic fascia pieces.

More updates!!!

Finished the bearings/suspension on the front end of the car today. It was one of those jobs that came in on-budget but *waaaay* delayed. Everytime I pulled something off of the front end, something else was found to be broken. So... from the top...

For the bearing... took a 3ft. breaker bar to the axle nuts, wouldn't budge. Added a 3ft cheater bar. Broke the cheater bar and gave up before breaking the breaker bar. Took it to my fire dept where there is an air compressor, hit it with my 1/2" impact. Wouldn't budge. Went to Harbor Freight, bought this, hit the axle nuts with it [whack, whack, VROOM]... my jaw literally dropped. Tightened the nuts back down to below superman-levels and brought it home.

Jacked the front end up, where it stayed for about 3 weeks. Pulled the calipers, rotors, got to the hub. The tie-rod ends were so rusted that I couldn't pull the nut from the hub. Took a saws-all to tie rod where it connects to the hub (lesson to-be-learned later, read on for LULZ). Took the driver's side hub off without using the convenient strut spreader tool (i.e. lots of PB Blaster, hitting with a cross-peen, and cursing). Repeated with passenger's side, found the source of the "springing sound"...

Suspension... The spring on the front pass. strut had snapped, broke free of the upper-spring mount and was rubbing against the frame. As the top of the spring would drag while turning it would make a guitar strumming sound. Decided to pull both strut assemblies (100K+ miles, duh). Pulled out the Bentley, removed the wipers and windshield cowl to access the top strut mounts. Hit them with the impact (struts were dead anyways) and got them off. Bought a spring compressor, compressed the spring that wasn't broken and pulled from the strut. Replaced parts with Monroe Sensa-Trac struts, CarQuest Springs, Moog mounts and dust boots, and upper-strut bolt. Kept lower strut bolt, spring plate (decent condition for both). Compressed springs, assembled struts, attached to vehicle at torque specs (Bentley).

Took bearings/hubs to a CarQuest machine shop. The pass. hub was so badly warped that it needed to be replaced. Dropped $125 on a new one (with ABS), and $42 for each bearing to be pressed. Walked out of CarQuest with a little more than $200 in damage.

Tie rod ends... Obviously, I was going to need to replace the ends after having cut the bolt off from the hub. However, I didn't loosen the nut before pulling out the saws-all (I was quite frustrated and was clearly not thinking). Once I got the new hub back on the frame, I needed to improvise to get the tie rod off without it actually being connected to the hub. I ended up using a C-clamp to hold it to the knuckle while taking a 22mm wrench to the inner tie-rod nut. Lots of cursing and bruised bones later, I got the nut loosened and spun the tie-rod off (counting the revs it took to pull off). Measured the new tie-rod from Moog, it was exactly the same size, greased, and put it back on. Repeated with the other side, except that the nut on that end was a lot more stubborn. I got angry again and took the saws-all to the tie rod, just before where (I guessed) it was threaded to the inner tie-rod link. Put an impact socket on the inner nut (after cutting, it was accessable). Clamped a vice grip to the link, and braced it against the frame to stop the link from spinning, and hit the nut with an impact. Eventually (after some cursing/screaming), it came free, and I spun the pass. side tie rod end off counting the revs.

Put the axle-nuts on, tightened down a bit. Dropped the car, used the Bentley recommended procedure for tightening the axle nuts... With weight on the wheels, tighten axle nut to 148ft lbs, loosen half-turn, tighten 37ft lbs and then one-sixth of a turn. This differed from Bentley alternate and the forum bearing DIY (221ft. lbs, loosen full turn, tighten 37ft lbs and then one-12th of a turn).

The brakes... The front brakes were replaced without a problem. I didn't have the tool to rotate in the piston while pressing for the rear brakes, so had to head off to Harbor Freight again. The rear brakes were so bad that when I pulled the parking brake it came all the way up with no tension. I thought I had snapped a cable, upon inspection, the adjusting screw was so far off and the pads were so worn that the cable slipped off the parking brake handle. Replacing the pads and tensioning the adjustment screw got the parking brake repaired.

Took the car for a ride around the block. Aside from desperately needing an alignment, it rides great! Despite my best efforts to put the tie-rods exactly where they were, the steering wheel is held about 1/6th of a turn to the left to drive in a straight line.

Once the temp drops below 90F, I'll hit the back suspension (looks a lot easier). Barring any further ridiculousness, we should be in an alignment shop tomorrow afternoon!

Thanks for all the help!

 

I had gone through the post. To solve the problem or to make it nor exists all the time, We have to check the ground side of the clutch connector. If it is grounded, read across the clutch coil connector with the harness line unplugged. It should read around 10 ohms ,perhaps more. If it shows no reading or in a really high resistance, the clutch coil is open. we can replace the clutch coil with out removing the refrigerant hoses if necessary. We will just need a special puller tool from just about any store.