bump.


if anyone has some pictures of the hoses that i should be checking/replacing i would be eternally grateful.

i have yet to be able to find anything that shows exactly what hoses i need to be looking at.

 

the noise

The "vacuum" noise is the secondary air pump, it runs for about 30 seconds to help heat up the cat, what you are looking for are the two HARD PLASTIC lines running from the SAI pump to the airbox, if I remember right the larger one runs to the airbox. I had the same codes as you. Both lines looked good, the o rings looked good, but i replaced them both cleared the codes, and no issues..........good luck

 

so just the two hard plastic tubes then?

did you get new ones from the dealer or just make your own?

also, i knew about the SAI pump, but that goes away after like 30 secs.

the hiss i was talking about is coming from back and to the left of the engine bay.

i hear absolutely no air noises coming from the right side of the engine bay, where those hoses are, and where the SAIS pump is.

but when i get home, i'm cleaning the MAF, and seeing how much those hoses will run me to replace.

 

if someone wouldn't mind posting a pic of all the hoses associated with the SAIS labeled, i wouldn't mind giving you my first born.

 

Why for do you threaten me with your offspring? I don't want children!!!

 

I'm rebuilding my '00 1.8T head and I have a pic of the SAP with its connecting hoses and the DIY for removing it, read post #2 in this thread.

 

awesome thread.

you win the children, if they ever exist.

i'll ship them fed-ex.

on the hose thing.... do those hoses (#6 and #7) have to be replaced with ones from the dealer, or are they basically just vacuum hoses that i can make replacements for?

also i thought there was a third hose, at least from the research i've been doing.

but i'm probably wrong.

 

my DEQ emissions testing rant and P1424 code

great thread thanks for the info everyone.

My car has been throwing out the P1424... code (leak in the secondary air injection system) for 6 or so years now. Mechanics have inspected the relevant parts several times and found there was no problem with the parts. Thay said it was the sensor that was malfunctioning. I go to the DEQ today to renew my registration and they won't allow a renewal with my computer sending out the code! Even after I explained to them that the parts have been inspected and are working correctly, state law does not allow cars to pass with codes in the memory. Law won't allow them to hook up to my exhaust to test it that way either. (Which is ridiculous because they should be able to tell they way. They do it on any pre 1996 car.) So basically I am going to have to spend thousands of dollars on my perfectly functioning car to replace my computer/ sensors just to make a light go away.

As far as I'm concerned, the DEQ test was not really an emissions test, it was a test to see if my computer was compatable with thiers. It's a flawed system because the legislation is working under the assumption that the eletrical systems in a car are infallable, when in acutality they can fail just like any of the mechanical parts can. (And whats worse is that eletrical problems are much more diffcult to track down than mechanical ones). I'm sure there are lots of perfectly functioning cars out there wasting away because couldn't pass the test for some stupid electrical reason. All of this in the end just works in the favor of the car companies by encouraging consumerisium and waste of useable materials. Which is against the entire point of environmental contols like DEQ!

 

Get the codes cleared, either at a shop or by disconnecting the batters. How soon does the light come back on? Might be enough to pass...

Kate

 

thanks for the advice. We went ahead and disconected the battery tonight, and hopefully that will clear it long enough to pass the test. I did get the code cleared at an auto shop a few days ago but the CEL came back on after 2 days. Maybe the disconecting the battery will make the computer happier.

 

If its throwing a code, there is a reason. And if its not fixed, the light will continue to come back on. Its not the ECU, I can tell you that right now.

Its going to be a leak in your piping somewhere:

17832/P1424/005156 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 1: Leak Detected
Possible Symptoms

* Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active

Possible Causes

* Piping between Secondary Air Injection Pump and Secondary Air Injection Valve leaking

Possible Solutions

* Check Piping between Secondary Air Injection Pump and Secondary Air Injection Valve



Are the mechanics who are working on the car VW mechanics? If not, I'd find a reputable VW shop who is more familiar with the car and will be better able to help solve your problem.

 

I agree the fault must be there somewhere but you also need it to be registered to get it somewhere to fix it! Catch 22! It might be that the readiness won't pass, I know here in NV we need that too but mine was throwing lights for the previous owner, he had pipework replaced and the light hadn't come back, I had it 'smogged' and the light came back a couple of days later. The SAP was seized so it's not that a new fault occurred but it got passed!

If you need a new pump and it's an APH there are 2 part nos that work and I just got new rubber mounts too, total $15.50 for 3 inc shipping from Rockauto sold as BMW parts as opposed to $20 EACH for the VW ones (about $17 each online) LMK and I'll dig out the numbers! Total cost for a new pump and mounts & shipping (2 sources) $76.50 and a crate of beer for my husband to fit

Kate

 

thanks again for the advice you guys. yeah my registration expired yesterday. . . bummer. we disconnected the battery last night and the light is off but will have to wait and see if it comes back on when the computer goes back into readiness. do you guys know if can i get a ticket for driving it back to DEQ with expired registration ?


smileybug- the hoses you are talking about are those no 6 and 7 in then picture on this thread

lil smartie- what does "smogged" mean and what does "the SAP was seized" also what does APH and nos mean. what pump are you referring to?

"If you need a new pump and it's an APH there are 2 part nos that work and I just got new rubber mounts too, total $15.50 for 3 inc shipping from Rockauto sold as BMW parts as opposed to $20 EACH for the VW ones (about $17 each online) LMK and I'll dig out the numbers! Total cost for a new pump and mounts & shipping (2 sources) $76.50 and a crate of beer for my husband to fit"


thanks!

 

APH is the engine code.

Smogged = emissions test in NV

nos - numbers

SAP - Secondary air injection pump, mine physically wouldn't spin freely

Kate

 

fixed it! my CEL went away and I passed emissions

I fixed the problem! It was not a computer issue after all. On the hose that connects the air filter to the airpump there was a gap in the seal. Not surpising considering that it's probably been yanked on a bunch of times when the air filter gets replaced. I made temporary seals with electrical tape at the connections. Also I found that one of the pins that holds the air filter together was just hanging and it seemed like there was a gap there too. I replaced it with a size 8/32 1.5" screw and a rubber gasket (figured that might help the vibrations from loosening the nut.)

Yay! my car passed emissions with a little electrical tape and a 20 cent screw from the hardware store

thanks everyone for your help